Wash Guide

JayOne

New Member
Messages
92
Hi everyone,

I get asked on a regular basis what sort of things you should all be doing to take care of your car. To help you get started, I have put together a step by step “wash guide” and will add to this other stages such as “claying, waxing”

If you’re just starting out with car care there are a couple of items that we would class as “must haves” and then of course your collection can be added to as and when necessary to build up a selection of products that will not only make maintenance of the car much easier but will also and more importantly, achieve excellent results. Not only is it important to make sure you have a selection of good quality products, but it’s essential to use them in the right way with the right techniques.

The first thing you need to make sure you have is a good “wash” regime with a good collection of “wash” products... this is because most of the damage such as swirl marks and random scratches can be inflicted during the wash stage if done incorrectly and using the incorrect products.

Part 1 -Cleaning wheels and washing car

Cleaning the Wheels...
To start off with, clean the wheels first – this ensures that you don’t waste time washing the car and then go and splash water and dirt all over it again when you wash the wheels off!

Begin by spraying the wheels liberally with a dedicated wheel cleaner – we recommend Bilberry Wheel Cleaner as it’s safe on both polished and lacquered wheels, it’s completely acid-free, it’s easy to use and most importantly, works amazingly! Be sure to spray the wheel cleaner inside the wheels as well as on the surface. For very heavily soiled wheels use the Bilberry neat or diluted 1:1. For lightly soiled wheels, dilute the Bilberry between 1:5 – 1:10. Leave the solution on the wheels for a few minutes to loosen off any dirt and brake dust.

Starting with the insides of the wheels, gently agitate the Bilberry – we find that the EZ Detail Brush is excellent for this, as it gets in behind the spokes to get the insides of the wheels nice and clean. Clean the surface/faces of the wheels by agitating the Bilberry using a soft bristled brush. Once you’ve cleaned the insides of the wheels as well as the surface, rinse the arches and the wheels thoroughly with fresh water... best results will be achieved using a pressure washer.

Bilberry wheel cleaner - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Bilbery_Safe_Wheel_Cleaner_2.html
EZ wheel brush - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/EZ_Detail_Brush_2.html
Soft bristled Wheel brush - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Soft_Round_Wheel_brush_2.html


Washing the Car...
The first thing to do when washing the car is to get as much loose dirt and grime off as possible before you make contact with it. The more you remove, the less chance you have of inflicting any damage when you do wash it. The best way to do this is with a pressure washer and a foam lance. This will give you a really thick coating of foam that helps to loosen and lift the dirt on the car. The benefit here is that the bulk of dirt removal is done before a wash mitt is placed on the car, which greatly reduces the risk of inflicting marring and fine scratches during the hand-washing process. Spray the foam all over the car and leave to dwell for around 5 minutes. Depending on how dirty the car is, you should be able to see the muck in the foam as it drips off the bottom of the car. Be sure to rinse all of the foam off the car before it dries.

Foam Lance - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/HD_Snow_Foam_Lance_1L.html
Snow Foam - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Meguiars_Hyper_Wash_2.html


Once you’ve done the pre-wash you should be ready to get going with the hand-wash. For this we recommend using a high quality lambswool wash mitt in place over traditional sponges, and the use of a PH neutral shampoo in conjunction with the Two Bucket Method. For this you need two buckets, two grit-guards (these are an absolute must). The way the two bucket method works is that you have one bucket of water with your shampoo and you have one bucket of fresh rinse water. Load the mitt with suds, wash one panel of the car and then rinse the mitt thoroughly in the second bucket to release any trapped particles of dirt, before reloading the mitt with suds and moving on to the next panel. Start by washing the roof first, then the windows and windscreens, then the door panels and bonnet, and finishing with the bumpers and sills, making sure that you wash in a back and forth straight line motion and not a circular motion. If your car is very dirty you will notice that the bucket containing fresh water will start to change colour with the dirt that you have removed from the car as the mitt is rinsed out after every panel. If the rinse water becomes very dirty replace it with clean fresh water not forgetting to rinse out the bucket before re-filling

wash mitt - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Sonus_Genuine_Wool_Car_Wash_Mitt_1.html
Buckets and grit guards - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Meguiars_Grit_Guard_Bucket_1.html
Shampoo - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Meguiars_Hyper_Wash_3.html or http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Duragloss_901_Car_Wash_Concentrate_1.html


