Anyone knows about Fault Code P0353 on 3200GT?

[Undefined]

Hi all,

Just got 2 times of this fault code "P0353 - generic DTC, Ignition coil C primary/secondary circuit fault".

The first time it appeared, the car was driving by my friend, I was on the passenger seat, I checked and jot down the code and see whether there is any abnormal stuff happened and then I clear the code see whether it would appear again....

2 days later, I drove the car and the code appeared again, what I observed was I was passing a gap between a highway, which also had a gentle change of the slope (from a gentle downward slope to flat). The car was driven at around 80KM/hour, so, this gentle change forced a little shock (compression) to the front suspension..... then, the code appeared at the same time.

However, the car works fine.... nothing went wrong even after 2 times of the code appeared.

Anybody has the same code appeared before and know what goes wrong? Or it is just a false alarm? Appreciate for your help!

Thank you very much in advance!

Best regards,
Michael.

 

[conaero]

It sounds like you have a coil pack gone on number 3 cylinder.

Agreed, you need to identify which cylinder that is then swap it with another and see if the fault code changes. If it does, you need a new coil pack if it does not you have a HT lead failure and or spark plug or a wiring fault.

 

[Emtee]

If the coil pack's gone, then you'll have a lumpy idle when warm, and a proper racket when cold. You'll also have un-burnt gas through the exhaust, which will bang when coming off the throttle.

 

[Undefined]

Conaero, thanks for your advice! After reading your advice, I checked on the web on how to remove the coil pack. Sounds like it could be done by myself to have a simple check first!

Emtee, thanks for your info! I feel the engine is quite lumpy... but just dunno whether it is caused by this so far... haven't heard the bang yet... or maybe it was not so obvious and I didn't notice that.

Well... having a 3200GT makes me know more about the inside of a car....

 

[conaero]

Yes, they are real easy to swap. What I would do personally is swap all the left bank with the right bank and see if the fault moves from an odd number to an even number fault code.

Just make sure you don't drop the nuts down the plug holes or into the engine.

Will take you under an hour to do.


P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0355 Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0356 Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0358 Ignition Coil H Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction

We assume the A, B, C refers to Cylinder 1, 2, 3 etc, but you can just use the last number of the fault code to identify the cylinder.

 

[pjl4200]

Can I just ask what OBDII/EOBD reader is being used to read these codes?

many thanks, Peter

 

[conaero]

Elm327 check out digimoto.com also any of the ones off eBay that work on VW Audi and Alfa.

 

[Undefined]

OK.... it screwed up.... the situation got worst, when I started the engine, the engine lights go on immediately even it was being cleared. Then, a minute later, there was a small explosion sound and I stopped the engine immediately. I saw some smoke coming from where the coil pack was.... Now, when I turn the key on, there the engine lights goes off, but instead, there are 3 red lights: RCY, NO/ASR, SLOW DOWN.... Since these lights are so haunting, I haven't tried to start the engine again and called the dealer.

I tried to open up the metal cover than covering the coil packs and noticed that the coil of the 3rd cylinder cracked.... I suspected that the explosion and smoke came from this part.... I checked the service record from my previous owner and found that the coil of the 3rd cylinder had been changed 4-5 months ago! So, I believe there should be something wrong with the wiring or even the PCM system.... Very bad situation....

Well... I don't think I can fix it myself, and I will let the shop handle that... However, now my questions are:

1) Seems like all problems come from the 3rd cylinder, would it be possible for me to unplug the 3rd cylinder wiring and restore the car into a movable condition? If so, how to turn all the warning lights off to start the engine again?

2) If the car would be started with 3rd cylinder off, I know from you guys that the car would be probably a bit lumpy as the gas put inside the 3rd cylinder cannot be burnt. Would it possible hurt the engine? Of course, I am not planning to use the car with the 3rd cylinder off for long, just try to drive it to the shop only....

3) If the car could be started that way, would it be even better to unplug the fuel injection wire of the 3rd cylinder on the top of the engine so that no fuel will be going to the 3rd cylinder?

 

[conaero]

Dont panic!

Speak do David Askew and get him to send you a used coil pack. Swap out the bad part.

Disconnect the battery overnight before restart so it clears all the error code.

If that does not fix it then have the car picked up and taken to you garage.

Sounds like when they changed the coil pack last time they used a defective or second hand part.

