4200 Gearbox Oil Change - What Oil?

rockits

Member
Messages
7,593
I'm going to change the gearbox oil in the 4200 hybrid as I can't see when it was last done. I have seen a few talk me through docs and seems a pretty easy DIY job. There are a few docs from Craig Waterman and others on the process.

Anyone have any recommendations or knowledge of the best oil brand and/or viscosity to us?
 

Panicracing

Junior Member
Messages
373
Easy job to do. Assume CC box. I always do mine every 12 months regardless of mileage. I use Motul gear 300 LS. 3 litres from Opie oils. Mention SM for discount.

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rockits

Member
Messages
7,593
Easy job to do. Assume CC box. I always do mine every 12 months regardless of mileage. I use Motul gear 300 LS. 3 litres from Opie oils. Mention SM for discount.

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Thanks. Will have a look at Opie. This 4200 is a manual but they are the same box so should be the same process & oil.
 

Panicracing

Junior Member
Messages
373
I assume the manual box is the same set up with integrated LSD. I do know Motul do 300 in lsd and non lsd. You can use either and I've always found the lsd works best. Opie will advise non lsd ???

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voicey

Junior Member
Messages
651
I actually have a white paper in draft on this very subject. In short please consider the following...

75W90
Fully synthetic
GL5
Designed for a transaxle
Deisgned for hypoid type diff
No friction modifier (unless the LSD is chattering)
Yellow metal safe


The motul oil referenced above is stated as having a friction modifier added - I wouldn't recommend using it unless the diff plates are chattering. The reason is because the FM can inhibit the syncro action. If you have a chattering diff then I would recommend putting in an oil without the FM and then adding small amounts of FM until the chattering goes away.


I recommend changing the oil every two years on a 4200. Please pull the little filter out to check for debris and be 100% sure you know how to get the level correct.
 

w1lde1

Junior Member
Messages
153
I actually have a white paper in draft on this very subject. In short please consider the following...

75W90
Fully synthetic
GL5
Designed for a transaxle
Deisgned for hypoid type diff
No friction modifier (unless the LSD is chattering)
Yellow metal safe


The motul oil referenced above is stated as having a friction modifier added - I wouldn't recommend using it unless the diff plates are chattering. The reason is because the FM can inhibit the syncro action. If you have a chattering diff then I would recommend putting in an oil without the FM and then adding small amounts of FM until the chattering goes away.


I recommend changing the oil every two years on a 4200. Please pull the little filter out to check for debris and be 100% sure you know how to get the level correct.
Would love to see the white paper especially if it's an easy job :) may need to change mine


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voicey

Junior Member
Messages
651
Would love to see the white paper especially if it's an easy job :) may need to change mine


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Sorry I should have been more speciifc - the paper is on gear oil selection for modern Ferrari and Maserati, not changing gear oil on any particular tipo.
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
30,681
...good luck trying to get the gearbox filter out too without shearing it off in the housing.

Voicey, any tips on that one. I couldn't get mine out so just left it.

Also used a bit of oil modifier too to quieten the diff on full lock after its been sat for a month.
 

voicey

Junior Member
Messages
651
As you found out, they are difficult to get out so people leave them. This gives it further chance to corrode in place.

You need to bite the bullet and force it out - it will break so order a new one before starting. Once it's out the corrosion can be cleaned up. Lube the new seals with red rubber grease and it'll slide in firmly.

So long as the new one is pulled out every couple of years then it'll be fine. It's a small price to pay to be able to check for debris.
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
30,681
Hey Paul, did you get your starter issues sorted out?

There was a door lock too to replace wasn't there?

The cars that just keep giving hey!
 

PaulCambio

Junior Member
Messages
137
Hey Paul, did you get your starter issues sorted out?

There was a door lock too to replace wasn't there?

The cars that just keep giving hey!
Hiya Matt - yep, got it all sorted mate. Needed a new (used from Eurospares) starter, and new door lock unit. My local garage in Ford did it for me, so not too expensive in the end. These cars certainly do keep on giving, but the smile I get every time I start her up makes it worth it!
 

rockits

Member
Messages
7,593
Thanks all.

Craig's write up suggested you need to remove or loosen and swivel the exhaust mount out the way to get to the gearbox filter. I guess you did that Matt and still couldn't remove the filter as it was rusted or wedged in?

Sounds like it is best to change the filter rather than clean it. I will look at the filter cost as guessing it is a pretty cheap part?
 

rockits

Member
Messages
7,593
Well....not so cheap....was expecting 20 odd squid.....more like £42.62!

Might see if the existing one is good or comes out easily to be cleaned up first. Can't see the point of replacing if there is nothing wrong with the existing one. It may have been changed recently or may not so guess I won't know until I take it out.
 

safrane

Member
Messages
12,792
There is a modified filter available from Maserati that does not suffer from sticking. Emblem fitted one on my last two coupes. If you can get yours out it is best to replace your old one with the new design.
 

safrane

Member
Messages
12,792
I don't know and the history is 120 miles away...won't be home until Friday...another week in London hotels.

Emblem will be able to tell you and could even post one to you.
 

voicey

Junior Member
Messages
651
This is what it will look like when you manage to get a stuck one out - you will destroy it in the process and then to top it off, it'll snap into two pieces leaving half in the gearbox. Fortunately the bit left behind is easily retrieved.

IMG_1645.jpg

And this is what you want to be on the lookout for...

IMG_1646.jpg


The "improvement" to the filter is to simply move the o-ring closer to the outside of the gearbox (the filter shown above is the old design). This prevents crud getting in and corrosion occurring. The part number is unchanged and I'm yet to get an old style filter so I would say the stock has been run out by now.