Great guide Craig. Some thoughts...
You forgot to mention the absolute pain in the *** p-clip that holds the cable for the RHS rear lambda!
Also, I don't take the gearbox off - it's less time to shuffle it backwards on a transmission stand.
I've got no idea how you manage the torque tube on your own, you must have big muscles as it feels like it's made from lead.
I find there's a bit more space to work at the bell housing if the steering rack is dropped down (remove the heat shield first).
Don't forget to put the magnet on the release bearing the correct way round otherwise you'll be cursing when you plug the SD3 in.
Clutch needs to be bled and it's easier to top up the reservoir with the heat shield under the boot removed (as well as all the boot trim).
Actually, I purposely left it out hoping my good friend from the UK would stop over and help with the post....lol.
I finally got the dumb clutch from Eurospares (sorry I wrote you're guy and forgot to forward it to you). I tried to cancel the order and it was being held in the U.S. because they didn't fill out the customs form. At least when I called, they were brash with an accent, so I really couldn't be offended. "Well it's only been the weekend now, hasn't it!". I didn't feel like arguing on it being much longer but whatever. When I got the clutch...lol....the thread got the back seat really quick so I might of glassed over a bit of it.
I like to just get the gear box out of the way. I tend to pressure wash all the dirt/debris off of them. The torque tube is easy if you imagine shes a .......(I might want to leave that out here)...lol. There would definitely be a bit more space with the rack/pinion out of the way but I find if I just push up the heat shields around the tunnel/firewall area it comes right out. Then before re-installation, I use a rubber mallet, and tap all the shield all the way around to make sure it's tight. They seem to sag a bit after time. There seems to be plenty of room for re-install afterwards. But hey, I'm all for more room with the rack out of the way to, and the person feeling comfortable working on the car. If I ever come over we can do it your way if you have anything scheduled.
Yep that release magnet. Screw head points forward. Be-careful of the dowel pin. If you use the wrong tool to tap it out, it expands and you'll be there for longer than you need to be.
Clutch being bled.......I did leave a bit out. Guess I was more excited to get it in than I thought. I left quite a bit out didn't I?
On a different note I have my PIS set at 3.98, before the change it was 4.65. I have you to thank for the procedure. I just did a PIS today on a 12,000 mile car after a PPI. That car was set to 4.95, set down now to 4.73. I'm getting good with dialing in the procedure. I am using .02 and .03 to dial them in now. The client might of though I was a bit crazier than he'd like when we took his car out to warm his clutch up. But I'm dead certain those friction discs were as expanded as they are ever going to be.
Thanks for adding to the thread as well.