Can I disconnect my headlight washers?
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rossyl
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Quite sure that it is a UK legal requirement to have headlight washers with Xenons. No idea about Oz.
CraigWaterman11
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You can do what Catman suggested, as well, when you remove your front bumper cover there will be a wiring harness you can just disconnect from each side that goes to each washer. You can just tuck it away, or wrap it up with electrical tape and then tuck it away just to make sure water doesn't possibly get in it and sit. I had some photos of my bumper cover removed when I repainted the entire Spyder, these are some with the electrical connectors taped up. Sorry I had better ones but my phone was damaged so badly that I couldn't recover them. Hope these help a little at least to show you they can be disconnected pretty easily. The last photo is with it back on and the halos I installed in the lights:
CraigWaterman11
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According to these guys on the Bimmer Forum it is a requirement in Australia as well.......sorry friend, the pics I guess do you no good at all....
http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=768094
http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=768094
CraigWaterman11
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Lol, you know, I always wondered what that was when I was on my sport bike, I would drive along side someone and get this shower that looked pretty familiar like windshield wiper fluid! No one's wipers were going, but I never thought to check the wheel arches!!
CraigWaterman11
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anything is do able my friend.....what bumper is it that doesn't have the holes cut in it already? Can you post some pics so maybe we can help out?
safrane
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The top section of the face-lift bumper is the same as the classic shape, it only starts to chage around the 'mouth' and below.
The holes for the washers are generic and I suspect the underside of this area will have a shadow line where the holes should be which could be cut with pad-saw. They also have a cover as you know so the hole is not visable if it is not perfect.
The projectors however may have some fixing at the rear of the bumper but these could be removed and fixed to the new one using epoxi resin glue.
If you go this way please post some photos of the work as you go ahead.
The holes for the washers are generic and I suspect the underside of this area will have a shadow line where the holes should be which could be cut with pad-saw. They also have a cover as you know so the hole is not visable if it is not perfect.
The projectors however may have some fixing at the rear of the bumper but these could be removed and fixed to the new one using epoxi resin glue.
If you go this way please post some photos of the work as you go ahead.
safrane
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- Messages
- 16,896
The top section of the face-lift bumper is the same as the classic shape, it only starts to chage around the 'mouth' and below.
The holes for the washers are generic and I suspect the underside of this area will have a shadow line where the holes should be which could be cut with pad-saw. They also have a cover as you know so the hole is not visable if it is not perfect.
The projectors however may have some fixing at the rear of the bumper but these could be removed and fixed to the new one using epoxi resin glue.
If you go this way please post some photos of the work as you go ahead.
The holes for the washers are generic and I suspect the underside of this area will have a shadow line where the holes should be which could be cut with pad-saw. They also have a cover as you know so the hole is not visable if it is not perfect.
The projectors however may have some fixing at the rear of the bumper but these could be removed and fixed to the new one using epoxi resin glue.
If you go this way please post some photos of the work as you go ahead.
CraigWaterman11
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I agree with Safrane, I'm not sure what a pad-saw is but if it's like a Dremel, and you have some semi-steady hands you should be fine. As long as you don't over-size the hole no-one would ever know...............I still kind of like the idea with the washers in the wheel arches better though!!!
CatmanV2
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanley-F...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3cc1b9488a
One ended saw, basically. Great for lopping holes in plasterbaord without needing to drill a pilot.
C
One ended saw, basically. Great for lopping holes in plasterbaord without needing to drill a pilot.
C
CraigWaterman11
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Oh....that's not what I thought it was...LOL! I guess it would work....I would use a Dremel with a routing bit on it. Additionally you would be able to set the depth, the cut would not be as jagged. You could get a cheap version, and you would have it for other projects to boot. If you chose to try a pad saw take an old soldiering iron and just touch the edges to melt them just a bit. It will give it more of a factory appearance and take off the burrs the pad saw will probably leave. Keep a wet rag handy to keep cleaning the soldering iron off so you don't mess your tip up. Just suggestions of course.