Rear shock absorber removal

[Vince Hart]

Some advice please. Iam replacing the springs on the rear of the 3200. The left hand side been no problem and I managed to release the four Nuts at the top of the shock absorber using my left hand all came out fairly easily. The right hand side is another issue I’ve managed to release two but I still have two that I have been working on for a whole day to try and release with no success. The only option I can see I have is to try and drop the petrol tank from the Boot to try and get better access to these two nuts. Has anybody had this problem before and how did they overcome it?

 

[Zep]

When I did this, it was like helping a cow give birth. It’s all about getting as long a bar as you can on it and making sure you have good purchase on the nut.

i didn’t need to take the tank out, but sounds like you might.

 

[Vince Hart]

Thanks for your response, I have tried absolutely everything but as you say I think maybe drop the tanks going to be the only way

 

[Zep]

Thanks for your response, I have tried absolutely everything but as you say I think maybe drop the tanks going to be the only way

Not an easy job sadly. If a long bar won’t do it, just to loosen it, than your stuck by the sounds of it.

 

[RSM Masser]

This is my next job
how did you find removing the actuators?

 

[SteveM]

As others have said getting to the top nuts requires long arms and dexterity but can be done without having to remove the fuel tank. I find a combination of sockets and also Bahco flexi swivel head/ toggle spanner works well to get an appropriate angle but with head of nut properly seated. In terms of getting the actuator off you can feel the retaining clip and ease it off gently but be careful not to drop it otherwise you will be fishing with a magnet! Reinstatement is harder to ensure actuator properly seated and then position the clip - unfortunately you cant pre-fit clip - it has to be actuator fitted first then clip to retain. If you do dismantle complete shock absorber then note which way tapered collet is fitted otherwise you may end up going through this exercise twice. The hardest one I found is the one under the ABS unit.

 

[Rex B]

When l done mine l loosened the fuel tank bands and moved it as far to the left as it would go to give me a little more room. Then it was a case of finding the best angle by using a selection of 1/4 and 3/8 sockets ratchets and bars. I think to undo one l even used my 1/2,torque wrench with a 3/8 socket.

 

[RSM Masser]

Actuators off relatively easy - not sure about getting the clip back on will be as easy!
One of the actuators rattles a bit when shook - I do have an ERROR light so wonder if this is the cause - I forgot to check with ignition on
The battery is disconnected (physically) and this little piece keeps making a whirring noise! Any ideas what it is? It’s to the left of the fuel tank opposite side to battery and filter

 

[rs48635]

actuator with a rattle sounds like action needed. Does captain Z still offer rebuild? Similar item used on US cars (Corvette?) where the chap replaced nylon gears with aluminium
The other picture looks like inline filter or vent?

 

[RSM Masser]

Capt Z does seem to be still doing actuator rebuilds - I found his website quite easily.
I have a broken Gear on the top of the Strut hopefully replaceable I am going to send both struts to David Askew I believe he still does the refurbishment for about £130

 

[NickP]

Thanks for your response, I have tried absolutely everything but as you say I think maybe drop the tanks going to be the only way

Did you drop the tank? I'm just going through this pain now as dropping the sub frame to get my control arms sorted, its turned into a world of fun! I took out the fuel filter, that hasn't helped much.

 

[RichTaps]

I found that a wobble socket on a 3/8ths ratchet with a small socket extension did the job. No need to remove filter or the fuel tank. Without a wobble socket or similar its pretty impossible.

 

[Oneball]

Capt Z does seem to be still doing actuator rebuilds - I found his website quite easily.
I have a broken Gear on the top of the Strut hopefully replaceable I am going to send both struts to David Askew I believe he still does the refurbishment for about £130
View attachment 99055

You can get the Corvette ones. Google FX3 there’s 3 types they used over the years. One might be the same.

 

[Vince Hart]

Hi Nick no I didn’t need to drop the full tank in the end I did take off the fuel filter and made it slightly easier. I ended up using lots of extension bars and I managed to loosen one of the two nuts. But the last one at the back was really challenging and it was getting late and I was getting frustrated so I got the Grindr out and went through the stud at the top of the spacer in the wheel arch. (Not thinking if there was a spared available) The next day I rang everybody to try and get a new spacer no luck Anywhere not even a special order from Italy then I hit a bit of luck with John from McGrath Who rummaged around his shelves. A small suggestion also is to get a new set of nuts for the top of the shock as I drop to while attempting to put it back and they vanish.

 

[RSM Masser]

Sadly neither strut was repairable but thanks to Stuart Lockely a new pair sorted and waiting fitment
Weather has been a bit hot and I keep putting it off!

 

[NickP]

I've taken out the fuel tank, pretty straight forward and got the shock off in about 2 mins after that. I tried a wobble socket and all kids of other tools but no joy, I didn't want to start cutting things or putting dents in things so this is probably the proper way to do it I'd say.

BTW I now have a black wire dangling from parcel shelf that seems to come away from somewhere when removing the tank, any suggestions what this might be hooked up to most welcome, I don't want to start tearing the inside out of the car too!

 

[spkennyuk]

I've taken out the fuel tank, pretty straight forward and got the shock off in about 2 mins after that. I tried a wobble socket and all kids of other tools but no joy, I didn't want to start cutting things or putting dents in things so this is probably the proper way to do it I'd say.

BTW I now have a black wire dangling from parcel shelf that seems to come away from somewhere when removing the tank, any suggestions what this might be hooked up to most welcome, I don't want to start tearing the inside out of the car too!

The black wire could be the 3rd brake light or could be the cable remaining if its had the tracker removed. Post a picture of the connector and i may be able to tell you what it is.

 

[NickP]

The black wire could be the 3rd brake light or could be the cable remaining if its had the tracker removed. Post a picture of the connector and i may be able to tell you what it is.

Yeah I was thinking that, unfortunately there is no connector on the end of it, just a black wire :-(

 

[spkennyuk]

Yeah I was thinking that, unfortunately there is no connector on the end of it, just a black wire :-(

Is the tracker still insitue ? Its a two tone back box about 12 inches long x 5 inches wide. A two thirds of it is silver/black in colour and one third is a purple/red black colour. The whole thing sits on a silver tray with 2 aerials.

3 or 4 cables should go to it. A black rod type aerial encases in plastic. A gps antenna and the main power supply cable. There was loads of cable bundled up on mine. It could be yours has been cut out leaving some of the cable behind.

3rd brake light should be easy to rule out if its still working.

Can you see how many cores are in the wire ? Might give us more of a clue.

 

[NickP]

Dont think mine ever had a tracker, so guess its the brake light, once I get the rear sub frame back in and drop the car I'll check it out! Thanks