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First thing to note is that this is a simple DIY job. MAF has already provided an in-depth how-to guide for GS, 4200 and 3200 so this post should be read in conjunction with that. I'll primarily focus on the differences between the two.
In terms of parts I've switched the standard disks for Formula Dynamics drop-in replacements. These are slightly lighter than the originals, and are grooved as well as drilled so look good as well. Instead of Maserati pads I've bought EBC Yellow Stuff which are about a quarter of the price and also work better. The only downside is that they don't have the wear warning sensor, but as you can just look and see how much pad is left I don't see that as much of a drawback.
As well as the tools which MAF listed, you'll need:
Hex socket - 10mm
Some good cuss words. I tried ****, ********, **** and "oh, you ******", which all worked quite well
With the wheel removed the first job is to get the old pads out. The process is pretty much the same as per MAF's guide, but the callipers on the GTS also have a central retaining bolt, which you can see below.
This bolt is fixed by a 10mm headed bolt which screws into a female end on the longer, main bolt. Be careful when removing the rear bolt - the one on my passenger side sheared (this is where the cuss words come in handy). As an interim replacement I've just used a long bolt but will track down a replacement as soon as I can. Although the bolt seems slightly superfluous I'm reluctant to assume it's optional.
With the rear bolt removed the main bolt can be driven out from the rear with a long bolt or thick screwdriver shaft and hammer. Note that it's a tight fit so be gentle but determined with it.
The pads should now wiggle out, but may need some help with a screwdriver to gently prize them free. On the passenger side one of the pads will also have the wear sensor and wire, which will need to be removed. If you're not replacing OEM pads you'll need to tie the cable out of the way. I used a cable tie.
The callipers can now be removed. They are held in place by a hex bolt at the top and bottom. These need some determined force, so much so that I was concerned about shearing them, but they eventually came free. I suspect they hadn't been removed since the car was built. Although the original disks were skimmed at around 19k miles, 23k miles ago, they were most likely done in situ.
With the callipers off and propped up on aI learned what was holding the disks on. Which was nothing. They're held in place by the callipers and then held solid by the wheel. Note that I have Formula Dynamics spacers and I needed to remove a bolt to get them to sit flush, so your disks may have a single retaining bolt.
With everything apart take the opportunity to give things a clean before reassembling. I found that to get the pads in it helped to make sure that the pistons were evenly protruding. The default seemed to be that one would be out a long way, which s propped the pads from sliding in easily. It still took some jiggling but overall was fairly easy.
In terms of performance so far these seem far better. Admittedly the old disks and pads were pretty crappy (see below), but even after only a couple of hundred miles the new ones inspire much more confidence.
In terms of parts I've switched the standard disks for Formula Dynamics drop-in replacements. These are slightly lighter than the originals, and are grooved as well as drilled so look good as well. Instead of Maserati pads I've bought EBC Yellow Stuff which are about a quarter of the price and also work better. The only downside is that they don't have the wear warning sensor, but as you can just look and see how much pad is left I don't see that as much of a drawback.
As well as the tools which MAF listed, you'll need:
Hex socket - 10mm
Some good cuss words. I tried ****, ********, **** and "oh, you ******", which all worked quite well
With the wheel removed the first job is to get the old pads out. The process is pretty much the same as per MAF's guide, but the callipers on the GTS also have a central retaining bolt, which you can see below.
This bolt is fixed by a 10mm headed bolt which screws into a female end on the longer, main bolt. Be careful when removing the rear bolt - the one on my passenger side sheared (this is where the cuss words come in handy). As an interim replacement I've just used a long bolt but will track down a replacement as soon as I can. Although the bolt seems slightly superfluous I'm reluctant to assume it's optional.
With the rear bolt removed the main bolt can be driven out from the rear with a long bolt or thick screwdriver shaft and hammer. Note that it's a tight fit so be gentle but determined with it.
The pads should now wiggle out, but may need some help with a screwdriver to gently prize them free. On the passenger side one of the pads will also have the wear sensor and wire, which will need to be removed. If you're not replacing OEM pads you'll need to tie the cable out of the way. I used a cable tie.
The callipers can now be removed. They are held in place by a hex bolt at the top and bottom. These need some determined force, so much so that I was concerned about shearing them, but they eventually came free. I suspect they hadn't been removed since the car was built. Although the original disks were skimmed at around 19k miles, 23k miles ago, they were most likely done in situ.
With the callipers off and propped up on aI learned what was holding the disks on. Which was nothing. They're held in place by the callipers and then held solid by the wheel. Note that I have Formula Dynamics spacers and I needed to remove a bolt to get them to sit flush, so your disks may have a single retaining bolt.
With everything apart take the opportunity to give things a clean before reassembling. I found that to get the pads in it helped to make sure that the pistons were evenly protruding. The default seemed to be that one would be out a long way, which s propped the pads from sliding in easily. It still took some jiggling but overall was fairly easy.
In terms of performance so far these seem far better. Admittedly the old disks and pads were pretty crappy (see below), but even after only a couple of hundred miles the new ones inspire much more confidence.
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