Front Tie Rod removal

Mr S

Mr S

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Cant seem to find any guide or pictures on the forum, but want to see if I can remove my front tie rod to get it on a bench to remove a stuck locking nut. This halted progress with adjusting the geo on the front a while back, so keen to get it sorted. Just wondering if anyone has done this previously and had any pictures or suggestions etc. Are there any special tools required?

Cheers
 
I did it. You can get to it with a big adjustable spanner. Unclip the boot at both ends, pull it toward the hub. Lock the steering over to extend the side you need to remove and get the spanner on it. You’ll need a ball joint splitter for the outer as the hub is alloy so you can’t “Edd China” it with a big hammer.
 
Hmmm... As I (non English mother-tong) understand the tie rod is the rod that performs the steering?
I hit it out with a hammer on the side and unscrewed it in the center part. Then count the turns when unscrewing.
I turned it in again the same windings and the alignment is still perfect!
 
Zep said:
I did it. You can get to it with a big adjustable spanner. Unclip the boot at both ends, pull it toward the hub. Lock the steering over to extend the side you need to remove and get the spanner on it. You’ll need a ball joint splitter for the outer as the hub is alloy so you can’t “Edd China” it with a big hammer.
Click to expand...
Cheers Zep, I assume you need to remove the trackrod from the hub to fully unscrew the tie rod from it and the steering rack.
 
Boomerang_GT said:
Hmmm... As I (non English mother-tong) understand the tie rod is the rod that performs the steering?
I hit it out with a hammer on the side and unscrewed it in the center part. Then count the turns when unscrewing.
I turned it in again the same windings and the alignment is still perfect!
Click to expand...
Hitting the hub to release the ball joint is a very bad idea....
:confused:
 
Mr S said:
Cheers Zep, I assume you need to remove the trackrod from the hub to fully unscrew the tie rod from it and the steering rack.
Click to expand...

No, but it’s a pain in the **** unscrewing it from the rod end if you don’t. Are you saying that you can unscrew the inner rod from the end easily but the nut is seized on the rod? If so, I have a plan…
 
We would unwind the rod from the trackrod end, remove the steering gaiter then use large parrot nose pliers to unscrew the inner joint from the rack.

97853
 
Good Kit Channellock from the USA got several pieces of their kit approaching 40 years of age now.
 
Zep said:
No, but it’s a pain in the **** unscrewing it from the rod end if you don’t. Are you saying that you can unscrew the inner rod from the end easily but the nut is seized on the rod? If so, I have a plan…
Click to expand...
Im going to take it somewhere local for another geo set up, but armed with this new tie rod and lock nut. If they say they cant do it, then il reveal i have the replacement and they can fit it and set it up.
 
philw696 said:
Good Kit Channellock from the USA got several pieces of their kit approaching 40 years of age now.
Click to expand...
Bloody good those pliers. I had to file the teeth back a few times when they started to slip a bit.

One of those tools only the garages seem to know about.
 
Boomerang_GT said:
It went out with little force!
One hit and it was out.
I strongly doubt it did any damage ;)
If I had to use force, I had used a tool.
Click to expand...
I'll take your word for it my friend...!
IIRC, the tie rod end is not tapered on the steering rods....but the hub carrier is only cast aluminium ( made by Brembo) Aluminium is the important thing to note here. YouTube is populated by home mechanics ( I admit, that description does fit myself to a tee! ) - but helpful folk who show us how to hit steel components to release such things as ball joints...Its a very bad idea on an aumium unit.
I know from my own experience that what appears as small crack situated only in the raised and narrow material above the bolt and washer seat is very easy to cause with a hammer. I ignored mine when I was told it was there.( Not me m'Lud..honest) "Keep an eye on it" I thought ! It is a stress notch that develops into a full blown fracture however......Purposeful braking from about 90, I could definitely tell it was weak..! And that's not a good thing as it tells me it's too late. You wont know. And the lesson I learned was dont put off replacing them...little cracks become big cracks very quickly....
As a biker...we often query the condition of our crash helmets. We are told to replace these expensive items every x number of years....by the manufacturers. I wonder if its really necessary...Sometimes, yes. If it's been dopped perhaps.Or you were brave/dumb enough to buy used ( I wont even do helmets through courier any more!)..In Germany, I understand you can get them x-rayed to see what their condition is really...Not just- "looked ok to me !!"
Anyhoo...IMO. Dont hit your feckin' ally hub carrier. And if you do..probably dont recommend others with less insight, perhaps people like me, that it's okay to do it on these cars..
No offence...
 
Holy ****!
That’s some serious stuff!
I never gave the advice to hit the carrier.
Just on the rod!
Bing bong and out with the rod.
No X-Ray or scientists needed to be involved in this action.
 
Boomerang_GT said:
Holy ****!
That’s some serious stuff!
I never gave the advice to hit the carrier.
Just on the rod!
Bing bong and out with the rod.
No X-Ray or scientists needed to be involved in this action.
Click to expand...
Fair play...!
As soon as I see the word "hammer" in conjunction with tie rod, ball joint, Maserati...I cant think anything good can come of it ! lol
I ve seen a few carriers. Most carry the flat spots of having been struck..! o_O
 
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