clonk from rear

[CatmanV2]

We shall see. I wonder if it's worth getting a pair of 'bones from David Askew or similar, and getting the rods from them re-furbed so they can simply be fitted quicker.

Does anyone have any?

C

 

[griffo]

Thanks guys,
All good suggestions. I'll dive back under the car today and let you know if I come to any conclusions. I did check the Exhaust system and that seems tight and solid.
cheers

 

[griffo]

Another question,
I have identified the rear tie rods that have been mentioned but they feel tight with no play (rear of car jacked up and wheels off). How can I check whether there is an issue with them?
cheers

 

[CatmanV2]

Just FYI David Askew has good, used lower wishbones at £185, and can supply the tie rod rose joint for £53. Apparently they can be pressed in.

C

 

[Parisien]

C.....not entirely sure about 2nd hand stuff...better to repair your own arm if possible IMHO

P

 

[philw696]

David Askew is an absolute gentleman posting me my rose joint out for my rear lower arm its a straight forward repair.
Phil.

 

[CatmanV2]

I see your point, Frank. I've bought some stuff from David, and if he says its 'good' used, I'm inclined to expect it to be more good than used
However, my intention would be to buy them with the aim of refurbing the existing ones as spares, and getting a quick turn around.

A plan with risks, it must be said. However, I'm hoping it'll be drop links or roll bar bush, and I can DIY it anyway. Always the optimist

C

 

[ncslee]

Hi

If it is the rear rose joint you can feel it better when the wheel is on, just jack the car a little them pull the wheel side to side to see if there is pay in the joint. See other thread steering & suspension for part numbers on stainless steel joints.
Lee

 

[CatmanV2]

Hi

If it is the rear rose joint you can feel it better when the wheel is on, just jack the car a little them pull the wheel side to side to see if there is pay in the joint. See other thread steering & suspension for part numbers on stainless steel joints.
Lee

Thanks, Lee. Most helpful.

C

 

[Klive]

Just to throw another part in. Top of the shock, part 13 on the second diagram. I replaced this on mine albeit on the front. This stopped my clonking.

Coming back to the back (!). Catman I've got a couple of old wishbones that I scavanged the tie rods from.

 

[saintetienne]

Just to add something else - but it maybe the shock absorber itself is weak or failing

 

[CatmanV2]

Ooooerr. I'm not sure I like being approached from that angle, Klive

I assume, however, that you've not got tie rods for them, so their use would be limited to a situation where the tie rod was OK, but the ball joint on the wishbone was knackered?

Cheers

C

 

[CatmanV2]

Just to add something else - but it maybe the shock absorber itself is weak or failing

Thanks for this!

C

 

[saintetienne]

Sorry to be the doomeister but I have seen this often - mind you quite cheap to buy or recon now ! is the any trace of leakage or is it slow to settle on that corner ?

 

[CatmanV2]

Not that I can see, in terms of leakage, although I've not got the wheel off. Certainly no apparent slowness on the old fashioned bounce test.
It creaks as it settles, with no apparent movement, so I'm currently leaning to a ball type joint or the anti-roll bar bush.

C

 

[saintetienne]

You maybe lucky - if it was me it would most certainly be the shocker !

 

[CatmanV2]

Well, I live in hope

C

 

[griffo]

If it is the rear rose joint you can feel it better when the wheel is on, just jack the car a little them pull the wheel side to side to see if there is pay in the joint.

Thanks for that. Tried it and there does not seem to be any play. I plan changing the roll bar bushes today (if I can get at the bolts, which not very accessible).

cheers

 

[CatmanV2]

Hmmm

It's stopped.

Totally.

Stone trapped in something, perhaps? I'll have a poke next weekend if I can.

C

 

[mas]

Hi,
I had a knocking noise at the back rear suspension when driving off. It was caused by the driver side upper rear control arm. The ball joint had play in it. Which means you need to replace the whole rear control arm.
I did have some play in the rose joint which is on the rear bottom control arm (its the narrow connection rod that's part of the rear bottom control arm), you can get a kit to replace rose joint, which is what I did too.
If your knocking sound heavy then I doubt it's the bottom rose joint.