It is better to wash your car in the shade if you can to prevent the suds from drying out and leaving water marks. If this is not possible, on really hot days you should begin rinsing off as soon as each panel is washed. When rinsing off we first recommend using the pressure washer followed by a hose with all of the end attachments removed, this encourages the rinse water to sheet off the panels making drying easier.

To dry the car off we recommend pat drying using a microfiber drying towel – we don’t really make any alternative recommendations when it comes to drying towels, as there’s nothing else out there that comes anywhere close to this (in our opinion!). If you’ve got any chamois leathers lurking in your existing car care collection, ditch it in the same bin as the sponge!

Drying towels - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/I4D_Uber_Premium_Drying_Towel_1.html
 
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JayOne

New Member
Messages
92
Part 2- Claying, Cleansing and Waxing

Claying...
This is the one stage we get asked about the most, as it seems to be the stage that frightens people the most! You can miss this stage out, however, if you want to give the car a complete going over to get a solid foundation to maintain from, ideally you should look at claying the car – not only does it add a real clarity to the paint, but it also prepares the surface in the best possible way for the following stages. Over time, it is not unusual for paint finishes to become slightly rough to the touch. Such roughness is caused by the gradual accumulation of surface contaminants that are too firmly bonded to be removed by normal washing alone.

For most of you, you will be claying a brand new car, which means that there shouldn’t be too much for you to have to remove. This means that you won’t need to use an aggressive clay – You will also need a lube of some sort, as both the clay and the paintwork need to be completely wet at all times when claying the car. Finally you’ll need a microfibre cloth to wipe off the lube after you’ve finished each panel.

To clay the car, break a small piece from the bar and knead it into about a 50 pence piece shape. Work it in your hands for a couple of minutes to make sure it’s soft... if it’s a very cold day or you have very cold hands, you could use a cup of warm water and dip the clay in just to soften it up . Using clay pieces that are too hard is the number one reason why many people have a bad experience with clay and end up damaging their paint.

Once clay is soft enough the next step is too work from top of car down, panel by panel making sure that both the clay and panel are nice and wet with the lube all of the time. Applying a very light pressure, rub the clay in a back and forth motion in straight lines over the panel. After a couple of light rubs, you should be able to feel that the paint is completely smooth, which means that everything has been removed. If the paint is relatively clean the clay will glide across it very easily; if it is heavily contaminated the clay will be much harder to move around. Once work area is clean wipe away the lube using a clean microfibre then move onto the next panel. When the clay becomes quite dirty (you will be able to see brown marks on the clay), fold the dirty surface in on itself to expose a fresh surface, and knead it back into a 50 pence piece shape and start on the next panel. If conditions are cold, switch clay pieces after each panel and keep your spare pieces sat in a tub of warm water. You can also clay the windows to get the glass as clean as possible if you want to.

To help appreciate just what a difference claying really makes, here’s a little trick to try... before you start to clay the car, get a plastic bag (something like a supermarket carrier bag or an empty crisp packet is perfect), slip your fingers inside the bag and rub them across the surface of a panel. You’ll be able to feel how bumpy the paintwork is, which is caused by all of the contaminants. Do the same after you’ve clayed the panel and you should be able to feel what a difference you’ve made, as it will be completely smooth!

