Hexadex
Member
Thanks Lozzer, £42 as opposed to £142, that’s one heck of a saving.
Crack in hub carrier
- Thread starter Hexadex
- Start date
Rex B
Member
I had both mine replaced 2 years ago as both were found to have hairline cracks when checked by McGraths. This is not a uncommon problem and the hubs on 3200 and 4200 should be checked annually. I wrote to Maserati advising them of the problem and even suggested they considered advising owners but all l got back was a thank you letter.
Rex B
Manual 3200
Rex B
Manual 3200
RobinL
Member
Hammering sure doesn't help but for anyone that is doing work on their suspension it does no harm to profile (grind away high spots) and smooth the casting marks. (Don't go mad and heat it up with over enthusiastic grinding!) The shape of the piece can raise stress locally and eventually induce cracking. Smooth and polished is good.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
As a retired aircraft engineer I absolutely agree with your comments. Something that I and my colleagues were always on the lookout for. Cracks of any kind can be fatal. I would advocate the use of a file though rather than a grinder, finished off with emery paper.
davy83
Member
I am not sure what you are trying to achieve here, but that looks well fixed. I would suspect this at least was pressed into place and possibly even using heat/cold to make it fit. I would consider pressing it if you have a small hydraulic press. Heat would be last resort but might be neccessary given its age. No civilised way that is coming out I suspect. Can you not replace this or avoid this process somehow?
Hexadex
Member
I bought a second hand hub which does not have the insert in, therefore I’m trying to remove from the old one.
Gp79
Member
As your old hub is scrap I’d carefully cut the through to near the insert to weaken it then it should tap out
It should be quite easily ( ie- not too much resistance ) removed as the seat is fundamentally damaged ( why you are changing the hub, right!?!)
I wouldnt hit it...how did we get here...?
I used a few sockets of the appropriate sizes and a vice, and was able to use the extraction process as a dummy run at the reverse method of fitting it into the replacement hub.
It was all fairly straightforward as I recall...Just keep an an eye on it as you dont want it getting bound and coming out ( or indeed, pressing in ) on the pi55, as this will lead to potentially bad results...
I wouldnt hit it...how did we get here...?
I used a few sockets of the appropriate sizes and a vice, and was able to use the extraction process as a dummy run at the reverse method of fitting it into the replacement hub.
It was all fairly straightforward as I recall...Just keep an an eye on it as you dont want it getting bound and coming out ( or indeed, pressing in ) on the pi55, as this will lead to potentially bad results...
Hexadex
Member
Good idea, I’ll try that.
Could you put a post a picture of the ball joint splitter you are using? When I did mine I had to grind out the U shaped slot in the jaws until it would fit. I'm fairly sure that splitters with wider jaws are available. Try searching for commercial or light commercial vehicle splitters. There's not much room around the ball joints I can tell you that. Also it might be easier if you remove the "fabric" covers from the ball joint boots. New ones are available I think from Eurospares quite cheaply.
I gound mine out ,and then broke it...! lol
The splitter needs to be quite wide...You should work on the basis of replacing the ball joint covers. Meaning, its worth peering past them, which risks damaging them perhaps, to get a good idea of the width you need your splitter jaws to clear (ie width of ball joint insert)
Look at your replacement hub carrier for a better idea of the anatomy of what you are trying to do if you cant see at the hub proper....
The splitter needs to be quite wide...You should work on the basis of replacing the ball joint covers. Meaning, its worth peering past them, which risks damaging them perhaps, to get a good idea of the width you need your splitter jaws to clear (ie width of ball joint insert)
Look at your replacement hub carrier for a better idea of the anatomy of what you are trying to do if you cant see at the hub proper....
Zep
Moderator
Hexadex
Member
Sorry for the delay in answering, I have a scissor type one. The width of the cutout is 20mm. Going to have a go today
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Hexadex
Member
Did you have to release the shock absorber before you parted the ball joint?
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Zep
Moderator
Yes, otherwise you are fighting the tension on the joint when you try to split it.
Hexadex
Member
I’m finding that now Tim it’s as tight as h3ll. What else did you take out.?