Maybe rust in this... piece.

[samueluper]

Hi! I went yesterday to do a steering alignment and my mechanic noticed this small rust marks after cleaning it...




We tried to loosen the marked área but we couldn´t because was completely stiff.

Can I purchase that part? in Eurospares seems that is all together...

Any tip? Thanks!!!

 

[CatmanV2]

I believe that part was engineered by the esteemed Craig Waterman of this parish, and now sold by Formula Dynamics in the US.

Newton has some special tools to break out that nut as well I think

Otherwise it's a complete arm from Maserati at £eeek

C

 

[samueluper]

I believe that part was engineered by the esteemed Craig Waterman of this parish, and now sold by Formula Dynamics in the US.

Newton has some special tools to break out that nut as well I think

Otherwise it's a complete arm from Maserati at £eeek

C

Is this? http://formuladynamics.com/products/4200_tie_rod/4200_tie_rod.php

How can I loosen it to make the change? Maybe with heat? Thanks!!!

 

[conaero]

If you look on the homepage in the classifieds parts sidebar, the listing for the balljoint covers is the same guy who does these tie rods.

Send him a PM or as Chris says, if its the large threaded nut, Newton (2b1ask1) has had some remanufactured.

They are extremely difficult to remove and to seize, so I would look at the issue being rust again before you start ordering parts.

 

[Gp79]

Ensure both locking nuts are released, then it is just penetrating fluid, heat and patience, they will come loose eventually

 

[2b1ask1]

Before you go loosening anything get an accurate measurement from a fixed point of the wishbone to the centre of the stud at the outer end of the tie rod, this will allow you to get it reasonably close to where you started then treat yourself to a full Laser geo set up.

Basically look to loosen the small lock nut at the inner end which is on the fine thread, and also the big lock nut against the wishbone. What you are then trying to overcome is all of the remaining 80mm of fine thread down the middle as well as 60mm of the coarse thread down the outside of the socket with the big lock nut on it, all at the same time which is why they are such a monumental pain in the derriere to remove/free. If you go for Craig's/FD's tie rods you can simply cut the tie bar about 60mm out from the lock nut and swing the remainder out of the way, use a deep impact socket and just free the outer coarse thread. Once out you can transfer the stub of the tie bar to a vice and apply plenty of heat to free the socket off the inner thread. You can always weld a couple of nuts over the cut end of the tie bar for extra grip. If this is not successful I have new sockets and lock nuts available at cost.

 

[samueluper]

Before you go loosening anything get an accurate measurement from a fixed point of the wishbone to the centre of the stud at the outer end of the tie rod, this will allow you to get it reasonably close to where you started then treat yourself to a full Laser geo set up.

Basically look to loosen the small lock nut at the inner end which is on the fine thread, and also the big lock nut against the wishbone. What you are then trying to overcome is all of the remaining 80mm of fine thread down the middle as well as 60mm of the coarse thread down the outside of the socket with the big lock nut on it, all at the same time which is why they are such a monumental pain in the derriere to remove/free. If you go for Craig's/FD's tie rods you can simply cut the tie bar about 60mm out from the lock nut and swing the remainder out of the way, use a deep impact socket and just free the outer coarse thread. Once out you can transfer the stub of the tie bar to a vice and apply plenty of heat to free the socket off the inner thread. You can always weld a couple of nuts over the cut end of the tie bar for extra grip. If this is not successful I have new sockets and lock nuts available at cost.

Many thanks to all!!!! This forum is awesome! In Spain we haven´t any source of this kind of cars info....