3200 not starting

I have heard that in the 3200 when the battery is a little below its optimal voltage it is difficult to start.
The voltage has to be optimal
 
it is certainly quite sensitive to the battery, and if the battery is on the way out it causes all sorts of mayhem. however you are right your readings on the battery seem ok. I would try the basics as suggested, check for a spark, check fuel pressure and possibly check the injectors are actually firing (careful this is potentially very dangerous)
 
We had a 3200 in today that ran fine then just cut out and would not start again. Had fuel, turned out it had blown its fuse to the injectors.

Simple check is to remove one of the injector plugs and check for power to them. If the fuse blows, no power is sent to any of the injectors.
 
conaero said:
We had a 3200 in today that ran fine then just cut out and would not start again. Had fuel, turned out it had blown its fuse to the injectors.

Simple check is to remove one of the injector plugs and check for power to them. If the fuse blows, no power is sent to any of the injectors.
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Thanks - will have a proper look this week - out of interest where is the fuse located if blown?
 
I’ll ask Ash whe
LDM 3200 said:
Thanks - will have a proper look this week - out of interest where is the fuse located if blown?
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Ill ask Ash when I get back from the MOT station but I believe in a black plastic box screwed to the passenger side bulkhead in the engine bay.
 
LDM 3200 said:
What voltage should a healthy batter read and what is it likely to drop too when cranking? I'm getting 13V then 11.4 cranking although did dip to 10.9 a couple of times
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the voltage is insufficient it is likely that the battery is finished. Use tweezers and another car as a complementary battery and sure you start it
 
there are batteries that have good voltage but the starting voltage is finished due to having communicated vessels
 
Too vague a description of the issue. Are there any dash warning lights lit when you key on and let it do its self check? If the little orange key symbol is lit then it won't start and there is indeed a key/immobiliser issue usually related to the RFID chip in the key.

Have you checked the crank sensor or also scanned for any fault codes on the car using an OBD scanner or Unidiag?

These cars very rarely just fail to start....
 
Contigo said:
Too vague a description of the issue. Are there any dash warning lights lit when you key on and let it do its self check? If the little orange key symbol is lit then it won't start and there is indeed a key/immobiliser issue usually related to the RFID chip in the key.

Have you checked the crank sensor or also scanned for any fault codes on the car using an OBD scanner or Unidiag?

These cars very rarely just fail to start....
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No warning lights - everything comes on and goes out as normal.
To be honest I think the only time the key symbol has stayed on the car has started and run, went out when restarted, but that was a few years ago.
No fault codes found with the UNIdiag.

Will have a look at fuses as mentioned above (assuming i can finf it, maybe swap bettery for another - is there a process for checking crank sensor - correct values?
 
LDM 3200 said:
No warning lights - everything comes on and goes out as normal.
To be honest I think the only time the key symbol has stayed on the car has started and run, went out when restarted, but that was a few years ago.
No fault codes found with the UNIdiag.

Will have a look at fuses as mentioned above (assuming i can finf it, maybe swap bettery for another - is there a process for checking crank sensor - correct values?
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If there’s fuel getting in to the cylinders the crank sensor will be ok. If there’s no spark and no fuel you can check the sensor. But they usually throw a code. You need an oscilloscope to test properly but you can do basic test with a multimeter. Have a google to find the procedure it’s not complicated.
 
The injection fuse is fuse 5, 30 amp and is located in the little relay and fuse box under the bonnet behind the right hand air cleaner box. Fuse 5 is one of the 2 fuses in line with the 3 relays.
The fuel pump relay and fuses are located above the battery in the boot if you need a copy of the locations let me know.
For information my 3200 will only start if the battery voltage is above 12.1 volts even though is will turn over easily with lower voltages.

Rex B
 
Rex B said:
The injection fuse is fuse 5, 30 amp and is located in the little relay and fuse box under the bonnet behind the right hand air cleaner box. Fuse 5 is one of the 2 fuses in line with the 3 relays.
The fuel pump relay and fuses are located above the battery in the boot if you need a copy of the locations let me know.
For information my 3200 will only start if the battery voltage is above 12.1 volts even though is will turn over easily with lower voltages.

Rex B
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Thankyou - I'm getting 13V then it drops to around 11.4 whilecranking although it did dip to 10.9 a couple of times - doesnt seem bad.
 
Rex B said:
The injection fuse is fuse 5, 30 amp and is located in the little relay and fuse box under the bonnet behind the right hand air cleaner box. Fuse 5 is one of the 2 fuses in line with the 3 relays.
The fuel pump relay and fuses are located above the battery in the boot if you need a copy of the locations let me know.
For information my 3200 will only start if the battery voltage is above 12.1 volts even though is will turn over easily with lower voltages.

Rex B
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12.1!!!! really. This seems pretty severe. I presume you are now tlaking about the voltage on the battery before cranking the engine? i do not think any car sustains over 12.1 while starting?
 
happydaze said:
Had a similar problem with my 3200 a couple of times. Each time I put the charger on the battery for about an hour, then away she went! The voltage needs to be above a certain level, otherwise it won't fire, even though it turns over quickly.
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In my earlier post, I did not mention that a new battery fixed the problem in my car. The 'old' battery is still quite OK in one of my 'less fussy' machines...:)
 
LDM 3200 said:
No warning lights - everything comes on and goes out as normal.
To be honest I think the only time the key symbol has stayed on the car has started and run, went out when restarted, but that was a few years ago.
No fault codes found with the UNIdiag.

Will have a look at fuses as mentioned above (assuming i can finf it, maybe swap bettery for another - is there a process for checking crank sensor - correct values?
Click to expand...

Start with a battery mate or trickle charge/condition the current one unless the battery is constantly above 12 V then it won't start on a 3200. Next is crank sensor and then check fuel!
 
It seems the insane obsession with fully charged batteries still persists at Maserati. When servicing a current model Ghibli there were numerous error messages about lights not being fully bright. I then realised that the true "problem" was a slightly undercharged battery. For F**ks sake,how anal are these guys ?
 
MRichards said:
It seems the insane obsession with fully charged batteries still persists at Maserati. When servicing a current model Ghibli there were numerous error messages about lights not being fully bright. I then realised that the true "problem" was a slightly undercharged battery. For F**ks sake,how anal are these guys ?
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FWIW it's not just Maseratis. I'm doing a lot of research into Bentley Continentals right now. They have two batteries. One for starting and one for running the ancillaries. It all goes south if they go low....

Same advice, only doubled. Buy two CTEKs....

C
 
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CatmanV2 said:
FWIW it's not just Maseratis. I'm doing a lot of research into Bentley Continentals right now. They have two batteries. One for starting and one for running the ancillaries. It all goes south if they go low....

Same advice, only doubled. By two CTEKs....

C
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My 2006 Merc has a brilliant system. It also has two batteries, but the second one is only used to start the car if the first goes flat. The dash also tells you if either is low on charge.
 
Oneball said:
My 2006 Merc has a brilliant system. It also has two batteries, but the second one is only used to start the car if the first goes flat. The dash also tells you if either is low on charge.
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Apparently there's a trick with the GTs that you can turn the key the wrong way and it'll use the ancillary battery to start.

C
 
Too be fair from my experiences on the spanners Voltage is critical for any manufacturer with all the control units on cars today.
Hence why you have to be so careful as they don't like being spiked.
 
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