Just my 5 cents: you must do what you must, but at cold start the lubriction in the engine is at the least ideal point. In addition to the remarks above:
When the engine is off, most of the oil will drain back into the sump. It will take a few RPM before sufficient oil pressure is built up. During that time lubrication is not optimal in some parts of the engine.
Same goes for the sliding bearing parts: The thin oil film thickness providing lubrication deminishes when the engine is off. It will take a few RPM to built up sufficient oil film thickness between the bearing plains i.e. before the rotating part is optimally "surfing" on an oil film. But with cold oil it'll be more difficult to built up than with hot oil as the oil is more viscous (thicker). So the bearing will run longer with less lubrication at every cold start up. Hence why most engines used in emergency services such ambulance etc. are fitted with engine heating. The oil will be at temperature for them race off from 0 to full throtlle out of the garage while limiting engine damage.
Also at cold engine temperatures the engine is running richer and causing more condensation. This will for a significant part end up in your engine oil and won't be evaporated off untill the oil has been at temperature for a long time. That's why one needs to be wary of ppl saying "I do not ever have to top up the oil between services". Most likely they are only running short distances and the oil get's topped up with water out of the condensate.
In addition everytime the engine is turned of the last remaining unburned fuel also condenses, washes off the oil on the cilinder walls and settles in the oil. Petrol is also not a great lubricant. Hence my LPG fueled cars had less wear than my petrol cars I have had, besides the fact that LPG proceduces way less carbon built up: the lpg does not condense as it is a gas at normal temperatures.
On my modern car I've got an oil temp gauge (don't know why the mas hasn't gat that, still contemplating building one in): Coolant will be up to temp in abt 3-5 km, depending on ambient temp. The oil will not settle to a stable 80-90 dgr C for another 15-20 km. That's with an ideal warm up imo: 1 km creaping out of the residential area with 30kph, then 1 km 50 kph getting out of the village followed by 7 km at 70-80 kph before turning onto the motorway where I do another 35-40 km every day. I can also take the short cut, but then I'd have to floor it after 3 km to get onto the motorway on an uphill ramp, so I try to avoid that as much as possible.
What I've also noticed: The coolant temp will settle at 90 dgr quickly and stay there. The oil temp will vary: While stationary idling at the traffic light it'll go up 10 dgrs, but when you start driving it'll drop 7 again. Not having investigated this, but I believe the oil temp sensor is somewhere in the engine rather than in the sump. When idling the oil pressure and flow is low and the sensor get's influenced by the hotter engine block. Once the car gets moving it'll pump more colder oil out of the sump, causing a temp drop in the circuit. This will not settle untill about 30 km from my house and even then it can vary anywhere between 85-95 dgr C.
Mind you, this is a 1 liter, 3 pot engine fitted with a hairdryer. Not sure how much oil it takes (lease car, I only top it up once every 12-15K...), I'm guessing it's about half of the fluid quantity the mas takes. So the mas will take longer to get up to temp.
So frequent oil changes and long runs once a week are a good idea. Also park the car so you have to move it the least amount as I assume the QP is the most valuable car in your household
and go low and slow when moving the car.
