Jeepers George you must have used half a gallon of foam on that.
I use a Gilmour gun and none of the settings foam to that degree.
Spring clean - picture heavy content!
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Jeepers George you must have used half a gallon of foam on that.
I use a Gilmour gun and none of the settings foam to that degree.
EnzoMC
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Parisien avatar.....hmmm....OK back to the thread
Phil - looks very good, if you want sheeting - you have to try Exo...
Simon - 2 points (foam / clay)
Foam: the Gilmour gun is good but won't get you this, you need a presure washer and a foam gun - then about 1" of snow foam product in the bottle add a pinch of special stuff and then top up with water
Clay: no wrong or right answer - I do use iron-x and tar cleaners to remove the welded on contaminants along the bottom half and higher if needed which then makes the claying the full car a lot easy and less risk of getting tar / grit in the clay. These 2 products will get off the hard contaminants but still leaves behind the fine contaminants which the clay is your tool, where as you need to work a little harder with clay to remove the hardened contaminants, these products make it so easier and saver
I use these products on customers cars to make sure the surface is spotless before machine polish / waxing but on a previously waxed car - no point just soft clay if needed and wax - idea is to build up the layers of wax for protection, as they can strip of protection
used these products on my Gransport before I machine polished - these help'd a lot and would suggest them both but only the 1st time, I've not used them on my car since
at the end of the day its what products works for you to get the finish you want.
Phil - looks very good, if you want sheeting - you have to try Exo...
Simon - 2 points (foam / clay)
Foam: the Gilmour gun is good but won't get you this, you need a presure washer and a foam gun - then about 1" of snow foam product in the bottle add a pinch of special stuff
and then top up with waterClay: no wrong or right answer - I do use iron-x and tar cleaners to remove the welded on contaminants along the bottom half and higher if needed which then makes the claying the full car a lot easy and less risk of getting tar / grit in the clay. These 2 products will get off the hard contaminants but still leaves behind the fine contaminants which the clay is your tool, where as you need to work a little harder with clay to remove the hardened contaminants, these products make it so easier and saver
I use these products on customers cars to make sure the surface is spotless before machine polish / waxing but on a previously waxed car - no point just soft clay if needed and wax - idea is to build up the layers of wax for protection, as they can strip of protection
used these products on my Gransport before I machine polished - these help'd a lot and would suggest them both but only the 1st time, I've not used them on my car since
at the end of the day its what products works for you to get the finish you want.
VMSRTI
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Jeepers George you must have used half a gallon of foam on that.
About an inch of liquid in the bottom of the lance reservoir and it will do two cars.
VMSRTI
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Here's a pic of mine first wash after being Swissvax Crystal Rock (£700 a tub) detailed. I've never seen water bead like it does with Crystal Rocks.
The wax is actually resisting the snow foam!
Phil - £700 ????? Is that a typo???
Or perhaps it comes in a very large tub
Parisien avatar.....hmmm....OK back to the thread
Phil - looks very good, if you want sheeting - you have to try Exo...
Simon - 2 points (foam / clay)
Foam: the Gilmour gun is good but won't get you this, you need a presure washer and a foam gun - then about 1" of snow foam product in the bottle add a pinch of special stuff
Clay: no wrong or right answer - I do use iron-x and tar cleaners to remove the welded on contaminants along the bottom half and higher if needed which then makes the claying the full car a lot easy and less risk of getting tar / grit in the clay. These 2 products will get off the hard contaminants but still leaves behind the fine contaminants which the clay is your tool, where as you need to work a little harder with clay to remove the hardened contaminants, these products make it so easier and saver
I use these products on customers cars to make sure the surface is spotless before machine polish / waxing but on a previously waxed car - no point just soft clay if needed and wax - idea is to build up the layers of wax for protection, as they can strip of protection
used these products on my Gransport before I machine polished - these help'd a lot and would suggest them both but only the 1st time, I've not used them on my car since
at the end of the day its what products works for you to get the finish you want.
