CraigWaterman11
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Slave cylinder/thrust bearing re-install
Okay guys I received the F1 Sensor, or Thrust bearing position sensor yesterday in the mail so I figured I would post a few pics putting it back together. I am supposed to receive the clutch in the mail tomorrow. I will need to go and have it dynamically balanced before getting it back into the car. I also promised a forum member I wouldn't put the car back together until he could stop by and check it out while I have it apart. Maybe I can get a few photos of the balance process for the forum when I take it over.
Okay so of course the process to re-install the thrust bearing is the reverse of disassembly! LOL! Now have at it!
So a few pointers on reassembly, first, I'm assuming that you have already checked the clutch shaft bearing in the rear of the bell housing. It's pretty simple to see, and actually any rear wheel drive vehicle has this in the standard transmission bell housing, the only problem is that you would have to completely disassemble any standard transmission to get to this or replace it. Again, I applaud Maserati's simplicity here. Not only do I like that you can drop the gear box as a unit, the torque tube as a unit, but the bell housing is light and I like the design. There's nothing you can not change in it. Additionally, for guys who have stabbed transmissions before, you are under the car basically jacking, bench pressing the transmission to get it stabbed back into the PP/clutch to mate to the motor. I don't foresee any problems with that with just this bell housing assembly and it's weight in comparison.
So here is the clutch shaft center bearing:
Before I forget, you can push the shaft and bearing out through bell housing as you see I did. Once everything is removed there's nothing to hold it in. However, there's a retaining clip on the torque tube side so don't try to remove it that way. Moreover, before re-assembly make sure this bearing is sitting all the way against that clip on the torque tube side, make sure it's not hanging out like this:
It needs to be all the way back in this fashion below:
Chances are if you attempt to mount the CNC'd spacer back in with it too far up it won't let you anyway. But if it was slightly off it might. Hopefully you would notice but if not it's good to see that it sits absolutely flush. I didn't expect to have any problems with the bearing because again the car only has about 26,000 miles on it. I checked it, there was little to no shaft play as it's installed from the end, and the bearing is semi-stiff as if new when turned. If in doubt though, change it out.
The CNC'd spacer sits flush like this:
If you are looking for something to clean the different assembly pieces covered in clutch friction disc material and other grime, I used acetone. It's a strong chemical, it's the active ingredient in most car paint reducers. Actually, I can not remember it might be the active ingredient in carb cleaner or brake cleaner as well. You can pick up a gallon for less than $20 at a Home Depot or such. Please use gloves, it's strong, dries fast but will cut through all of the garbage on the individual pieces without scrubbing for hours. DON'T dump it into the bearing!
My individual pieces:
Before I forget the allen bolts, or hex bolts are 2.5mm to remove the F1 sensor from the base to put the new one on. It's pretty simple, leave the old one on the base till you have the new one, and just put the new one in it's place. It's grooved or the plastic is raised on the sensor to fit into the base. It's difficult to get it around backwards when you can see how the old one was already sitting in it.
The photos above you will see the brass colored spring retention pins sitting on the thrust bearing sideways. I wanted to show you that you CAN put them upside down, however the springs will not seat right if you do. The last photo above shows you how they should sit.
Here is the springs sitting on the pins, also you have to put most of the other bolts in before you push the thrust bearing/slave cylinder onto it's base. Below you can see the F1 sensor sitting in place with the screw portion pointing forward. The F1 sensor will be the first thing bolted to the slave cylinder base.
Before you push it on make sure you have lubricated the seals, and base just a bit to facilitate movement. Here is a front view, the seals are green:
Here's a side view. Remember to put the bolts in the bottom by the F1 sensor, once you push it together like this the F1 sensor magnet rod will be in the way and you will not be able to put the Hex bolt in. This photo below I took before I did so. I mounted the sensor and clocked the base already then had to take it apart to put the bolt through on the bottom by the sensor:
Here's a photo (below) with the bolts in it sticking through the base. Also notice how the base thrust bearing base with spring is slightly clocked. Remember when we removed it, we had to clock it to remove the base bolts. Now the opposite is true it has to be clocked to install and mount the base, then clock the thrust bearing base back over the hex bolts to install the rest.
