philw696
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Every Car is different to get the alignment right.Why are so many shims needed?
Every Car is different to get the alignment right.Why are so many shims needed?
Just expected tolerances to have gotten better, is this the same on the Japanese stuff ?Every Car is different to get the alignment right.
Possibly on something like a Nissan GT-R or a Honda NSX but the first time I came across the shims was working on Maseratis.Just expected tolerances to have gotten better, is this the same on the Japanese stuff ?
My thoughts exactly. These shims seem to be for Caster angle adjustment, please correct me if I'm wrong.Why are so many shims needed?
Thanks for the input, I think . I think it will take me a good few hours but considering I can't get a replacement 'off the shelf ' I don't feel as if I'm under pressure. Will definitely consider ARB bushes, do you recommend OEM or Polybush type?
The offending part is now out and ready for replacement. Not too bad a job actually, if Maserati had measured their bolt lengths it would have been done in no time. The biggest problem was removing one of the pivot bolts (rearward most) which fouls on the underbody. I lowered the subframe and it squeezed out. Bring on the replacement.....please.
I'm looking to do this as I need to replace both arms and the ARB rubbers. Just curious if this is something I can tackle and what lifting gear I might require? I'm hoping to just use what I have which is a few jacks and stands etc. Am I mad? If its too much I'll take it in somewhere, any idea what they might charge to drop the frame and replace all the parts?
Best investment you can make if you have the space even better is having twoThanks Zep, I'm gonna get a gearbox jack for this, a lift would be lovely, I might take photosof me bleeding and swearingwhile I do this.
Best investment you can make if you have the space even better is having two
I replaced the upper right rear, using axle stands and trolley jack. The awkward part is removing the rearmost pivot bolt from the control arm, it fouls on the boot floor area of bodywork. I undid the rear subframe mounting bolts on that side and supported the lowering with a small trolley jack, just enough to wiggle the bolt out.Thanks Zep, I'm gonna get a gearbox jack for this, a lift would be lovely, I might take photosof me bleeding and swearingwhile I do this.
Fair play to you especially if you're doing it on the floor.Well I'm now knee deep in this. Sub frame dropped, ARB, Coils and Sub Frame mounts in for blasting and coating. I've new ARB bushes, new upper control arms, new drop links, new brake pipes and new brake hoses to fit... I'm also going to POR15 the subframe while its down. Fun fun fun
Things that have gone wrong, snapped bolt in hub for the ABS sensor, snapped brake hose coupling in a brake calliper, one control arm bolt is seized and needs cutting out, destroyed both seal rings in the exhausts at the tail pipe join and the flanges fell to bits too.
I wonder if its worth bothering with it all sometimes!
What year is your 4200?Well I'm now knee deep in this. Sub frame dropped, ARB, Coils and Sub Frame mounts in for blasting and coating. I've new ARB bushes, new upper control arms, new drop links, new brake pipes and new brake hoses to fit... I'm also going to POR15 the subframe while its down. Fun fun fun
Things that have gone wrong, snapped bolt in hub for the ABS sensor, snapped brake hose coupling in a brake calliper, one control arm bolt is seized and needs cutting out, destroyed both seal rings in the exhausts at the tail pipe join and the flanges fell to bits too.
I wonder if its worth bothering with it all sometimes!