GranSport (Fuji White) Running report

TimR

Member
Messages
1,624
Nice one...You beat me to it...

Purge valves NLA? Really....where did you try ?

I've swapped out coolant temp sensor and carbon canister firstly..
....followed by purge valve and crank sensor.
I didnt have fan issues...
 

Oneball

Member
Messages
4,032
I reckon they’ll be a manufacturer’s part number on the purge valve somewhere, have a close look I bet it’s shared with loads of stuff.
 

TimR

Member
Messages
1,624
How easy did you find the crank sensor to change?
It was a job I had done last year when the ARBs were fitted and brake lines remade @McGrath Maserati.
One of the reasons I farmed it out was because I dont have a lift, and access from above is poor. There was significant corrosion around the sensor, and this was raising it, out of factory spec position - whether or not it was "the " fix I couldnt say for certain...
There's nothing too tricky about them apart from getting access. Isnt that always the way with cars...?!?! :hammer:
 

spn

Junior Member
Messages
74
I checked the fault code and it has just the 1, P0128 - Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature.
Mine throws a similar fault but without the CEL.

When the code is stored, it puts the car into a sort of limp mode (disregards the sensor?) where the fans run at high speed and the throttle response and gear changes aren't as good as normal. It usually happens in the winter when the car has been stood for a few hours and then started again.

Deleting the stored code restores normal behaviour.

I suspect it's the temperature sensor and maybe the thermostat, which I'll hopefully get around to changing soon when I do the heater matrix.

Cheers,

Simon
 

sparkplug155

Member
Messages
111
I have never had a CEL either. I did hook my live data reader to see what coolant temps I was throwing up after I had cleared the faults as my temp gauge always seemed a little low. Coolant temp was showing around the 90 deg mark although the gauge reading just below 80. My resistor and connectors can be seen below6829368294
 

Chris155

Member
Messages
166
Fair enough, see how you get in.

It might well just be the carbon canister rather than the valve anyway, has you changed it recently? Does the hot start problem occur after you have filled up the car or all of the time?

Not changed the canister, never had cause to on any car I've had as they seem reliable.

Hot start problem doesn't appear to be related to being filled with fuel.
 

Chris155

Member
Messages
166
The wash valve is in stock with Eurospares - 180861.

Worth ruling that out for £20 + the dreaded.

Nice one...You beat me to it...

Purge valves NLA? Really....where did you try ?

I've swapped out coolant temp sensor and carbon canister firstly..
....followed by purge valve and crank sensor.
I didnt have fan issues...
I ordered one from eurospares just before christmas IIRC , and they emailed me saying it was NLA.
 

Chris155

Member
Messages
166
Mine throws a similar fault but without the CEL.

When the code is stored, it puts the car into a sort of limp mode (disregards the sensor?) where the fans run at high speed and the throttle response and gear changes aren't as good as normal. It usually happens in the winter when the car has been stood for a few hours and then started again.

Deleting the stored code restores normal behaviour.

I suspect it's the temperature sensor and maybe the thermostat, which I'll hopefully get around to changing soon when I do the heater matrix.

Cheers,

Simon
Yep, I think mine is going into a limp mode too. In fact you've pretty much described the symptoms mine has. It's difficult to drive when it's cold, which coupled with cold pilot sport cup+ tyres has lead to some interesting moments.
 

Chris155

Member
Messages
166
I have never had a CEL either. I did hook my live data reader to see what coolant temps I was throwing up after I had cleared the faults as my temp gauge always seemed a little low. Coolant temp was showing around the 90 deg mark although the gauge reading just below 80. My resistor and connectors can be seen belowView attachment 68293View attachment 68294

The connections and resistor look like they're the standard 156 v6 parts that fail in the same way. The resistor falls off it's soldered connections and the wiring harness connectors always corrode like the ones in your pic.
 

