Crack in hub carrier

Zep

Moderator
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3,633
It’s a bit labour intensive, but not really tricky. Strip the brakes, disconnect the ARB and shock, split the upper and lower and track rod ball joints, then put it all back together. Looks like someone in the past has released the taper on the rod end using the hammer technique!
 

midlifecrisis

Moderator
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7,692
I've replaced the wheel bearing on my driveway in around an hour or so. Apart from a few arrogant bolts was a relative doddle to do, you bascially stirp it down the hub so isn't much further. Invest in WD40!
 

Zep

Moderator
Messages
3,633
I've replaced the wheel bearing on my driveway in around an hour or so. Apart from a few arrogant bolts was a relative doddle to do, you bascially stirp it down the hub so isn't much further. Invest in WD40!
It’s about half that job, that’s true.
 

TimR

Member
Messages
1,280
It shouldnt be left...you'll feel the car's steering get a little wayward. This is the feedback that tells you get it done !
Looks like a left.
Check out Sopranostu for a used carrier...@ a ton£
Keep the bushings and such. His will have missing and perhaps knackered inserts - depends how it was removed ...So dont use a pickle fork, which will damage the inserts, which you might need to swap into the 'replacement' hub.
Easy peasy!
 

Hexadex

Junior Member
Messages
778
Thanks guys, I’ve just finished fitting rear track rods and on checking fronts found this. Great to know it’s reasonably easy to do.
 

atreyu1

Member
Messages
178
When I first looked at the picture I thought that the crack was on a casting mark. I now think it's been welded and it's cracked on the weld. Just my opinion.
 
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Geo

Member
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391
When I first looked at the picture I thought that the crack was on a casting mark. I now think it's been welded and it's cracked on the weld. Just my opinion.
I agree John, my first thoughts on the matter.
 

Lozzer

Member
Messages
1,078
I agree John, my first thoughts on the matter.
I can see the hammer mark, when I was serving my time my instructor would have made me sign that! I think what you're seeing as a weld is hammer induced deformation.
 
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Geo

Member
Messages
391
I can see the hammer mark, when I was serving my time my instructor would have made me sign that!
It looks like it has been welded at some point and cracked when the weld has been hammered at a later date to split the joint. Without having it right in front of me, I am only offering an opinion.
 

Lozzer

Member
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1,078
It looks like it has been welded at some point and cracked when the weld has been hammered at a later date to split the joint. Without having it right in front of me, I am only offering an opinion.
I'm not arguing lol ;)
 
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TimR

Member
Messages
1,280
Mine looked exactly like that...Its not a weld, Id put money on it ! Its the casting seam that's been hammered by someone who is used to doing it that way before they realised it was made of aluminium...Or, maybe the stress crack appeared after the event...?There is infact very little parent material around the lip of the arm at this point.
Again, mine was cracked but not as badly, at least, initially. And you could see tha imprint from the hammer face - I left it as it wasnt 'progessed' enough (IMO) to affect the bulk of the material that the insert is pressed into; Didnt take long for it to become a problem though. The crack is effectively a stress notch. Accident waiting to happen...!?!>
 
Reactions: Geo

Lozzer

Member
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1,078
Mine looked exactly like that...Its not a weld, Id put money on it ! Its the casting seam that's been hammered by someone who is used to doing it that way before they realised it was made of aluminium...Or, maybe the stress crack appeared after the event...?There is infact very little parent material around the lip of the arm at this point.
Again, mine was cracked but not as badly, at least, initially. And you could see tha imprint from the hammer face - I left it as it wasnt 'progessed' enough (IMO) to affect the bulk of the material that the insert is pressed into; Didnt take long for it to become a problem though. The crack is effectively a stress notch. Accident waiting to happen...!?!>
That crack will never progress to the ball joint mounting area, it is basically "flash" material above..if in doubt drill a small hole at the bottom of the crack/fill, that will stop it progressing, alternatively replace the part and go wash yer underwear....
 
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TimR

Member
Messages
1,280
Yeah/no- it'll split right through.Top to bottom...opening like a yawning casm everytime you load the steering..
At least, Im pretty sure that must be whats happening given the amount of uncontrollable 'swerve' generated around the steering load..! Ask me how I know..:eek::D
 

Lozzer

Member
Messages
1,078
Yeah/no- it'll split right through.Top to bottom...opening like a yawning casm everytime you load the steering..
At least, Im pretty sure that must be whats happening given the amount of uncontrollable 'swerve' generated around the steering load..! Ask me how I know..:eek::D
I stand corrected , even Italian alloy appears to be a ***** :eek: