gs clutch collapse. need help please
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CraigWaterman11
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I did disconnect the quick disconnect coupler going to the clutch, I bled it via a might vac, basically a vacuum like for brake bleeding through the traditional bleed valve. It worked extremely well. I don't know about the two that your referencing I had three inside as it sits against the gear box that looks like these, there aren't any others that I see:
CraigWaterman11
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CatmanV2
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CraigWaterman11
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Digging through the workshop manual......since I can't cuss on the forum insert whatever choice word you have here, and I'm going to drop the entire gear box it looks like. I don't see any other choice. I would have to do it to check the clutch and PP anyway which I still don't think is the issue. I see no other alternative.
boomerang
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Those three screws indeed, not two.
Searched for some pics from back then;
By pushing the switches while priming the pump now and then, i could check the movement of the actuator and establish that no faults occured there.
Can you move all the slots inside the gearbox freely?
Searched for some pics from back then;
By pushing the switches while priming the pump now and then, i could check the movement of the actuator and establish that no faults occured there.
Can you move all the slots inside the gearbox freely?
CraigWaterman11
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Boomerang, I haven't checked if I could move the slots freely yet. It looks like you really had a system that worked though. To be honest I have three torque tube bolts left and then the carriage bolts at the rear of the gear box and it will be on the ground. When I pull the gear box I will take the Actuator off and check to see if I can move the gears freely. Also so did you fix your fifth gear issue? So you bled the Actuator with it off the gear box and through toggling the gears?
CraigWaterman11
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Okay guys NOW what do I do with it?!
Actually it was easier than I thought to pull this out. Definitely easier than pulling one from a front wheel drive car, and possibly even a rear wheel drive. In either case I think the only special tool I needed was a "S" 15mm wrench to get the bolts on the top of the torque tube.
Actually it was easier than I thought to pull this out. Definitely easier than pulling one from a front wheel drive car, and possibly even a rear wheel drive. In either case I think the only special tool I needed was a "S" 15mm wrench to get the bolts on the top of the torque tube.
CraigWaterman11
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Boomerang, I took the Actuator off early this morning.....2 am....I used a screw driver to shift the gear box through the gears as I turned the transaxle by hand. It's definitely not a shift fork or the like. The Royal Purple Synthetic gear oil I used about a year ago looked perfect, I couldn't detect a single metal shaving. The problem has to be in the clutch itself, the Actuator-Solenoid-, or TCU. Do you have a diagram on how you set up the board to toggle the different gears. Like a pin out or such. I can test it right off the car. The pump isn't an issue, I want to make sure I have the board set up as you did. I will bleed the actuator out as well. I think first I want to drop the torque tube and have a look at the clutch/PP. Something isn't adding up about all of this to me.
boomerang
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Hi Craig,
Found the board, but that doesnt tell me much.
If you look at the pictures closely, you can see wich pins in the connector are used.
Only the pumpwires (red) should be connected to the correct pin, the rest of the pins are not critical of course.
Take in mind that i used two red wires for the pump switch, as there flows quite some current through those wires.
You should use switches that return to open when you take your finger of.
Just push the buttons try and see what happens, the nose of the selector should be able to find all positions.
The thick red wire at the bottom of the "board" was connected to the positive pole of the battery, the negative pole can be connected to the housing of the gearbox.
Hope this helps.
Found the board, but that doesnt tell me much.
If you look at the pictures closely, you can see wich pins in the connector are used.
Only the pumpwires (red) should be connected to the correct pin, the rest of the pins are not critical of course.
Take in mind that i used two red wires for the pump switch, as there flows quite some current through those wires.
You should use switches that return to open when you take your finger of.
Just push the buttons try and see what happens, the nose of the selector should be able to find all positions.
The thick red wire at the bottom of the "board" was connected to the positive pole of the battery, the negative pole can be connected to the housing of the gearbox.
Hope this helps.
CraigWaterman11
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Okay thank you, I was looking at the individual solenoids I think I can unwrap them an find out where in the connector they go to. I do have a service manual that tells me some of the connector but it's mostly missing for whatever reason. I don't know why but they seem to have left that data out of the service record. I appreciate your help.
boomerang
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By pushing the switches while priming the pump now and then, i could check the movement of the actuator and establish that no faults occured there.
Can you move all the slots inside the gearbox freely?
Just connect the wires according to this picture at the connector, high left corner two red ones to the switch that activates the pump, for the rest of the switches it is not to important wich wire is on wich connector, as long as you keep them on the pins shown at the picture.
good luck
CraigWaterman11
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Yes there is another thread on replacing the clutch. The long and short of it was it was an Actuator issue. Additionally I needed to change the clutch out because of other issues that cropped up. If you look for the clutch replacement thread you will find a very detailed thread about it here in this forum.