Why does my engine tick after a good thrashing?

[BL330]

Can someone tell me why I get a ticking sound after high revs?
The sound goes away over night or after application of Liqui Moly Stop Tappet Noise
The sales guy at my repairer says a lot of Gransports have it.

 

[jluis]

Not sure about the maser specificaly but if it has hydraulic tappets they might need replacing.
I supose the variator could make a similar sound

 

[Gp79]

When was the oil last changed and was it the correct spec?

Worth trying that first before committing to any real expense.

 

[VMSRTI]

Can someone tell me why I get a ticking sound after high revs?
The sound goes away over night or after application of Liqui Moly Stop Tappet Noise
The sales guy at my repairer says a lot of Gransports have it.

Havent noticed any ticking on mine. So it stops when you switch off engine and when engine is cool? But if you re start when warm/hot it continues to tick?

 

[BL330]

Havent noticed any ticking on mine. So it stops when you switch off engine and when engine is cool? But if you re start when warm/hot it continues to tick?

Only happens after a hard run, and can hang around the next day or two. I do have an oil service coming up in 2000 km, but it does happen with relatively fresh oil.
Is this not as common as I was told?

 

[Cox]

Does the ticking correlate to the rev speed of the engine. I.e. The faster you rev the engine, the faster it ticks?

I have had ticking injectors in my alfa before, but that was all the time and liquid moly wouldn't cause that noise to stop, so you can probably rule that out.

As mentioned, to me it sounds like a bit of wear to the cams or on of the tappets that is aggrevated when the engine warms up and everything starts expanding. Moly would shut it up until it starts to wear off and you get more metal to metal contact which could cause the noise you are hearing. But then again, usually tappy cams quiten down after the engine warms up and the oil gets thinner, so i could be wrong...

Get someone to rev the engine when it is warm and making the noise and then see if you can hear what parts of the engine it is coming from. If it is at very high revs you might struggle to hear over the general engine noise.

As suggested i would use the correct, recommended maserati oil to see if that helps first, this could well do the trick. Then if the problem persists look into it a bit further or take it to a specialist.

Sounds like you're not the only one that has given the car a good thrash, but it is a GS after all. What kind of mileage has it covered?

It doesn't sound like a major problem, so i wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Try the oil first and let us know how you get on...

 

[conaero]

Thats bull that they all do that.

First thing to consider is where the noise is coming from.

It could be the exhaust cooling down and yes that would be normal but if its coming from the engine this is not normal and would suspect oil starvation and hydraulic tappets. If you imagine after a good thrashing the engineis at its hottest and the internals are at their maximium expansion.

Hows your hot oil pressure at idle?

 

[rockits]

I agree with Matt without hearing it or knowing what it is about possible oil starvation at top end. I had a similar issue with my old R129 SL60 and that was common in those M119 V8 as cam oilers would break down and need replacing. They were top end little nylon ish tubes that would direct oil to cams/top of engine. When they broke the oil would not be getting to where it needed to and gave a noisy tappety sound. I had them replaced and all was perfect again.

Not sure if the Maser V8 has this or similar? However could be a litlle oil starvation in an area maybe. Just a hunch

 

[Gp79]

Can you put a clip on YouTube with a link then we can try to help further.

Just changed the variator oil filters on mine, these could need doing, and ideal time if the rocker cover gaskets have started to weep. They didn't look too dirty but while I had the cover off thought best to do.

 

[BL330]

Can you put a clip on YouTube with a link then we can try to help further.

Just changed the variator oil filters on mine, these could need doing, and ideal time if the rocker cover gaskets have started to weep. They didn't look too dirty but while I had the cover off thought best to do.

This could be the clue. The sound is from idle to 2,000 revs and yes it corresponds with increasing revs.
Over that the noises of the motor take over and it goes away, until you idle again.
Next day it could be gone, or until you feed more Liquimoly stop tappet noise.
I'll get my Indi to investigate at the next service. They always run a Liquimoly engine oil flush, but they might have to take the covers off and look into these variators and filters.
Oil is solid 5 when driving, and 3 at idle I think.

