midlifecrisis
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Might just do that tomorrow... Lol
4200 Front wheel Bearing - or lack thereof
- Thread starter Yeti
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Zep
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The problem is not getting the bearing, it's getting it out of the housing and fitting the ABS sensor ring. The hub is pressed into the bearing and then formed over on the inner end so it's not possible to get it out without doing serious damage. The bearing itself is held into the housing by what I think is a circlip which you can't get to with the hub in place. I put a 15 tonne hydraulic press on my old one and absolutely nothing moved. The ABS sensor ring clips to the housing in a way which will damage on removal. It's basically a crock.
I do have a brand new bearing which I have been keeping on the shelf to avoid bearing price inflation. I might do a deal as long as it's replaced?
I do have a brand new bearing which I have been keeping on the shelf to avoid bearing price inflation. I might do a deal as long as it's replaced?
azapa
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Bearing and bushings get me all riled up, the removal and replacement that is. I have never seen the piece that you guys are referring to, so am taking out of my nether region, but it *must* be doable. Heat always works as the housing and bearing are two different materials. Then, freezing the bearing and heating the housing to re-install, they normally just drop in if done well.
If the back of the housing is closed, in that you can't push it out, you could drill two, three or four smallish (6mm??) holes in the back to the bearing outer edge and push with a jig that would need making up. Even the ABS sensor should be re-buildable, they are just (normally) hall -effect sensors, well packaged (potted) with cables.
Send me an old one down here and I'll let loose!
If the back of the housing is closed, in that you can't push it out, you could drill two, three or four smallish (6mm??) holes in the back to the bearing outer edge and push with a jig that would need making up. Even the ABS sensor should be re-buildable, they are just (normally) hall -effect sensors, well packaged (potted) with cables.
Send me an old one down here and I'll let loose!
Navcorr
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Differential heating/cooling is often used for the separate components - a little tricky though where pieces are already assembled. Could be interesting to cut the old assembly open.
azapa
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When assembled the key is the difference in the materials. Aluminum, typically the housing, expands more much more than the steel bearing. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-expansion-metals-d_859.html
But to be fair, even when they are the same materials, a bit of heat (and swearing and a big hammer) also do wonders as the 'stiction' is lessened.
All this is making me wish I had an older car to lay in to. Been looking at old Porsche 356's.......
Navcorr
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This is the key prior to assembly. Preventing heat transfer between the different materials after assembly is nigh on impossible.
azapa
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I am probably wrong here, I understand the two metals will be the same temperature due to the contact between them. But if we heat them way above their normal operating temperatures, lets say to 200C, one will expand more than the other. Hence the advantage?
Either way, great thread swerve and more fun than my day job!
Either way, great thread swerve and more fun than my day job!
Navcorr
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+1
Nothing to lose by trying - I suspect it likely that inner & outer radius expansions would be a problem though.
Zep
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For the avoidance of doubt this is the issue. You can see that the hub has been pushed through the inner race of the bearing and then it has been formed to create lip which retains it inside the inner race. To remove the hub you would need to machine the lip off to allow it to be pushed out of the inner race, then it should be possible to remove the bearing. The problem is that by machining off the lip you then render the hub useless - or at the very least not to the original spec - if you re-used it there would be no physical lip to prevent the hub pulling out of the inner race. This would mean that when used on the rear wheels the drive shaft nut would probably not pull tight, on the front it would be downright dangerous.
I am a firm believer that something made by a man can be fixed by a man, I am sorry to say that in this instance it can't. My offer of the new bearing still stands.
I am a firm believer that something made by a man can be fixed by a man, I am sorry to say that in this instance it can't. My offer of the new bearing still stands.
azapa
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I like the spirit, but you could probably buy a wheel bearing for the postage costs, and suffer the 3 month wait too, before it arrives here!
Would love to have a good look at one. Maybe some decent photos posted here of all angles?
If it is like a 20 quid shipping, send it. I'll happily return the cost.
Gp79
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I have an old one, might cut it in half to see the section, but as Zep said above there is no way to separate it without it being destroyed, there is no way (so that it could be reused safely!) to just replace the bearing inside the hub.
Spent a few hours looking through SKF catalogue and the other cars with same pcd but nothing is listed or matches anywhere i looked.
I don't like too far from Rugby so before i cut in half i should have a run out to SKF and see if they can identify and supply me one directly.
Spent a few hours looking through SKF catalogue and the other cars with same pcd but nothing is listed or matches anywhere i looked.
I don't like too far from Rugby so before i cut in half i should have a run out to SKF and see if they can identify and supply me one directly.
Zep
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It is a strange design. I could definetly get the hub out, but in a fashion where it wouldn't be reusable (cutting). Even if you could reshape the hub to make it removable I would then not be happy to re-use it due to work hardening. So a new hub would need to be made, rendering the process uneconomic. Additionally the peened over end shape is rather important as this is the surface onto which the driveshaft outer joint is seated.
In this particular case, we have been beaten.
Zep
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You are right Greg, the only cars which share the PCD are various 90's Fezzas and the Volvo XC90. The centre bore size on the XC90 is wrong so that leaves the Fezzas and the chances of SKF having a hub for one of them is very slim indeed.
2b1ask1
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That looks to me to be flow moulded within the press as in the outer race hub is held in the press whilst a ceramic tip is applied to the centre heating locally to orange hot and flowing it into shape. We used to flow drill box section for tapping later, an interesting tech but requiring around 10,000 rpm.