I think the problem with leaving the F1 sensor untouched is that you would also have to leave the Thrust bearing in place, and I would not advise someone to change a clutch out of their car without changing the F1 sensor and the thrust beaing. Here is a photo that shows you where the magnet and the arm attaches to the thrust bearing:
..........which leads me to another question did you replace the throw-out bearing and the F1 position sensor when you changed the clutch? I didn't see a photo of that when you first posted or in the last photos, you just posted.
Spigot bearing............. In the photo you posted above with just the fly wheel already installed it looked like the old Spigot bearing still in the crank. Maybe the lighting is off in the photo but it looks like an old one to me. It's a $30 part and this is another thing I don't know of anyone working on these cars would of purposely left in without changing it. This is what it should look like if it were new:
I'm sorry to say this once again. The Gearbox does not self learn. Voicey already addressed the early 360's which I didn't think to mention because the NCRs are different. These cars can give you the new clutch position, which you then write into the NCR to restart the clutch wear algorithm. Alex. You absolutely can run the car with all the old settings. I'm not sure for how long before the car decides it doesn't like it but it can be done. You can change the clutch out tomorrow swap a brand new one in and run it under all the previous settings of the old clutch you took out of it.
If anyone can point out to me in any service manual that states the NCR or gear box re-writes it's own KISS point or clutch settings, whether the Duo-select Quat, the 4200/GranSport I will stand corrected.
If that was the trade secret the Porsche mechanic was speaking about, that's not a trade secret at all, that's a not following the service manual mechanic.
Which again, leaving the Spigot bearing in. It will run, just like if you just remove the bell housing and leave the F1 sensor and thrust bearing. But the only people I know that would do that is someone that doesn't work on these cars, and someone willing to gamble with both the customer's vehicle and the customer's money.
Though I definitely already question the "trade secret", I wonder if I take and put a Kevlar clutch in a car under all the old settings. Then I continue to try and run it without adjusting it. Can I burn the flywheel up enough, or glaze the friction discs enough so that is seems to slip like an OEM clutch so it will work? I don't know I've never tried it but here is what one of the Master Mechanics said that I sometimes consult with on ML:
"Pretty interesting...I wonder what magic was performed to get it to work without a proper diagnostic tool? Its been my experience, after several years of racing cars that exotic clutch materials are not as always great as they seem...I saw guys run kevlar or carbon-kevlar clutches and one thing they all had in common was nasty take up.. They were simply like an on-off switch.. It worked ok on the track, however the car was a ***** to move around slowly in the pits. These cars are fairly heavy and you need that slip to make them pleasant to drive...The by-product is the wear on the clutch...I`ll stick with OE until someone comes out with something better...Jason"