 

[Zep]

Does it sound like all 48 lifters are tapping or only one or two? If one lifter is failing to pump up it could just be a little bit of crud in the oil passage or slightly out of tolerance. If it is wearing it would be a bigger issue.

Liquid Moly is an extra pressure additive for oil which cushions any areas where the oil film might be shearing, so might be disguising the problem rather than fixing it.


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[spydercc2002]

At high revs the camshafts can cause air bubbles into the hydraulic tappet lifters. This can cause the noise at idle and low oil pressure when water temp goes up to 90 ºC. Especally older engines with worn piston rings will have more blow-by gases condensing into the oil and makes it thin. Hard driven, or race cars, should have thicker oil. Castrol Edge Sport 10W/60 is a good one. But my farorite is LUCAS fully synthetic 10W/60. LUCAS have an additives reducing air bubbles + Zink for cold start lubrication.

 

[Andyk]

Well I suppose if you went for a run a knackered yourself out when you got home you would panting like a good un......Your car is doing the same thing I suppose.

 

[Fat Arnie]

The 4200 does suffer a problem with the air/water oil cooler allowing water into the oil system which initially manifests as a vaklve problem on the left bank. After a while (but often too late) if gives a VVC failure code in the engine logs. Worth checking as I am not certain it triggers a CEL straight away.

Hopefully its not this. Hydraulic tappets do not generally wear, but their enemy, particularly with more aggresive cams is oil contamination. The 4200 cam profile is close to the limit of what is reasonble to use without solid lifters.

They are a great little place for oil to reside indefinately as an oil change does not flush them through.

Sadly to eliminate you will need to remove the cam covers and cams, and take out each tappet and clean the hydraulic mechanism and feeds. There is most probably a piece of crud where the engine has been running dirty oil or a stray bit of non anaerobic sealant from engine repair or even original build getting into the oilways that feed the tappets, restricting flow. The tappets are only £10 each so it could be easier to replace them.

When you drive the car hard, the oil thins and flow blockages can cause micro aeriation of the oil. So the tappets do not fill quite as they might. Be aware the introduction of air is minimal in the extreme - 0.01cc will give a noisy tappet like this with only 0.01mm of excess valve clearance.

 

[BL330]

The 4200 does suffer a problem with the air/water oil cooler allowing water into the oil system which initially manifests as a vaklve problem on the left bank. After a while (but often too late) if gives a VVC failure code in the engine logs. Worth checking as I am not certain it triggers a CEL straight away.

Hopefully its not this. Hydraulic tappets do not generally wear, but their enemy, particularly with more aggresive cams is oil contamination. The 4200 cam profile is close to the limit of what is reasonble to use without solid lifters.

They are a great little place for oil to reside indefinately as an oil change does not flush them through.

Sadly to eliminate you will need to remove the cam covers and cams, and take out each tappet and clean the hydraulic mechanism and feeds. There is most probably a piece of crud where the engine has been running dirty oil or a stray bit of non anaerobic sealant from engine repair or even original build getting into the oilways that feed the tappets, restricting flow. The tappets are only £10 each so it could be easier to replace them.

When you drive the car hard, the oil thins and flow blockages can cause micro aeriation of the oil. So the tappets do not fill quite as they might. Be aware the introduction of air is minimal in the extreme - 0.01cc will give a noisy tappet like this with only 0.01mm of excess valve clearance.

Great post Arnie, exactly the expert opinion I knew was out there.
Yes unfortunately the sound is the left bank.
Looks like my coming tax return has found a purpose. Wife will be impressed.

 

[Fat Arnie]

Bruce, Realise he's the other side of the world, but Mike Roberts at Roberts Aerospace http://www.cars.robertsaerospace.com/ can give you a definitive on what to look for to determine you have the water in oil. I know that if its caught early its fixable. Leave it and your engine becomes lunched.