 

[bill]

That's good advise. Since you know the part is faulty Nd it's easy to replace get it done and then run the engine. Running the engine with a cylinder out is definetly not advisable. As neat unbearnt fuel enters the exhaust system it can do a lot of damage to O2 sensors and catalytic converters not to mention the turbos and cylinders

Good luck

 

[Undefined]

OK! I think I really mess the stuff up now... the computer cannot be accessed and now the dashboard having a lot of error signal (you may see the attached picture) .... When I tried to start the engine, it runs, but believe that either there is no fuel injected or no ignition, or both, the engine never starts up.

I tried to read the manual as there is an emergency start up procedure the needs a code.... however, the steps mentioned that there should have Check Engine Light goes on and have to count the flash of the light for the code, but it even happens on my dashboard...

When I try to use OBD2 tools to connect to the computer, it never get connected..... Believe that's the worst situation is that the ECU dead, am I correct? Have anyone got similar experience on a dead ECU? How deep **** it will be?

PS: I don't have the red key as my previous owner doesn't have it as well....

 

[conaero]

Hum, that does look bad.

I think its probably beyond help and I think it needs to go to the dealer.

The only thing you can try is checking the fuses, you may have blown something.

Hang on, I notice that you are showing low charge on your battery, (is it just clicking when you turn the key) it will not turn over with 9 volts on hand, disconnect the battery, charge it over night, then reconnect, start the car (if it will) then let it idle for 15 mins without touching anything, not even the gas pedal, then switch it off. If this works you should be ok.

As the battery is flat, you don't have enough juice for the various electric systems to work, and hence the lock out of the ecu.

Also your code light is on, the car will not start whilst this is on. Try locking the car and unlocking the car to see if it clears it. (with a fully charged battery)

The only positive here is, that you have 15 degrees C of weather whilst over here we are freezing to death!

 

[conaero]

Any news on the fault, was it the battery?

 

[lozcb]

Intrigued also , what was the cure


regards loz

 

[Paul3200]

Yes please let us know the outcome. Hope its just the battery. Sends a shivver down my spine

Regards
Paul

 

[Emtee]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the code system warning light is on, so the car won't turn over until this is rectified. From the position of the battery needle, it looks like there's about 11 volts, which given the lights are on may just be regular battery drain. 11 volts should be enough to turn the engine, though there's no harm in checking it anyway. There's petrol showing on the needle, so the engine isn't starved, so given the previous post that mentions the coil blowing, if this has sent an electrical shock through the system, I do sadly wonder whether it's blown the ECU?

 

[lozcb]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the code system warning light is on, so the car won't turn over until this is rectified. From the position of the battery needle, it looks like there's about 11 volts, which given the lights are on may just be regular battery drain. 11 volts should be enough to turn the engine, though there's no harm in checking it anyway. There's petrol showing on the needle, so the engine isn't starved, so given the previous post that mentions the coil blowing, if this has sent an electrical shock through the system, I do sadly wonder whether it's blown the ECU?

Surely there must be a fail safe in their somewhere Miles , i shudder to think that a coil pack blowing could damage an Ecu ............... worth investigating next time your at Shiltech maybe


regards loz

 

[Maser Sod]

Oh dear, I remember my 3200 dash lighting up like a Christmas tree one winter. It didn't give me a big F though - I know what that stands for.

I suggest don't speculate and just get the dealer to collect it. If the coil physically exploded, then there has to be a fair chance that the ECU got fried and/or the battery discharged. Hope it's not a big ticket repair - I'm guessing that in HK the choice of Maser specialists is very limited.

 

[Emtee]

Surely there must be a fail safe in their somewhere Miles , i shudder to think that a coil pack blowing could damage an Ecu ............... worth investigating next time your at Shiltech maybe


regards loz

I don't think the coil failing would affect the PCM as such, but Undefined mentions the number 3 coil being cracked and if this caused a short or an earth failure, then I do wonder?

This check procedure might be helpful?

http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=DTC_P0353

 

[lozcb]

I don't think the coil failing would affect the PCM as such, but Undefined mentions the number 3 coil being cracked and if this caused a short or an earth failure, then I do wonder?

This check procedure might be helpful?

http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=DTC_P0353

Definately into the dealer/Indy then miles , interesting reading , be very surprised if the ecu is affected, sound like its got a preventative trigger, that needs a reset

regards loz