Cooling fans refuse to work....
- Thread starter Tubber273
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Tubber273
New Member
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It is quite a nice feeling when something so crucial turns out to be a "free" fix to be sure.
The question I'm thinking now is....why did it blow in the first place!
I'll pack a few extra fuses with me and may try a 20 amp in place of the 15 amp if it blows again.
Thanks again for all the help gents!!
The question I'm thinking now is....why did it blow in the first place!
I'll pack a few extra fuses with me and may try a 20 amp in place of the 15 amp if it blows again.
Thanks again for all the help gents!!
Tubber273
New Member
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- 228
I'm pretty sure the 1000rpm is right. (It's what mine idles at and has after every service)
If you are over heating, check the basics:
1) check to make sure the fans actually come on (simple - but necessary)
2) if they don't - then check the 2 relays in the engine bay near the oil filler cap, and the 2 fuses against the firewall (both the relays AND fuses control the first speed and second speed fans )
3) if they look fine - check inside for the fuses - specifically in the fuse schedule.....#8 a 15A Pale blue "+87 main relay for Lambda sensor, air flow meter etc" (somehow - this fuse controls the cooling fans!!)
4) check the "resistor" located at the bottom of the radiator (just search "resistor" and you'll see where and what it is)
If the fans do come on (both stages):
5) there's the temperature sensor (part 180137),
6) and then of course the thermostat (part 192242)
Hopefully this helps a bit! Good luck!
If you are over heating, check the basics:
1) check to make sure the fans actually come on (simple - but necessary)
2) if they don't - then check the 2 relays in the engine bay near the oil filler cap, and the 2 fuses against the firewall (both the relays AND fuses control the first speed and second speed fans )
3) if they look fine - check inside for the fuses - specifically in the fuse schedule.....#8 a 15A Pale blue "+87 main relay for Lambda sensor, air flow meter etc" (somehow - this fuse controls the cooling fans!!)
4) check the "resistor" located at the bottom of the radiator (just search "resistor" and you'll see where and what it is)
If the fans do come on (both stages):
5) there's the temperature sensor (part 180137),
6) and then of course the thermostat (part 192242)
Hopefully this helps a bit! Good luck!
conaero
Forum Owner
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- 34,693
Interesting. I spoke to several Spyder owners and they all report 800-850 rpm to be the norm.
Mike says there is a fault with the fans/cooling system that makes the car idle higher.
Where were the wires that were shorting on your car it sounds like we have a common fault.
We are having a mini meet today so there will be some other 4200/Spyders there, ill report back as to their idle.
Oh, mines a 2002 as is yours, it might have a bearing.
Mike says there is a fault with the fans/cooling system that makes the car idle higher.
Where were the wires that were shorting on your car it sounds like we have a common fault.
We are having a mini meet today so there will be some other 4200/Spyders there, ill report back as to their idle.
Oh, mines a 2002 as is yours, it might have a bearing.
Tubber273
New Member
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Hi Conaero! I wish I could tell you where the short was happening, but I have no idea.
I do know the master technician traced it after a little less than 4 hours (best dealership ever here....no charge!!).
He is also the one that said 1000rpm is normal, but perhaps the cars here in North America are different???
FYI....in my investigation of my fans not coming on, I replaced every fuse, the resistor, both temp sensors, and both relays.
When my fuse (#8 in the manual) kept blowing, it was clear there was either too much load, or a short.
(Obviously it was a short.)
Good luck with your issue, I wish I could help more!!
I do know the master technician traced it after a little less than 4 hours (best dealership ever here....no charge!!).
He is also the one that said 1000rpm is normal, but perhaps the cars here in North America are different???
FYI....in my investigation of my fans not coming on, I replaced every fuse, the resistor, both temp sensors, and both relays.
When my fuse (#8 in the manual) kept blowing, it was clear there was either too much load, or a short.
(Obviously it was a short.)
Good luck with your issue, I wish I could help more!!
conaero
Forum Owner
- Messages
- 34,693
Ok, an update on my. The reason why I was having overheating issues is the fan resistor had blown on the low speed fan. All I was getting was off or full blast. This causes the temperature to peak and troff.
Part ordered and thanks for the heads up on the idle. The book says 800-850 rpm but now I have this cooling issue sorted I am not so worried about it. I thought the high idle was causing the overheating.
Part ordered and thanks for the heads up on the idle. The book says 800-850 rpm but now I have this cooling issue sorted I am not so worried about it. I thought the high idle was causing the overheating.
conaero
Forum Owner
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- 34,693
Your pics are very small can you tell me where the fuses and relays are located.
Klive
Junior Member
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- 725
Hey Matt is this the resistor at the bottom of the rad? If it is, its a really common problem. Had it myself when Emblem pointed it out at Llandow. I've also seen it on another car at a meet once. New owners wouldn't recognise the fault as the fans go on and off as usual, just at the wrong speed. Dead easy to change.