New oil filter...pre oiled by factory?

[strictly]

I have never seen this ever before, but this is my first maserati.

The new engine oil filter is quite oily. It does not appear to be have much oil inside it, but there is plenty around the seal.

Does anyone know why?

When I fit, should I half or quarter fill with oil? It is not something I would normally do on a side mounted filter.

 

[ChrisQP09]

i seen a pre lubes filter on a youtube video once. I cannot say if they’re meant to be like this.

 

[2b1ask1]

Was the seal intact on the box? I have never seen a pre-oilled filter; I'd think you could find Urby's looking like that when changed!

 

[Zep]

They don’t contain oil. Mainly because they are fitted side on and so the oil doesn’t stay in the filter, it goes on the floor.

 

[flat-12]

I think these Maserati oil filters are tested for proper function in the manufacturing process. Every one of them I've ever bought come wrapped in plastic, and they are covered in oil - but not "pre-filled" with oil.

 

[strictly]

Yes new sealed from eurospares. A bit more goggling shows it is normal.

https://www.maseratilife.com/threads/oem-oil-filters.117466/

So the only thing that says to me, is that either it is tested during production, or despite the workshop manual not saying anything, that they should have some oil inside them during installation but not enough to spill out. I will add some oil and spin slowly sideways before install

 

[strictly]

I think these Maserati oil filters are tested for proper function in the manufacturing process. Every one of them I've ever bought come wrapped in plastic, and they are covered in oil - but not "pre-filled" with oil.

Ah ok, that is good know in which case I won't add any oil, I don't normally

 

[DLax69]

My assumption is it's for the benefit of the seal/gasket.

 

[conaero]

All the filters of late are the same as the OP states. I prefill to half way, not saying you have to, it’s just what I have always done.

 

[strictly]

All the filters of late are the same as the OP states. I prefill to half way, not saying you have to, it’s just what I have always done.

Ah ok, good to know, there did seem to be some oil in my filter and that makes alot of sense. Incidentally I did fill mine a bit then turn 90 degrees and slowly turn to make sure it soaked around. I did not fill so much that I spilled anyway I installed it.

Just to keep going for anyone thinking of doing it.

A) the engine oil in the sump came out preety quick, i have a big oil drain thing but even that struggled, I might use a large bucket next time. The drain plug is 60 nm

B) for the filter the laser 4236 tool worked great. GSF has them for £5, £9 on amazon. You have to take the silver rivet out so you can fit a 3/8 torque wrench.
The filter Is 30nm, which is quite a bit more than hand tight.

My oil filter had a rubber thing around it to help with draining the oil. I put a hose over the drain port to direct it to my bucket other wise it just goes all over the subframe.

I've not reset the service token yet, I will do that tomorrow

 

[conaero]

Just to give you some pointers:

When you take the old filter out, feel around inside the housing to make sure the old filter O ring is not still in there. They do fall off.

The oil comes out at great flow, I use a 10L bucket as it will overrun a funnel into a receptacle.

The oil sump nut should be done up to feel or they will strip the sump threads. What I do is paint pen it before I undo it so it gives an indicator as to where to retighten too.

The oil filter drain cup is a terrible design. I just let it go, with a bucket underneath then clean up with brake cleaner.

Filling the oil. It’s so easy to overfill it. I see it time and time again. It will cause the engine/car to vibrate at idle.

Fill with 8L, run the car regardless of it showing in the dipstick. Bring it up to temp, let cool for 10 mins and top with 1-1.5L so it’s half way up the indicator area of the dipstick. Repeat the run up and cool down and top off to 2/3rds up the indicator area of the dipstick. The level is now set, there is no requirement to fill to the top of the indicator area.

 

[strictly]

Just to give you some pointers:

When you take the old filter out, feel around inside the housing to make sure the old filter O ring is not still in there. They do fall off.

The oil comes out at great flow, I use a 10L bucket as it will overrun a funnel into a receptacle.

The oil sump nut should be done up to feel or they will strip the sump threads. What I do is paint pen it before I undo it so it gives an indicator as to where to retighten too.

The oil filter drain cup is a terrible design. I just let it go, with a bucket underneath then clean up with brake cleaner.

Filling the oil. It’s so easy to overfill it. I see it time and time again. It will cause the engine/car to vibrate at idle.

Fill with 8L, run the car regardless of it showing in the dipstick. Bring it up to temp, let cool for 10 mins and top with 1-1.5L so it’s half way up the indicator area of the dipstick. Repeat the run up and cool down and top off to 2/3rds up the indicator area of the dipstick. The level is now set, there is no requirement to fill to the top of the indicator area.

That's awesome advice! Oops I've already done the sump nut to 60nm, hopefully I will be OK and will do the above next time.

Wow that's really intresting about the level, I only put 8 and a bit in, so I still have time to finish as per your advice above. Thanks for taking the time to write it all

 

[strictly]

P.s interestingly, I notice my passenger seat does shake at idle, this is before the oil change, I will reassess after following the above

 

[flat-12]

Hello Conaero....that's interesting....about oil overfill causing vibration at idle, but I don't understand how that would be the result? Can you elaborate on this?

 

[conaero]

Sure, if you over fill the oil the crank whips/froths the oil as when set correctly the crank does not interfere. Also, too much oil causes higher oil pressure.

 

[philw696]

Always have done them to 60 NM and never a problem but the cars were a lot newer back then when I was at the Dealership.
A Quality calibrated torque wrench is the important bit.
A lot of Japanese OE oil filters were pre lubed too.
Personally a bit of old engine oil wiped around a subframe is a good thing to keep corrosion at bay.

 

[Diavolo Nero]

Always have done them to 60 NM and never a problem but the cars were a lot newer back then when I was at the Dealership.
A Quality calibrated torque wrench is the important bit.
A lot of Japanese OE oil filters were pre lubed too.
Personally a bit of old engine oil wiped around a subframe is a good thing to keep corrosion at bay.

About how many white knuckles is that

 

[philw696]

About how many white knuckles is that

It's all down to experience and feel and for myself I've been on the tools for 46 years.

 

[Diavolo Nero]

It's all down to experience and feel and for myself I've been on the tools for 46 years.

Torqued to TFAR (that feels about right) .

 

[philw696]

Torqued to TFAR (that feels about right) .

It's all about the feel.
Problem is that some people don't know when to stop and then the damage is done.