Chris155

Member
Messages
166
What is the obsession with the carbon canister? I assume it'll be an Alfa part or something similar and we (my Dad and I) have never had an issue with one in the last 20 years and over 40 Alfa's?
 

spkennyuk

Member
Messages
4,683
What is the obsession with the carbon canister? I assume it'll be an Alfa part or something similar and we (my Dad and I) have never had an issue with one in the last 20 years and over 40 Alfa's?
Im not sure they were fitted on anything before an alfa 156.

It basically filters some toxic emission back through the fuel system. However if you get a crack in the canister or it gets clogged it will effect the performance of the car as the fuel air ratio will be messed up. Bad cases will result in a CEL.


Post 13 on the thread below will help if you need to go down that path.

 
Last edited:

Zep

Administrator
Messages
4,555
What is the obsession with the carbon canister? I assume it'll be an Alfa part or something similar and we (my Dad and I) have never had an issue with one in the last 20 years and over 40 Alfa's?
It’s not an obsession, it’s born from experience.

It’s basically a box filled with activated carbon that absorbs and stores fuel vapour from the tank (mostly, but not always, when filling up) and this is then let back into the engine by the wash / purge valve.

Over time the carbon gets saturated and it doesn’t store the vapour as well, resulting in a big slug of very rich fuel vapour being dumped into the engine at startup which makes it seem flooded.

No, it isn’t an Alfa part, OEM only sadly.
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,679
What is the obsession with the carbon canister? I assume it'll be an Alfa part or something similar and we (my Dad and I) have never had an issue with one in the last 20 years and over 40 Alfa's?
HR Owen recently had a number advertised on eBay for approx. £100

Some further reading from Mr Voice:

Including refilling - which I may try when mine is changed.
Reasonably certain the canister top can be removed more cleanly and resealed.
But, then, for such a small saving is it worth the bother.
 

spn

Junior Member
Messages
74
Yep, I think mine is going into a limp mode too. In fact you've pretty much described the symptoms mine has. It's difficult to drive when it's cold, which coupled with cold pilot sport cup+ tyres has lead to some interesting moments.
Probably the same issue then.

It also tends to run a bit rich on startup when the fault is present (again makes sense to over fuel if you cant get an accurate temperature reading), although I don't have any issues starting.

I did have hot starting issues a while ago which was down to the crank angle sensor.
 

Chris155

Member
Messages
166
It’s not an obsession, it’s born from experience.

It’s basically a box filled with activated carbon that absorbs and stores fuel vapour from the tank (mostly, but not always, when filling up) and this is then let back into the engine by the wash / purge valve.

Over time the carbon gets saturated and it doesn’t store the vapour as well, resulting in a big slug of very rich fuel vapour being dumped into the engine at startup which makes it seem flooded.

No, it isn’t an Alfa part, OEM only sadly.

For the record, I knew what it does and how it works. I just don't understand why the users here are so quick to suggest it's the problem. My experience of them is that they rarely fail. Is it a know failure point on the 4200?
 

Zep

Administrator
Messages
4,555
For the record, I knew what it does and how it works. I just don't understand why the users here are so quick to suggest it's the problem. My experience of them is that they rarely fail. Is it a know failure point on the 4200?

Yes, that’s why we have been suggesting it.
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,679
Supposed to be changed every 4 years minimum:

68457

How many are? How many changed on a mileage basis and how many changed when the "hot start" issue flares up.
 

Evo Cymru

Member
Messages
616
I replaced mine a few years ago as a precaution as I was unsure when, if it all, it had been changed (they were cheaper then!) although the car was running fine. You’re welcome to have the old one to test if you wish?
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,679
Me? Very kind offer good sir if so! Mine was changed 3 years ago and have a new one ready to go in.
As and when I was planning on looking at the existing one. A heat gun, acetone (maybe), and a scalpel should open the canister.
Replacement charcoal is easy enough to get hold of and weighing in the same amount would be a good idea.
Obviously resealing to ensure vacuum pressure would also be needed. Was thinking PVC cement would work.