Hi Enzo
Fascinating to read your advice - it all makes sense as it is pretty hard work using the clay first time round on contaminated paint, but as I've done the hard bit now I'm not sure if I need the Iron-X now. I do use tar remover, excellent stuff.
Do you think Iron-X would strip some of the wax protection if used on an occasional basis?
Interesting your thoughts on layering of wax - I use Collinite as base wax and Swissvax and a couple of others (depending on my mood ;-) ) to layer and give a warmer finish..
Cheers, Simon
It's not Typo at all. It's not even the cheapest of their products. It's kept in the fridge BTW next to the veg
Phil is this one of the SV waxes for life where they refill your tub when you finish?
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It's not Typo at all. It's not even the cheapest of their products. It's kept in the fridge BTW next to the veg
Careful not to spread it on your toast.
EnzoMC
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the product needs to pull the contaminants out of the paint, therefore passing thru the wax layer. CarPro who make this have confirmed that this will strip most protections from the car. this however has not been fully tested with the high-end nano products but as waxes are organic and this product is acid based I would suspect even the high waxes will also be affected
for me if I put £300+ wax on the car I want to keep it on, therefore only use soft cleaners, on the flip side you could say I am sealing in the contaminants which I think is a small trade off from loss of a layer of wax
this is a good approach - just a little comment: I would get the top product (swissvax) direct onto clean paintwork and let this bond to it, then top up with others if you want. most top-end waxes are designed to bond to paintwork not on other waxes which could cause the bonding not to work fully - just a suggest
OK Enzo sounds good to me.
I used to be totally sceptical about the additional benefit-versus-cost of top end waxes, but I'm sure the SV I'm using does add a little something more than others i.e. Collinite, perhaps marginal but it's still noticeable (even to my failing eyesight...). In saying this though, Collinite is brilliant on our daily run-about
I used to be totally sceptical about the additional benefit-versus-cost of top end waxes, but I'm sure the SV I'm using does add a little something more than others i.e. Collinite, perhaps marginal but it's still noticeable (even to my failing eyesight...). In saying this though, Collinite is brilliant on our daily run-about
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The biggest difference I'd notice is that I'd have 660 less pounds.
I'd happily spend to have someone give my car a really good detailing but would struggle to fork out that amount of loot for a wax, even if the pot did last for a few years. It would be ironic that I'd have a lovely pot of wax but not a pot to **** in.
Almichie
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The biggest difference I'd notice is that I'd have 660 less pounds.
£700 is a good set of tyres, a fairly decent separates amplifier, a quarter of the car re sprayed, a new cam belt, or a pot of wax! I think I'd have to be able to buy a couple of brand new Maserati's before I invested in a £700 pot of wax to keep them looking 'that' good. In the world of hi-fi the other components have to match in order that the most expensive shines through;I'm guessing it's the same in the detailing world. The wax is only as good as the prep work and to get the prep required it seems these products need to match the ability of the wax... Don't they?!
..I wouldn't spend £700 though Frank. I reckon £100 or so is fine as it will last a long time. I wonder if there's much difference between a £100er and a £700er wax (only a big hole in your pocket) - I'm not sure there would be really...
yes agree with this. Am i right in thinking the owner of the £700 wax is a pro detailer though (or is it Phil (Contigo)? In it's a detailers, then they would probably need to use it from time to time on high end cars...
Think mine was about £120 and it will last me a few years - I wouldn't spend more than this though on a wax..
Contigo
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I didn't buy it BTW guys before you think I'm going to come to the ace meet and start blowing my nose with £50 notes lol.
It's the detail company mate of mine who brings it out on nice metal as a treat and it does work. I honestly have not seen much like it and he swears by it. Nick knows his stuff so I'm not going to argue with him.
It's the detail company mate of mine who brings it out on nice metal as a treat and it does work. I honestly have not seen much like it and he swears by it. Nick knows his stuff so I'm not going to argue with him.