Here's everything installed, and torqued down. I figured you knew where the hydraulic tubes went, and the F1 sensor wiring. I made sure with the F1 sensor wiring. I pulled the wiring closer to the sensor so that there wouldn't be any tension on the wire at it's base. Then I tightened the wiring retainers. I could really see this being an issue for the sensor itself if a mechanic put it in and not pay extra detail to the fact that if there were constant tugging or pulling it would short it out. It's not that the wiring from the sensor isn't manufactured well, it's like (crass example) a cell phone charging cable that has been bent over either side, and constantly slightly pulled. Eventually it's going to short or break right at the base of the cable.
If you pull the wiring slightly back toward the sensor and cinch down the retainers it should prevent this and allow the wiring to flex just enough without constant pressure pulling at it. Thus no premature failure.
Okay guys so it's altogether. Last notes as it pertains to re-installation. Don't forget to use Loctite or Permatex thread locker. It was on the bolts when removed, it will need to be on it when installed. Also don't forget where your washers were and how they were designated!
Let's discuss torque specs for the inside of the housing, it's important well but before I do here is the other torque specs you will need to install the other parts in the car.......Just put it to the side for now, I just didn't want to forget to add it later on in the thread:
"Flywheel fastening screws: 83 Nm" (newton meters)[ for us in the U.S. we recognize more Ft. lbs so converted that's 61.217 Ft. lbs.]
"Clutch Assembly Retaining Screws 18 Nm" [13.276 Ft.lbs]
"Clutch Housing Lock nuts 26 Nm" [19.176 Ft. lbs]
Here is the torque specs for what we have covered above:
So the fastening screws (those are the regular box wrench bolts on the base) and the fastening pins (those are the long rod looking pins beside the springs), and the hex/allen bolts all are tightened to 7.5 Nm [5.531 Ft. lbs]
Here's a good pic below of what they look like: pin on the right, regular bolt to the left hex bolt in the back-ground of the pic:
The F1 sensor is torqued to 1.2 Nm or about 1 Ft. lb (.88 Ft. lb)
The hydraulic lines are torqued to 18 Nm or [13.276 Ft.lbs]
That's it for this segment!
Okay guys I received the F1 Sensor, or Thrust bearing position sensor yesterday in the mail so I figured I would post a few pics putting it back together. I am supposed to receive the clutch in the mail tomorrow. I will need to go and have it dynamically balanced before getting it back into the car. I also promised a forum member I wouldn't put the car back together until he could stop by and check it out while I have it apart. Maybe I can get a few photos of the balance process for the forum when I take it over.
Okay so of course the process to re-install the thrust bearing is the reverse of disassembly! LOL! Now have at it!
So a few pointers on reassembly, first, I'm assuming that you have already checked the clutch shaft bearing in the rear of the bell housing. It's pretty simple to see, and actually any rear wheel drive vehicle has this in the standard transmission bell housing, the only problem is that you would have to completely disassemble any standard transmission to get to this or replace it. Again, I applaud Maserati's simplicity here. Not only do I like that you can drop the gear box as a unit, the torque tube as a unit, but the bell housing is light and I like the design. There's nothing you can not change in it. Additionally, for guys who have stabbed transmissions before, you are under the car basically jacking, bench pressing the transmission to get it stabbed back into the PP/clutch to mate to the motor. I don't foresee any problems with that with just this bell housing assembly and it's weight in comparison.
So here is the clutch shaft center bearing:
Before I forget, you can push the shaft and bearing out through bell housing as you see I did. Once everything is removed there's nothing to hold it in. However, there's a retaining clip on the torque tube side so don't try to remove it that way. Moreover, before re-assembly make sure this bearing is sitting all the way against that clip on the torque tube side, make sure it's not hanging out like this:
It needs to be all the way back in this fashion below:
Chances are if you attempt to mount the CNC'd spacer back in with it too far up it won't let you anyway. But if it was slightly off it might. Hopefully you would notice but if not it's good to see that it sits absolutely flush. I didn't expect to have any problems with the bearing because again the car only has about 26,000 miles on it. I checked it, there was little to no shaft play as it's installed from the end, and the bearing is semi-stiff as if new when turned. If in doubt though, change it out.
