CEL...Don't Panic....DON'T PANIC.

[Soenvious]

First run out in the 4200CC for a couple of weeks and OMG a CEL followed by the Gearbox Fault light.
The car drove ok and gears changed up and down the box, in sport mode and out of sport mode.
Managed to read the codes, with my cheapo code reader, which were two clutch position faults. I cleared the codes, switched the ignition off for 5 minutes and everything restarted fine.
Reached my destination, parked up and went for something to eat, returned to the car, started, without any faults, then cut out after 5 seconds.
Tried to read codes again but none detected, isolated battery for about 20 minutes and no joy. Car won't turn over and Gearbox Fault light showing, with warning bleeps.
Ideas on a postcard please....
Very nice AA man took me home. (see low-loader post)

 

[CatmanV2]

How many miles on your clutch?

C

 

[Soenvious]

How many miles on your clutch?

C

Clutch was replaced by reputable specialist, Aug 2020, I've done just over 2k miles since. I may ring them tomorrow to see if they have any ideas. Don't really want to shell out for another clutch change.

 

[CatmanV2]

Clutch was replaced by reputable specialist, Aug 2020, I've done just over 2k miles since. I may ring them tomorrow to see if they have any ideas. Don't really want to shell out for another clutch change.

No indeed. I'd suggest a better scanner, but other than that, not much I'm afraid

C

 

[Soenvious]

Had the battery on Ctek charger and showing stage 4, (ready). Tried starting but no joy. A weird thing is the oil pressure gauge is showing 4.5bar, all other gauges reading ok. Hope it's not an earthing fault.

 

[conaero]

Sounds like a failed pump. Do you get any priming sounds from the back of the car when you open the door? Ignition on, not running can you select 1st or R?

Sounds like it’s in gear and can’t select neutral so permission to start is denied.

Does the car roll…handbrake off.

What were the previous codes?

Also, check the battery terminals are tight and don’t move and the piggyback cables bolted to the positive terminal.

 

[Soenvious]

Sounds like a failed pump. Do you get any priming sounds from the back of the car when you open the door? Ignition on, not running can you select 1st or R?

Sounds like it’s in gear and can’t select neutral so permission to start is denied.

Does the car roll…handbrake off.

What were the previous codes?

Also, check the battery terminals are tight and don’t move and the piggyback cables bolted to the positive terminal.

Pump primes when opening door, tested several times. Cannot select 1st or R. car rolls freely and gear indicator shows N.
Dozy me didn't make a note of the codes before I cleared them, think P08..... something.

 

[conaero]

Disconnect the 1&R unit and try again assuming battery is all tight. Is it floppy or springs correctly and you have to still lift to get reverse?

Brake lights on constantly or do they work as should?

 

[Soenvious]

Disconnect the 1&R unit and try again assuming battery is all tight. Is it floppy or springs correctly and you have to still lift to get reverse?

Brake lights on constantly or do they work as should?

Car is outside garage at present and it's getting dark, so, will complete the checklist tomorrow when I can get it inside.
Thanks for your input. Phew! it's been a busy day.

 

[safrane]

Had a similar issue where the system was over pressured.

 

[CatmanV2]

Had a similar issue where the system was over pressured.

I wish I could refuse to start in the morning when I feel over pressured!

C

 

[happydaze]

Don't worry Jones, Mr Mainwaring is not about to PANIC...

 

[Soenvious]

Conaero, worked through your check list and all ok. I'll check the wiring to the clutch position sensor under the car and then it's time for a proper scan tool.

 

[Soenvious]

This morning I checked the level in the hydraulic reservoir for the CC system, it was approx. 20mm down from the top, so I guess that rules that one out.
I think the real problem is the clutch position sensor but without re-checking the codes I'm not 100% sure. I've spoken to a tech at a local specialist and he thinks I can change the sensor without pulling the clutch out, so that maybe my next option.

 

[Gp79]

This morning I checked the level in the hydraulic reservoir for the CC system, it was approx. 20mm down from the top, so I guess that rules that one out.
I think the real problem is the clutch position sensor but without re-checking the codes I'm not 100% sure. I've spoken to a tech at a local specialist and he thinks I can change the sensor without pulling the clutch out, so that maybe my next option.

Yes the clutch position sensor can be changed without too much work, it should be easier if yours has not long had a clutch as the biggest battle was removing rusty exhaust fittings which hadn't moved in years on mine

Its in the thread on my project 4200 below:

https://www.sportsmaserati.com/index.php?threads/project-4200.35965/

 

[Soenvious]

Yes the clutch position sensor can be changed without too much work, it should be easier if yours has not long had a clutch as the biggest battle was removing rusty exhaust fittings which hadn't moved in years on mine

Its in the thread on my project 4200 below:

https://www.sportsmaserati.com/index.php?threads/project-4200.35965/

Gp79, Thanks for the info.
Tried to search for any post on the forum relating to this but I had no luck.
Hopefully things will come undone relatively easily since I've only covered 2K+ miles since the new clutch.
Was the cable routing an issue when you did yours?

 

[Soenvious]

Problem solved with the installation of a new Clutch Position Sensor. Not driven the car yet but with ignition ON, no fault lights showing. Car will start and tick-over and I can select 1st, neutral and reverse.
My solution, although not everybody's cup of tea, was to move the steering rack heat shield out of the way and then cut one of the slats from the clutch inspection bracket with a mini grinder, this left just enough room to undo the cap heads and remove the sensor. Routing the cable on the outside of the clutch housing was also the easier option.

 

[Gp79]

Nice job, realise I missed your question above. I managed to run the replacement sensor cable through the normal hole in the bell housing.
At next clutch change it can be run factory.
What does your clutch wear show now?

 

[Soenvious]

Nice job, realise I missed your question above. I managed to run the replacement sensor cable through the normal hole in the bell housing.
At next clutch change it can be run factory.
What does your clutch wear show now?

That's something else for me to check, don't know, is the answer at present but I've covered less than 3k miles since renewal. I think maybe the sensor wasn't changed at that time......... but I'll never know.

 

[Gp79]

With such few miles since a new clutch it can’t be worn much so can be set up as so.
Yes annoying if sensor wasn’t changed as so easy to do when all apart.
But then it seems the F1 sensor is a pretty rare failure.