GranSport clutch PIS
- Thread starter FelixV
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CraigWaterman11
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Actually I stated that your KISS point isn't affected by clutch wear. I didn't state that the KISS point could not be moved or adjusted again during the duration of the clutch's life. Most of the time people adjust the KISS point and leave it. But here's an illustrative photo of a new clutch (clutch on the top) and a worn clutch (the one on the bottom). The red triangle below also noting what I was explaining above.
MAF's situation was very unusual indeed seems like a write glitch to me.
Mine fires up at 1200 and idles at 1000 when warm. I can remember when i bought it, i told my engineer that i wanted hard gear changes, and when setting the PIS lower, he also raised the rpm. This could be an aswer, but i cannot tell for sure, as it's been many years.
What do you think? Does higher idle rpm help with harder changes?
CraigWaterman11
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Well you know I drive the GS all the time now but the Spyder is a 4200 and it idles at 750 or very close to it. The only reason I was asking is because I have my Kiss point set down to start to engage the clutch at 1000-1100 rpms.
If my idle was already there I would have to readjust the Kiss point a bit but I bet I definitely could have a knee jerking launch off the line everytime. I didnt have the scan tool at the time I flashed the ecu of the Spyder but in retrospect I think I would have adjusted idle a bit. I think I could get a more consistent clutch engagement in bringing those two to match each other better. You more than likely do have a harder, quicker clutch engagement because of it.
If my idle was already there I would have to readjust the Kiss point a bit but I bet I definitely could have a knee jerking launch off the line everytime. I didnt have the scan tool at the time I flashed the ecu of the Spyder but in retrospect I think I would have adjusted idle a bit. I think I could get a more consistent clutch engagement in bringing those two to match each other better. You more than likely do have a harder, quicker clutch engagement because of it.
Always knew one day the clutch was going be a problem on my GS. I sent it in for a service and they said they reset the clutch PIS and said the clutch is going to need replacing soon. Got home OK but second time out since and it turn to custard as needs to have 2000rpm to make it engage and when you change gear I need to wait a second for it to engage before I put my foot down other wise it spins up. I have talked to them since and they said adjusts are at maximum other wise the system will shut down. Doesn't sound quite right, the car has 41000k on it , so I an looking for another clutch, is anyone's clutch better than the other or is just down to price.
I would have it rechecked by another engineer, to ensure it's the clutch and not the re-adjustment.
CraigWaterman11
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It does sound like classic symptoms of needing a clutch replacement but I don't want to state that unequivocally until you have a chance to answer these other gentlemen's questions. There's a few details necessary. I can say that mileage though important doesn't rule out clutch replacement.
Finally, whatever you do only use an OEM clutch. The headaches we've had on the U.S. forum from people trying to use re-manufactured clutches has been mind twisting. This won't be your common friction disc clutch. When the friction disc material is off by mm it matters. If the clutch springs don't have the proper spring resistances it matters. They designed the car for a very specific clutch and I've not seen one case in the U.S where there weren't headaches worth hundreds of dollars to make it work when it's not OEM.
Finally, whatever you do only use an OEM clutch. The headaches we've had on the U.S. forum from people trying to use re-manufactured clutches has been mind twisting. This won't be your common friction disc clutch. When the friction disc material is off by mm it matters. If the clutch springs don't have the proper spring resistances it matters. They designed the car for a very specific clutch and I've not seen one case in the U.S where there weren't headaches worth hundreds of dollars to make it work when it's not OEM.
It is the original clutch. Work done by the Christchurch Maserati Sales and Service Dealer. When I took it in I was not surprised they had adjusted it, but like to think I looked after the clutch as it is a known problem. It would take up and you start moving then grab, not really a problem and once moving totally ok.
glad you mentioned it, cause i was looking into kevlar clutch..
CraigWaterman11
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The Kevlar clutches I've heard about do two very specific things when trying to be adjusted for use. They either grab too quick and stall the car out, or they continuously slip and don't engage the clutch like it's suppose to. I've not heard anyone fine tune it with a sweet spot. People are using the Pega clutch person out of Florida that is Turkish I believe. He also rebuilds actuators. I believe it's likely because people are rebuilding the Kevlar clutch with the wrong springs in the clutch plate and they don't give enough to make up for the Kevlar material that's being used but that's only one problem in the U.S. with rebuilds........
The other problems that two gentlemen had in the U.S. is the friction material is off in thickness, and the material isn't quite like OEM. After one gentleman dumped thousands of dollars into his Quat he finally somewhat got it to work by programming the car with 25% clutch wear from the beginning and that still didn't solve all the issues he had. Another guy used the same type of clutch in his Quat and still doesn't have reverse regardless what he does.
