Rear tie rod removal...

[TimR]

Presumably the easiest thing is to remove the long stud that locates the tie rod helm joint through the hub carrier from the ball joint, then wind it off the wishbone....?

cheers

 

[Lozzer]

Presumably the easiest thing is to remove the long stud that locates the tie rod helm joint through the hub carrier from the ball joint, then wind it off the wishbone....?

cheers

That's the way I would go if I had to do it again, would need a thin wrench to hold the front ball joint, the first time I hacksawed them in half after failing to unlock the wishbone locknut, undid the ball joint end and the rod came undone by itself lol

 

[Zep]

Best of luck, you will need to get a good grip of the nose of the ball joint and it will be tight against the hub.

If you can get the adjuster moving in the wishbone this would be easiest (at least I found it to be anyway).

 

[TimR]

Both sides have been done recently...but the FD ( waterman?) replacement has failed on the drivers side. 3K miles old. Just done chassis & 4 wheel alignment too....Boring.
One end or the other has to clear either the stud or the adjuster...Are you saying the hub carrier can be wound out more easily than the stud removed from the ball joint @Zep....? I know ball joint isn’t tapered but not sure of the architecture of it beyond this tbh....I’d be gutted to damage a boot doing them too....

 

[Lozzer]

Both sides have been done recently...but the FD ( waterman?) replacement has failed on the drivers side. 3K miles old. Just done chassis & 4 wheel alignment too....Boring.
One end or the other has to clear either the stud or the adjuster...Are you saying the hub carrier can be wound out more easily than the stud removed from the ball joint @Zep....? I know ball joint isn’t tapered but not sure of the architecture of it beyond this tbh....I’d be gutted to damage a boot doing them too....

Not sure, what I do know is when the ball joint end is in situ the arm doesn't line up with the wishbone at the other end, if I remember I had to jack the wishbone up so it would line up and screw in.

 

[Lozzer]

Funnily enough my fd joints had slight play at the last mot, they haven't been on there 12 months.

 

[TimR]

Funnily enough my fd joints had slight play at the last mot, they haven't been on there 12 months.

Wow...That’s a bit worrying.

 

[Lozzer]

Wow...That’s a bit worrying.

Indeed, still wearing the chalk where he marked them up, I'm now thinking used arms fitted with Superformance bushes may be the way to go. I have access to a press so I can do those.

 

[TimR]

Sounds easier than the process I’m going through...
Grimaldi tell me they also do something similar..They reckoned they’ll do 3 years- whatever that means, I suppose 20-30K miles?

 

[Lozzer]

If it helps I'm pretty sure the FD bearings are sourced from McGill Motorsports in Scotland.

 

[TimR]

If it helps I'm pretty sure the FD bearings are sourced from McGill Motorsports in Scotland.

Good call...
I think I might get e refund out of FD but they aren’t being very helpful, or gracious about it. They are refusing to believe their part is failed, refusing to accept three independent assessments that say “ track rod end”....and now I find it’s not even a £15 part..
Hilarious!

 

[alfatwo]

I'd just stick with the original spec PTFE lined F.A.G bearings from Germany, they last lots more than 3 years..

Plain rod end type bearings are useless on road cars! hence the reason were always changing the drop links on the front roll bar

There about 25 quid each from your local bearing supplier

Dave

 

[Lozzer]

I'd just stick with the original spec PTFE lined F.A.G bearings from Germany, they last lots more than 3 years..

Plain rod end type bearings are useless on road cars! hence the reason were always changing the drop links on the front roll bar

There about 25 quid each from your local bearing supplier

Dave

Good to see ya Dave, Linky Link?

 

[Lozzer]

Good call...
I think I might get e refund out of FD but they aren’t being very helpful, or gracious about it. They are refusing to believe their part is failed, refusing to accept three independent assessments that say “ track rod end”....and now I find it’s not even a £15 part..
Hilarious!

You found them then? A bit disappointing from FD though, marketed as an upgrade you would expect them to put their money where their mouth was.

 

[alfatwo]

And there not EU compliant ,so if you haven't told your insurance and you have the big one and they find out, which they will, you'll be in deep sh*t!!

Best to keep everything original nowadays just in case..

Dave

 

[Zep]

The replacement bearings for the original toe adjuster are SKF GE15C.

 

[Zep]

Both sides have been done recently...but the FD ( waterman?) replacement has failed on the drivers side. 3K miles old. Just done chassis & 4 wheel alignment too....Boring.
One end or the other has to clear either the stud or the adjuster...Are you saying the hub carrier can be wound out more easily than the stud removed from the ball joint @Zep....? I know ball joint isn’t tapered but not sure of the architecture of it beyond this tbh....I’d be gutted to damage a boot doing them too....

Yes, the hub will move out more easily I suspect. I’ve not seen one of these, but I suspect it would be easiest to wind out the turnbuckle until you can remove the spherical bearing from the hub joint.

 

[TimR]

Yes, the hub will move out more easily I suspect. I’ve not seen one of these, but I suspect it would be easiest to wind out the turnbuckle until you can remove the spherical bearing from the hub joint.

Yes indeed...there is sufficient movement to release the turn buckle at the swing arm.
I had to extract the stud from the ball joint too however. Only way to clear the helm joint was to put it on the bench and drive it off the stud.
The original is now back on the car- and free play is cured.

 

[TimR]

The replacement bearings for the original toe adjuster are SKF GE15C.

Is that the whole story though..?

SKF GE15C all seeem to be open bearings..?

 

[TimR]

A bit disappointing from FD though, marketed as an upgrade you would expect them to put their money where their mouth was.

You really would...!?
They want me to remove both sides, buy another set. Send them the affceted rod(s) and when they agree it's FUBAR, they'll refund me...But then I am the proud owner of more **** that dont work !! And all for a spherical rod end bearing worth £40, tops...?
How long have I got - How much money do I want to throw down this particular rabbit hole?
Someone needs to tell them their sh1t stinks but it aint gonna be me. Lesson learned.
"You Brit' punks ain't doing it right !!! " seems to be the message....