As a retired aircraft engineer I absolutely agree with your comments. Something that I and my colleagues were always on the lookout for. Cracks of any kind can be fatal. I would advocate the use of a file though rather than a grinder, finished off with emery paper.Hammering sure doesn't help but for anyone that is doing work on their suspension it does no harm to profile (grind away high spots) and smooth the casting marks. (Don't go mad and heat it up with over enthusiastic grinding!) The shape of the piece can raise stress locally and eventually induce cracking. Smooth and polished is good.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
I bought a second hand hub which does not have the insert in, therefore I’m trying to remove from the old one.I am not sure what you are trying to achieve here, but that looks well fixed. I would suspect this at least was pressed into place and possibly even using heat/cold to make it fit. I would consider pressing it if you have a small hydraulic press. Heat would be last resort but might be neccessary given its age. No civilised way that is coming out I suspect. Can you not replace this or avoid this process somehow?
As your old hub is scrap I’d carefully cut the through to near the insert to weaken it then it should tap outI bought a second hand hub which does not have the insert in, therefore I’m trying to remove from the old one.
Good idea, I’ll try that.It should be quite easily ( ie- not too much resistance ) removed as the seat is fundamentally damaged ( why you are changing the hub, right!?!)
I wouldnt hit it...how did we get here...?
I used a few sockets of the appropriate sizes and a vice, and was able to use the extraction process as a dummy run at the reverse method of fitting it into the replacement hub.
It was all fairly straightforward as I recall...Just keep an an eye on it as you dont want it getting bound and coming out ( or indeed, pressing in ) on the pi55, as this will lead to potentially bad results...
Could you put a post a picture of the ball joint splitter you are using? When I did mine I had to grind out the U shaped slot in the jaws until it would fit. I'm fairly sure that splitters with wider jaws are available. Try searching for commercial or light commercial vehicle splitters. There's not much room around the ball joints I can tell you that. Also it might be easier if you remove the "fabric" covers from the ball joint boots. New ones are available I think from Eurospares quite cheaply.I’m at a bit of an impasse at the moment struggling to release the upper and lower ball joints. What did you guys use to release?my normal track rod end removal tool is not big enough. Thanks in advance.View attachment 65522
Sorry for the delay in answering, I have a scissor type one. The width of the cutout is 20mm. Going to have a go todayCould you put a post a picture of the ball joint splitter you are using? When I did mine I had to grind out the U shaped slot in the jaws until it would fit. I'm fairly sure that splitters with wider jaws are available. Try searching for commercial or light commercial vehicle splitters. There's not much room around the ball joints I can tell you that. Also it might be easier if you remove the "fabric" covers from the ball joint boots. New ones are available I think from Eurospares quite cheaply.
Did you have to release the shock absorber before you parted the ball joint?Sorry for the delay in answering, I have a scissor type one. The width of the cutout is 20mm. Is that wide enough? Going to have a go today
View attachment 65584
Did you have to release the shock absorber before you parted the ball joint?
I’m finding that now Tim it’s as tight as h3ll. What else did you take out.?Do more than remove the shock foot bolt as it can be very tight in there- enough to make splitting the joint harder than it needs be...!