Xenons

[CatmanV2]

Are the xenons meant to do something when turned on (apart from lighting up, of course). I seem to recall that they are supposed to sweep up and down?

I know mine are way too low, and Ill be looking to adjust then ASAP, but was wondering if there's going to be more work to pass an MOT if tey are not self levelling?

TIA

C

 

[BennyD]

There is a very recent thread on this very subject. I am sure someone will be along to point you in the right direction.

 

[conaero]

Here you go:

http://www.sportsmaserati.co.uk/showthread.php/2125-Gransport-Xenon-Headlight-Adjustment

If you look at my post 26 the levels are set by the sensors on each of the front and rear wishbones, dont know which side.

Basically, the brackets brake or the rod to the sensor snaps. They are about £65 each but you can buy the brackets separately too.

So if one is broken, it gives the xenons a false level. You can adjust the headlights but this does not fix the root of the cause, you are better to fix this, then the light levels will fix themselves.

Normal procedure is upon turning on the lights, they should sweep up then down then set at the correct level.

 

[CatmanV2]

Right, I get it. In fact a thread I posted to!

Looks like it's possible to check the connecting rods with the wheels off.

Should give me something to do if the weather is OK over the break

C

 

[Dan!]

That reminds me Matt, yours were blinding me in the mirrior on the way to Marlow.
You may want to lower them a tad.

 

[BennyD]

A lot of the time it's the squat under acceleration. Mine are level when cruising but lift a lot when giving it some.

 

[conaero]

That reminds me Matt, yours were blinding me in the mirrior on the way to Marlow.
You may want to lower them a tad.

Yep, they have the same fault but way too high, Ill fix them over xmas.

 

[safrane]

All Xenon [HID] light systems will, if faulty, default to the low 'safe' setting, I suspect this is your issue.

The level motors at the rear of the lenses can strip the 'worm screws' of their threads and stop the items working. These are likly to be standard items made by the same co as all other lights.

The two sensors on the suspension can also jam preventing [rear] detecting squat load and weight in the rear, [front] acceleration lift and the front lifts when you put the foot down...simply they keep the lights at a steady level to prevent dazzling other road users.

When you switch the lights on they should do a self test, full hight, low level, and then the correct calibrated level

 

[CatmanV2]

Thanks Safrane. I'll take a look at the sensors first, I think.

Anyone know motor specs / replacements?

C

 

[safrane]

http://www.eurospares.co.uk/partTable.asp?M=3&Mo=389&A=2&B=20989&S=

You should be able to remove the lense motors and check the part number on the net. If it is the worms, they are common to all the units even the manual ones.

 

[CatmanV2]

Cheers.

I assume this is part 27?

Let's hope it's the sensors, since both are stationary.

C

 

[CatmanV2]

Evidence mounts. If I have the lights turned to on when I switch on the ignition, I see the lights sweep up and down. They don't quite go all the way to the bottom, but it's close. This would seem to indicate that the motors are OK (both lights move, and at the same rate)
So at a guess either
1) One or both sensors / brackets / link rods have broken
2) They simply need adjusting.

For the assembled wisdom: If I find nothing obvious when I whip the wheels off, can we assume busted sensor? Moving on to question 2) Should moving the sensors by hand result in observable movement on the lights?

Cheers

C

 

[safrane]

2) Should moving the sensors by hand result in observable movement on the lights?

Cheers

C

Yes it should.

There is also a posting on here on how to adjust the base setting of the lights so they go to a correct start level...think one of our Oz members posted it.

 

[conaero]

Indeed Peter, but I do feel he adjusted his lights due to a busted sensor, so he is only masking the underlying fault. I would get it through the MOT I suppose.


[video=youtube;EJIot1IAQm0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJIot1IAQm0[/video]

 

[CatmanV2]

Yep saw the video. There seems little point (other than being able to actually *see*).

Adjusting past the broken sensors is definitely a 'B' plan. The current 'A' plan is to whip the wheels off, see what's obviously busted on the bracket / tie-rod / sensor front and fix. If nothing obvious, I'll get the lights up a tad so I can see, and then lob it to the Indy in 2013.

Cheers, as ever.

C

 

[CatmanV2]

Yay the forum! Front sensor tie rod snapped. Movement of the sensor arm results in the lamps moving as they should, so I've cable tied it in more sensible position while the new one comes from Eurospares.

Thanks for all the input. No idea if I can get the old one off, though. Looks well corroded.

Dremel time!

C

 

[2b1ask1]

That's a result C I must use my winter lay up time to figure if mine is the same...

 

[CatmanV2]

It's pretty easy to check, although those wheels are *heavy*!

What I'm quite surprised about is that the tie rod snaps. It's not an insubstantial piece of metal, where as the bracket and actuating arm on the sensor are pretty flimsy.
In a classic demonstration of Italian design ethics, the ball joints and other moving parts are all exposed to just about every bit of road crud, so it's not too surprising that the joints lock up.

C

 

[safrane]

I have adviced a couple of time to have these checked at leat every 6 months, cleaned and given a squirt of 3-IN-1 or WD40

 

[conaero]

Well done Cat, that means I have to do mine now.

By the way, did you not buy the brackets, I would as they are only £8 front and £6 rear.

They do snap too, so I would get them.

Item 9 (front £8) and 10 (rear £6)

http://www.eurospares.co.uk/partTable.asp?M=3&Mo=383&A=2&B=20446&S=

Oh, when they arrive, can you do some investigation and give us any numbers that appear on them or a manufacturers stamp, never know, we might be able to save a few quid.