GranSport (Fuji White) Running report


Well done indeed....keep it going....nearly there!

I did wince a little seeing some of the jacking up strategies though. It was the main reason I got both a 4 post and scissor lift. Don't like the idea of nearly two tons balancing above my head on some axle stands/trolley jack.

The trolley jack shouldn't be relied on without axle stands all round. Also I'd suggest a flat plate under the base of those axle stands anyway while sitting on small blocks. I wouldn't do it personally but only thinking of your safety. You don't get a second chance!

Look after yourself


Is a cracking thread. I’ve not been on here for a while but randomly bumped into Matt at the Ace Cafe a week or two back so thought I’d pop by. I’m glad I did!

I wish I had the skills (and cajones!) to do what you’re doing. Well done.


Junior Member
Wow what a job.Well done. A great record of how to do this job. Look forward to it being complete!

Felonious Crud

Centenary Club
An excellent read. You perseverance is incredible. Good luck (and please jack safely; I was wincing and your public needs you to see this job through, not get squashed).


Following on from my last post, we used the Christmas break to finish putting the interior back together.

My Dad had taken the door card home with him for some repairs and a clean;

IMG_2474 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_2495 by Chris, on Flickr

I'm please with the way the interior cleaned up...

IMG_2493-2 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_2489 by Chris, on Flickr

There's not much to see here, but it was the final piece of the jigsaw, reconnecting the heater matrix. Which went well, no leaks and it works!

IMG_2478 by Chris, on Flickr

We also attached a more permanent connection for a trickle charger to the battery;

IMG_2497 by Chris, on Flickr

I am tempted to get on of the c-tech bluetooth battery monitors as well.

As part of the rebuild, we also upgraded the door speakers to Infinity units as the old speakers were fubar. To compliment this we also added a Dension loudlink to the OEM Becker head unit.

This was not an entirely successful exercise. the (expensive) loudlink went pop when I connected it and the upgraded front speakers highlighted the fact the rear speakers were also shot.


Which brings me to the most recent work we've undertaken.A simple upgrade of the rear speakers to compliment the fronts....

We started by removing the back seat base and support, the side panels, all the boot trim and the rear shelf.

IMG_2636 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_2638 by Chris, on Flickr

(Fuel tank is very nicely made)

IMG_2650 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_2640 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_2630 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_2632 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_2635 by Chris, on Flickr

The speakers in the parcel shelf were an odd arrangement. They aren't sealed in an enclosure and are simply housed in a bracket. As suspected, they were as ******* as the front speakers;

IMG_2658 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_2659-2 by Chris, on Flickr

The same could be said of the speakers in the side panels too.

Whilst I felt it would be too much trouble to resolve the enclosure issue for the rear shelf speakers, Father spend quite a considerable amount of time engineering a solution to fitting them and achieving this;

IMG_2701 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_2696 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_2692 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_2690 by Chris, on Flickr

I, on the other hand, ended up with the the easier task of fitting what should have been the same size (6x8") replacement speakers in the side panels. After a bit of trial and error, we found that enlarging the hole off centre was the best option;

IMG_2688 by Chris, on Flickr

Which I achieved using a flap wheel sander;

IMG_2686 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_2685 by Chris, on Flickr

And made some new fixing points using some M5 riv-nuts;

IMG_2703 by Chris, on Flickr

Handily, the speakers also came with a sealing strip meaning the new speakers have relatively well sealed enclosure

IMG_2704 by Chris, on Flickr

After spending a hour (or 3) cleaning all the debris out of the interior, we put it back together this weekend;

IMG_2710 by Chris, on Flickr

We also added a cheap bluetooth connector to the becker HU, which works well, apart from the blue tooth being on permanently. But this should be simple enough to resolve.

The end result was also worth the effort, the sound quality and volume is now comparable with the Bose system in my GTA.


That’s coming along. If you’ve still got it apart might be worth checking the seal round the fuel filler, I had a leak there.


Engine Management light has made, to a certain extent, an anticipated appearance.

I've been having trouble with it starting when it's hot. Not all the time though. When it does present as an issue, it's definitely because it has flooded. Exhaust smells strongly of petrol and holding the throttle down whilst it's cranking usually helps it spring into life on 4 cylinders then 6, then 8...

In addition, the high speed fans have been running from a cold start up meaning the engine doesn't get up to temperature. Again, like the hot starting, it is intermittent.

I was sure that the 2 problems were related. I checked the fault code and it has just the 1, P0128 - Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature.

Clearing it resulted in the high speed fans turning off. It's also the high speed fans that are keeping the coolant temp low, not the stat as when they're off it gets up to 90 deg and stays there.

However, I would also imagine that the stat stays closed until the engine is up to temperature then opens allowing the colder coolant in the radiator to circulate, so my logic could be flawed.

I've also checked the live data and the engine coolant temp climbs and corresponds with the dash temp, so I don't think there is a problem with the sensor. Although I'm not ruling this out either as some sensors have two circuits - one for the engine ecu and one feeding the gauge. The code reader could be picking up the signal from the gauge I guess.

I've bought a temp sensor and I'm going to see if replacing it changes anything.

Beyond that I'm thinking it may be a problem with the relay controlling the high speed fans / bodged wiring to them.


A few things spring to mind. Firstly you probably have a faulty fan speed resistor, hence the high fan speed. Secondary the hot start problem is probably the carbon canister or vapour purge valve. The two issues are most likely not related.

The coolant sensor is a single output item. @Mr S has found an alternative part I believe.


I have the exact same issues.
Having read about these faults on this forum before I have changed both the coolant temp sensor and the fan resistor. The resistor was all corroded along with the two connectors. The wiring to the temp sensor was oil soaked so I have been cleaning up and re wrapping the loom. Due to the current situation I have got carried away stripping, cleaning and rustproofing the car so haven't got it back in a state to test it yet.


A few things spring to mind. Firstly you probably have a faulty fan speed resistor, hence the high fan speed. Secondary the hot start problem is probably the carbon canister or vapour purge valve. The two issues are most likely not related.

The coolant sensor is a single output item. @Mr S has found an alternative part I believe.
Hi Zep, thanks again for your input, which I do value.

A faulty resistor would make sense, I've come across this with various Alfa's, not made the connection though.

I've also considered the vapour purge valve and tried ordering one, only to find they're NLA. I expect there's an alfa equivalent part but I've not looked into this in any detail.

Thought the temp sensor would be a single circuit, thanks for confirming this. Although this is a problem as it might indicate a wiring fault.

I'm not inclined to dismiss the problems as not being related though. They (hot starting and high speed fans) only appear in tandem, never alone. Something is triggering the fans AND causing the ecu to overfill the engine (cold start choke) on a hot start.


Fair enough, see how you get in.

It might well just be the carbon canister rather than the valve anyway, has you changed it recently? Does the hot start problem occur after you have filled up the car or all of the time?