3200 GT cam/timing belt change

alfatwo

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
Guys.. please just don't chuck a cambelt on the way it came off...as It's most likely the valve timing is miles out even from the original factory settings..We diden't want to upset Ferrari's latest did we....

A couple of cam cover seals and adjustment to the rear cam chain sprockets to suite ..two hours max..

Performance gains are from..Its bloody quick to F.cking Ell...!

Dave
 
rockits

rockits

Member
Messages
9,172
I think there are plenty of truths in stories like this behind the scenes or under the carpet or any other way you want to phrase it.

I had an R129 SL60 AMG for a few years that I regret selling a couple of years ago. The story was that they didn't want the 6.0 V8 in the SL60 to conflict with their flagship SL600 V12. Many confirm the story unofficially that they downplayed the output figures on the SL60 and many were quicker than printed or suggested figures.

The V8 was lighter & just as powerful if not more powerful than the SL600. The printed manuals or brochure never stated this but many things are different in the real world aren't they. Never live life always by the manual. Now and again you have to throw that manual away and write your own.

I love to hear stories like this and love to believe many are true. Almost like a victory for the little guy or the underdog.
 
Contigo

Contigo

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18,376
When BMW released the E36 M3 and the E36 328i they had to detune the 328(In the form of a lesser intake manifold) as they feared it would have detremented sales of the M3 if they were too closely matched.
 
rockits

rockits

Member
Messages
9,172
I guess it happens more.than we think. I guess the Bimmers are very much like this. I know my 530d sat above a detuned 525d. Same engine essential but different outputs. I know Audi do it a bit as well when I was looking at A5 & A7's.
 
Almichie

Almichie

Junior Member
Messages
799
It seems that now is the time to change can belts! My starter motor failed recently and I thought while I was in there doing that I would investigate the oil leak at the front of the engine - lolls like it might be the front shaft seal, we'll see when I'm at that point. Aux belt is off, can br cover is off and the belt is about to be removed. What's the recommended interval for water pump changes?
 
allandwf

allandwf

Member
Messages
10,994
I got my pump changed with the belt. It wasn't leaking but was starting to stiffen up. It's not expensive so well worth doing at the time.
 
Alecci

Alecci

Junior Member
Messages
193
Once again, cheers to the board!

Just got back to the car and the work of changing the cam belt continues. I'm now at that phase where I have just one more thing to disassemble - the water pump. All the bolts are done away with, but it still seems dead stuck. My initial thought was to find a very small screw-driver and tap it down gently in the crack between the engine block and the water pump. I do fear, however, that this might damage the engine block and compromise a tight seal once the new water pump is assembled. How have others performed this operation?

By the way, just since I'm curious and not that particularly well versed in English; what is the proper term for taking parts off and then putting them back on an engine? Being a simple Swede, I usually use the words mount/dismount/remount or assemble/disassemble/re-assemble, but it never feels quite right. What would be the correct term?

As always, I'd be very grateful for any assistance (with both of the above questions)!
 
alfatwo

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
Just give it a gentle tap with a hammer till it comes loose..dont start digging with a scewdriver as it'll damage the sealing surface..

Dave
 
jluis

jluis

Member
Messages
1,703
I believe mine came off without problem.
Male sure you also removed the studs and the water pipe bracket that also attach to the pump.

If you need to apply some force, try doing so on the pump pulley
 
babel 101

babel 101

Junior Member
Messages
253
jluis said:
Also, 6 years is a long time on the belt. You should avoid driving the car until it's replaced.
The official interval is 3 years.

While you are in there, you might want to consider changing the bearings and the hydraulic tensioner.
Water pumps are expensive but if yours was never changed you might want to change it too as it's a very easy job once you removed everything to get to the belt.
I started my job without intention of removing the pump only to find it leaking from the shaft and then had to wait 1 month to get a pump.

The shim adjusting on the tensioner is a trial/error process and you will need to buy a few shims in advance so that you can make the stack with the proper clearance to maintain optimum tension (This is also detailed in the manual)

Also, when removing the screws from the belt cover, note their positions ans they are of several sizes acording to the position where they screw in.

Cam pulleys are marked so you can't misalign them but the crank pulley is not. You (or your indie) will need to mark it's position.
As you are not fiddling with the chains and assuming your engine is currently on the correct timing there is no need for the tool to set the engine to TDC.
Click to expand...
jluis said:
Also, 6 years is a long time on the belt. You should avoid driving the car until it's replaced.
The official interval is 3 years.

While you are in there, you might want to consider changing the bearings and the hydraulic tensioner.
Water pumps are expensive but if yours was never changed you might want to change it too as it's a very easy job once you removed everything to get to the belt.
I started my job without intention of removing the pump only to find it leaking from the shaft and then had to wait 1 month to get a pump.

The shim adjusting on the tensioner is a trial/error process and you will need to buy a few shims in advance so that you can make the stack with the proper clearance to maintain optimum tension (This is also detailed in the manual)

Also, when removing the screws from the belt cover, note their positions ans they are of several sizes acording to the position where they screw in.

Cam pulleys are marked so you can't misalign them but the crank pulley is not. You (or your indie) will need to mark it's position.
As you are not fiddling with the chains and assuming your engine is currently on the correct timing there is no need for the tool to set the engine to TDC.
Click to expand...
About timing belt
Is 6 years or 3 years?
 
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