Professional Detail - Is it worth it?

Look at the difference to this paintwork, tell me its not worth it?

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Is it worth buying a bog standard detailing kit at £250 and doing myself, I'm a bit of a perfectionist and likelearning new skills but would my attempt be futile?
 
FF1078 said:
Is it worth buying a bog standard detailing kit at £250 and doing myself, I'm a bit of a perfectionist and likelearning new skills but would my attempt be futile?
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Thats what I did, i enjoy doing it.

I would say that my results are 85% of that of a pro detailer, I dont quite get it all out but I am still learning.

You should give colour sanding ago, I know the thought of taking sandpaper to your paintwork might scare the bejesus out of some but if the panel does require repaint, give it a go, whats the worst can happen?

Soak 3000 grip wet and dry in a bucked of clean water for an hour, build up the touch up paint over a couple of weeks till its proud, then flatten with lots of water, then polish back up with a MOP. I put body shop tape tight to the bigger chips whilst I knock most of the overpaint off then remove at the end...just gives you more chance of not sanding through the clearcoat.

Also, I did my dealer trick I was told a few years back that works amazing on black cars....get a permanent marker, scribble all over the stone chips then use Tcut or similar petroleum based cutting compound and polish it up. Did one wing with Chipex and the other with the marker pen and it was quicker and better with virtually all the little white dots gone.
 
Conaero said:
Thats what I did, i enjoy doing it.
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Im the same Matt.

I dont believe I get anywhere near the results these above chaps get, but its very therapeutic if/when you have the time to do it yourself. Sadly, I don't get the time at the moment.
 
From my research so far I think a machine polisher (dual action) is essential. Dual action means safety in not cutting through the clear coat whilst much more effective than trying this by hand. I am getting close to deciding to go down this route as I like learning new things also.

Does anyone have a view on whether the Meguires machine is any good?
 
I have the Meguiars G220 and it works very well with the different cut pads and polishes - always impressive results! It's a lot of hard work though to do it properly. I have had to spread it over 2 or 3 weekends working on 2 or 3 panels at a time.
 
Conaero said:
You should give colour sanding ago, I know the thought of taking sandpaper to your paintwork might scare the bejesus out of some but if the panel does require repaint, give it a go, whats the worst can happen?
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One of my ex-girlfriends once thought she would surprise me by cleaning the car whilst I was away. She used a brillo pad to remove some of the more deep-seated dirt.

Just thought I would mention that when I saw the words "what's the worst that can happen".
 
You're braver than me Matt - I wouldn't use a rotary myself as the experts advise more skill and experience is required to use one. I'd be worried about how much pressure/RPM to use especially on the plastic sections, last thing I'd want to do is burn through the paint. So although it may take a longer I opted for the DA.

Are you going to use it to polish the GS soon? If so look forward to some before and after shots - the difference is amazing once the swirls and marring have been removed.
 
I have never had a problem with it, used it on 3 cars. I dont go heavy at it, and I let the weight of the machine do the work, keep it wetted and moving.

Loads of how too's on Youtube too.

It has 1-5 speed setting, I work for cutting at 2, moving up to 3 and go to 4 for final buffing with the lambswool bonnet.
 
Conaero said:
I have never had a problem with it, used it on 3 cars. I dont go heavy at it, and I let the weight of the machine do the work, keep it wetted and moving.

Loads of how too's on Youtube too.

It has 1-5 speed setting, I work for cutting at 2, moving up to 3 and go to 4 for final buffing with the lambswool bonnet.
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Hmm, tempting. Cheers, Matt

C
 
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