Change those F1 relays!

CatmanV2

CatmanV2

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It's a relay. 'Right' is overegging the issue.

Jluis, I'd look for something more like 60-80A. Can't recall what the OEM rating is, but in this case bigger cannot hurt.

C
 
jluis

jluis

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CatmanV2 said:
It's a relay. 'Right' is overegging the issue.

Jluis, I'd look for something more like 60-80A. Can't recall what the OEM rating is, but in this case bigger cannot hurt.

C
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I don't know the exact rating, I just picked 30A because I read somewhere the fuse is 30A.
The only thing that needs to be matched up is contact rating and pin pattern, and since these are going to be used as consumables, a cheap brand will do!
These are as standard as it gets and I find a 50 pound price offensive considering the factory probably buys them at 1 pound each and don't even have to keep stocks.
 
CatmanV2

CatmanV2

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No argument that Maserati over charge. The benefit of higher amperage would be that it would run a bit cooler, and *perhaps* be less likely to weld shut.

C
 
jluis

jluis

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That might be a good idea.
Higher amperage spec means wider contacts and probably higher spring force to lower the temperature and reduce the electric arc when breaking the circuit.
 
midlifecrisis

midlifecrisis

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Gentlemen, A word of warning regarding second hand relays, how old are they? How do you know what you are gettting is a 7 year old one with 10 short of the gauranteed million operations?

Secondly I wouldn't buy something so critical off eBay. I would buy one of a reputable Electronics Dealer such a RS Components or Farnell/CPC. They will supply the part with a certificate of conformity declaring that what you are buying is not a cheap fake part.

I have seen some shoddy components bought via eBay and it's not worth the risk.
 
midlifecrisis

midlifecrisis

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Secondly on the 'arcing' factor it's a shame no one makes a relay containing Sodium Hexaflourine which inhibits sparking and is heavily used on High Voltage Network of 11kV and upwards.

Thirdly, in relays, it's not the electronic side that fails but the mechanical.
 
jluis

jluis

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midlifecrisis said:
Secondly on the 'arcing' factor it's a shame no one makes a relay containing Sodium Hexaflourine which inhibits sparking and is heavily used on High Voltage Network of 11kV and upwards.

Thirdly, in relays, it's not the electronic side that fails but the mechanical.
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That would actualy make the relay worth 50 quid. How would Maserati make any profit then? :)
 
miket

miket

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SF6 can present potentially harmful health hazards, so not ideal on a 12v relay that operates so frequently, the premise of its use in HV equipment is that the switch it is used in to help quench any arc operates very infrequently.
A higher current rating for a relay would mean the contacts are more capable of handling the load, so should last longer in theory.
 
midlifecrisis

midlifecrisis

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miket said:
SF6 can present potentially harmful health hazards, so not ideal on a 12v relay that operates so frequently, the premise of its use in HV equipment is that the switch it is used in to help quench any arc operates very infrequently.
A higher current rating for a relay would mean the contacts are more capable of handling the load, so should last longer in theory.
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You repeated what I said in half of your post, and regardless of current rating it's still going you wear out mechanically!

Pitting due to sparking is still going you occur whatever the rating is.

I only suggested SF6 as a joke.

At the end of the day, change your relays every 5 years or so with a new like for like replacement and you can't go wrong.
 
jluis

jluis

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Just out of curiosity, what is the duty cycle in these relays?
I tought it was power on when the car is opened and power off when the engine is off.
Given that so many people are having this problem Is the pump being cycled on and off while driving?
 
CatmanV2

CatmanV2

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Yes it cycles, depending on the pressure in the F1 hydraulic system.

Pressure drops (leak down, or gear changing), relay closes, pump operates, pressure increases.
Pressure hits required level, relay opens, pump stops.

That's the dangerous failure where the relay contacts weld close, running the pump continuously. Then the duty cycle of the F1 pump is exceeded.

C
 
Migliore

Migliore

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So what is the best course of action to take if you hear the pump running continuously? is this the noise we hear when the drivers door opens?
 
CatmanV2

CatmanV2

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Yes that's the noise. Mine runs for about 5-6 seconds when I unlock the car. If I'd hear it run for more than that, I'd power the car down, and swap out the relay (yes I do have a spare)

If that fixed it I'd listen (more) carefully every time I start the car. I check it every time anyway, just part of my start up routine.

Certainly I'd be concerned if it started running longer. There are other reasons it may need to run longer, and if the relay doesn't fix the issue, I'd get it looked at pretty sharpish.

C
 
EnzoMC

EnzoMC

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great thread - thanks guys....another item for the shopping list - should the relay have 4 or 5 pins ?

off out to get one from Alfa or bm

46520419 B047 50a. Alfa
6136 1393403. bm
 
jluis

jluis

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From the pics I saw it's a 4 pin relay (2 pins for the low voltage control and 2 pins for the high current load switch)
 
EnzoMC

EnzoMC

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philgarner said:
attachment.php
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what a pain to remove.... mine was the same as your, had 05 date on it

bm part has 5 pins and the alfa has 4 pins.
 
Stewart

Stewart

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EnzoMC said:
what a pain to remove.... mine was the same as your, had 05 date on it

bm part has 5 pins and the alfa has 4 pins.
Click to expand...

Just tried to change mine after taking part no for Alpha Part from post here , great service, arrived in the far north of the world within one day...removed mine from car found 5pin Tyco unit ..the Alpha part in 4pin.

Can any one clarify the part definitely ..?
 
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