Clay - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Sonus_SFX_Ultra-Fine_Detailing_Clay_1.html
Clay Lube - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Meguiars_Last_Touch_1.html
Microfibre Towels- http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/I4DETAILING_Ultra_Plush_Microfibre_3Pack_4.html


Pre-wax paint cleansing...
Once the car has been clayed the paint will need to be cleansed in order to enable the wax to bond with the paint. Some paint cleansers can mask fine paint defects by using "fillers" whilst others use fine abrasives which can reduce fine swirls. Both will leave the paint squeaky clean and leave behind oils that will nourish the paint and massively enhance gloss ahead of applying wax protection.

Working on a panel at a time, apply a small amount of product (two pea-size blobs is ideal) to an applicator. Work the product into the paint; again, using a straight line back and forth motion until the product is very nearly dry. It will haze ever so slightly and at that point it’s ready to be buffed off using a microfiber towel. Once you’ve finished one panel, move onto the next until you’ve done the whole car.

Pre-wax Cleansers
DoDo Juice Lime Prime Lite - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Dodo_Juice_Lime_Prime_Lite_1.html
Swissvax Cleaner fluid- http://www.swissvax.co.uk/products/cleaning-products.asp


Applicator - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/I4D_Detailing_Product_Applictor_Pad_1.html

Microfibre Towels - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/I4DETAILING_Ultra_Plush_Microfibre_3Pack_4.html


Waxing the car...
Once you have finished cleaning your car we recommend applying a final step product after each wash to help protect the paint against the many elements found in the atmosphere such as water, UV radiation, dust, dirt, industrial fallout, tree sap, insects, bird droppings...the list goes on. Protection is available in many different forms including natural carnauba waxes, synthetic sealants and products that combine both. Final step products typically offer varying degrees of gloss, reflectivity, slickness and durability.

Our favourite and recommended final step product is carnauba based wax. Carnauba is a vegetable wax obtained from the leaves of the carnauba palm that is native to Brazil and is nature's hardest, purest and most transparent wax. There are many different carnauba waxes available ranging in price depending on carnauba content percentage. Basically, the higher the percentage of carnauba in the wax determines how durable and how much gloss and shine the wax provides. Carnauba wax prices start from £15 with some costing a few thousand ££. My favourite wax is Swissvax Divine which retails at £1600 for 400ml of product and is the wax I use on most of my jobs.

In contrast to carnauba wax, synthetic sealants are the product of modern technology and comprise either polymer-based formulas or acrylic resins. Many car care enthusiasts have long argued that synthetic sealants are superior to other types of last step product, as they produce an ultra slick finish that is extremely durable. However, the finish produced by sealants is typically much less glossy than that produced by carnauba wax and some can discolour over time, going milky or turning yellow.

The best and easiest way of applying the wax is to use a foam applicator pad which gives an thin even coverage and then buff the wax to a shine with a microfibre towel. Always apply and buff the wax in straight lines and out of direct sun light. A good tip is to have a spray bottle filled with detail spray, if the wax goes streaky, simply spray and wipe. You’ll know when the wax is ready to buff because it will have hazed slightly and won’t be as clear as it was when you first apply it. The more layers of wax you build up the better the finish will become so if you decide to apply more than one layer its best to leave it 24 hours between applications just to give the wax enough to time to fully cure.

With regards to how often the wax should be topped up, this can differ very much depending on which wax you’ve gone for. Some of the cheap waxes should give you between 1 – 3 months of durability, whereas something like Swissvax Best of Show or any of the higher end waxes should be giving you around 4-6 months of protection. Whatever wax you’re using, to get the best results we recommend topping the wax up once a month, which will give the paint maximum protection and will keep the car looking stunning. A good way to tell whether or not there’s any wax still on the car is to observe how well water beads on the surface when it rains. If the water sits on the surface in small, neat tidy beads, there’s a good coat of wax on. When the water drops becomes less uniform and look like larger blobs rather than smaller beads, it’s a sign that the wax has started to deteriorate and needs topping up again.