The CNC'd spacer sits flush like this:
If you are looking for something to clean the different assembly pieces covered in clutch friction disc material and other grime, I used acetone. It's a strong chemical, it's the active ingredient in most car paint reducers. Actually, I can not remember it might be the active ingredient in carb cleaner or brake cleaner as well. You can pick up a gallon for less than $20 at a Home Depot or such. Please use gloves, it's strong, dries fast but will cut through all of the garbage on the individual pieces without scrubbing for hours. DON'T dump it into the bearing!
My individual pieces:
Before I forget the allen bolts, or hex bolts are 2.5mm to remove the F1 sensor from the base to put the new one on. It's pretty simple, leave the old one on the base till you have the new one, and just put the new one in it's place. It's grooved or the plastic is raised on the sensor to fit into the base. It's difficult to get it around backwards when you can see how the old one was already sitting in it.
The photos above you will see the brass colored spring retention pins sitting on the thrust bearing sideways. I wanted to show you that you CAN put them upside down, however the springs will not seat right if you do. The last photo above shows you how they should sit.
Here is the springs sitting on the pins, also you have to put most of the other bolts in before you push the thrust bearing/slave cylinder onto it's base. Below you can see the F1 sensor sitting in place with the screw portion pointing forward. The F1 sensor will be the first thing bolted to the slave cylinder base.
Before you push it on make sure you have lubricated the seals, and base just a bit to facilitate movement. Here is a front view, the seals are green:
Here's a side view. Remember to put the bolts in the bottom by the F1 sensor, once you push it together like this the F1 sensor magnet rod will be in the way and you will not be able to put the Hex bolt in. This photo below I took before I did so. I mounted the sensor and clocked the base already then had to take it apart to put the bolt through on the bottom by the sensor:
Here's a photo (below) with the bolts in it sticking through the base. Also notice how the base thrust bearing base with spring is slightly clocked. Remember when we removed it, we had to clock it to remove the base bolts. Now the opposite is true it has to be clocked to install and mount the base, then clock the thrust bearing base back over the hex bolts to install the rest.
Here's everything installed, and torqued down. I figured you knew where the hydraulic tubes went, and the F1 sensor wiring. I made sure with the F1 sensor wiring. I pulled the wiring closer to the sensor so that there wouldn't be any tension on the wire at it's base. Then I tightened the wiring retainers. I could really see this being an issue for the sensor itself if a mechanic put it in and not pay extra detail to the fact that if there were constant tugging or pulling it would short it out. It's not that the wiring from the sensor isn't manufactured well, it's like (crass example) a cell phone charging cable that has been bent over either side, and constantly slightly pulled. Eventually it's going to short or break right at the base of the cable.
If you pull the wiring slightly back toward the sensor and cinch down the retainers it should prevent this and allow the wiring to flex just enough without constant pressure pulling at it. Thus no premature failure.
Okay guys so it's altogether. Last notes as it pertains to re-installation. Don't forget to use Loctite or Permatex thread locker. It was on the bolts when removed, it will need to be on it when installed. Also don't forget where your washers were and how they were designated!
Let's discuss torque specs for the inside of the housing, it's important well but before I do here is the other torque specs you will need to install the other parts in the car.......Just put it to the side for now, I just didn't want to forget to add it later on in the thread:
"Flywheel fastening screws: 83 Nm" (newton meters)[ for us in the U.S. we recognize more Ft. lbs so converted that's 61.217 Ft. lbs.]
"Clutch Assembly Retaining Screws 18 Nm" [13.276 Ft.lbs]
"Clutch Housing Lock nuts 26 Nm" [19.176 Ft. lbs]
Here is the torque specs for what we have covered above:
So the fastening screws (those are the regular box wrench bolts on the base) and the fastening pins (those are the long rod looking pins beside the springs), and the hex/allen bolts all are tightened to 7.5 Nm [5.531 Ft. lbs]
Here's a good pic below of what they look like: pin on the right, regular bolt to the left hex bolt in the back-ground of the pic:
The F1 sensor is torqued to 1.2 Nm or about 1 Ft. lb (.88 Ft. lb)
The hydraulic lines are torqued to 18 Nm or [13.276 Ft.lbs]
That's it for this segment!