Wax
Swissvax - http://www.swissvax.co.uk/products/wax-products.asp
Dodo Supernatural - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Dodo_Juice_Supernatural_Wax_200ml_1.html

Applicators - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Meguairs_High_Tech_Applicators_1.html

Buffing Towel - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/I4D_Uber_Premium_Detailing_Towel_1.html
 
Last edited:

JayOne

New Member
Messages
92
Protecting/Sealing wheels...
When choosing a wheel wax or sealant it's best to go for something that's dedicated specifically to wheels. Whilst you can use the same wax as on your paintwork, you'll probably find that it needs to be topped up much more regularly, as the wheels are subjected to much tougher conditions than the paint. With a dedicated wheel wax, you get more durability and resistance against the higher temperatures endured by the wheels.

If you decide to go for a wax, use a soft foam applicator and apply a thin, even coat to the surface of the wheel, and if possible, also on the inside of the wheel. Apply the wax to each wheel and leave for around 5 minutes until the wax has hazed. The simply buff all of the wax off using a clean microfibre to leave behind an ultra-shiny, well protected surface. I would recomend topping the protection up on wheels atleast every 3-4 weeks

Once you've got the wheels waxed or sealed, spray a tyre dressing around the tyres just to finish off the look.

Wheel Wax
Rimwax - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Smartwax_RimWax_1.html
Swissvax Autobahn - http://www.swissvax.co.uk/products/wheel--tyre-products.asp


Tyre Dressing
Zaino - http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/zaino/zaino-z-16-perfect-tire-gloss/prod_476.html
Swissvax Pneu - http://www.swissvax.co.uk/products/wheel--tyre-products.asp


Applicator pad - http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Meguairs_High_Tech_Applicators_1.html

The final step in the washing process is to pack away all of the tools you have used, making sure everything is clean and ready for the next use. You should thoroughly rinse out your buckets, and then store them upside down until they are next required. Next rinse out the wash mitt and wash all towels in a washing machine at a low temperature using a gentle non-biological detergent before allowing everything to dry out naturally.
 

Tiburon44

New Member
Messages
113
Thanks Jay, this is great in detail and explaination of application. Greatly appreciated....I know I've seen talk on the forums before re: engine cleaning, but do would you possibly be able to do a detailed post re: the engine cleaning process to, please?
 
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Andyk

Member
Messages
61,183
Fantastic Jay......Bought some of the products you recommended and I must say I am really please..

Rimwax.....Sounds like something you get from Ann Summers...
 

Steve B

New Member
Messages
69
Thanks Jay for taking the time to do this guide. You can often find Detailing guides which recommend various products but they never tell you where to buy them! I feel a bit of a shopping spree could be on the cards...
 

Parisien

Moderator
Messages
34,927
Am a bit overwhelmed.......basically...all I've been doing the the last 30 years.....is trying to scrape off the top coat and merely re-distribute the dirt, tar and bird poo over a wider area of the car.........


Maybe some one should phone social services and tell them I'm not fit to be a car owner, so they come and take my car away.....:(....


P


PS Aint fully read it.....looks fab...will do so and apply those standards to the best of my ability........cheers JayOne!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Parisien

Moderator
Messages
34,927
Fantastic Jay......Bought some of the products you recommended and I must say I am really please..

Rimwax.....Sounds like something you get from Ann Summers...

AndyK.................................your "education".......sounds as if its a bit too broad.............................ahhheeemmm......


Please explain the above comment to Loz.....Conaero.......and UM......TU!


P
 

Emtee

New Member
Messages
8,446
Jay, that's definitely the most comprehensive write-up on how to wash a car properly. Totally impressed.

Sorry, this may be a bit of a luddite question, however as I've never used clay.. Does this remove all previous wax to get back to the paint surface so that you can effectively start again?

Thanks, Emtee.
 

JayOne

New Member
Messages
92
Jay, that's definitely the most comprehensive write-up on how to wash a car properly. Totally impressed.

Sorry, this may be a bit of a luddite question, however as I've never used clay.. Does this remove all previous wax to get back to the paint surface so that you can effectively start again?

Thanks, Emtee.
Emtree,
yes claying will remove any previous layers of protection