I say public holiday; and then I end up doing a full 12hour work day, YAY
OK so, I been doing Masa things. Sat in the engine bay for a silly few hours playing the fun game of, why the **** won't this come out.
TRW say they are clueless about their own product.
Which product am I talking about; well it's the steering rack! (yes, I fought hard removing one of the ends, using the correct tool sadface
I did sit for a couple hours searching for alternatives to the original TRW parts to get them ordered and on the way.
-> Hyundai Accent 2 is a doable method(I'll make my own inserts, except I need to take the hub off and press the existing ones out.. EVEN MORE WORK)
-> Fiat Stilo(which in a photograph, look to be identically close but anyone tried these?)
My method to check is insufficient as I can't get any technical data of these products anywhere. They either fit or don't and that's what's killer.
So Question to all; what's doable in 2022 for both Tie-Ends and Gaiter boots! I know TenCAR sell this stuff, but $120 for each Tie-End is well. a bit much for a $10 piece of steel. And really, a $5 piece of rubber. (says the idiot who paid 990 euro for 3 headgaskets (fun story which I'm yet to get to))
And where I left off! Mid-September
Knock sensors; down and torqued to 20nm("2.0 to 2.5 kgf.m"
) as specified by NTK, or the internet. same same at this point
New bearings in dry, as well as the three drain plugs underneath! Loctite + copper washer(for the central duct only) and sealed. Tight!
And then we play important measurements!
Bottom on and all nuts torqued to spec, to make sure we've got enough oil clearance. Which on paper added up perfectly (I'll put all the data in a later post when I can be bothered typing lots of numbers
It was around 9pm and I think I called it a day by putting the sump cover on and towel over it all. NEXT DAY!
Bottom off, gloves on, oil out and 180degrees we go! followed by precarious surface preparations hehe
O-Ring onto the liner and no lubrication on the liner itself. Carefully oiled the cylinders and made sure to not get any on the chamfer or it would be game over dictated by the manual!!!!
I made fun videos of just sliding these in; might put it on YT or something, if people would like to see that?
Installed everything; redone all the piston ring orientations so that they were perfect. Made sure the crown markings were facing the correct way both sides, conrod chamfer facing the correct way too and ta-da!
Soooo. I then realised a big problem. If I turn the block 180 degrees for the next step, I will lose my pistons and liners haha.........
Stepped out for a good two hours on break, for any excess oil to settle and run down and made cardboard plates to hold the liners in position so they would not fall out.
A treat that was!
Caps off! Brand new bearings in. Caps On.?. and check the CLEARANCE because I was a little silly to do it earlier
Caps off!! Lube on and crank time! END BEARINGS IN, with a little bit of grease(as seen in the photo above). Oil Seal on!
And then, only then. Finally laying the crank in, as demonstrated in Fig. 176, and then pushing all the pistons up, allowing the connecting rods to mate with the crank.
Conrod side gaps checked; and all passed their test!
Surfaces cleaned and prepped for application
And then I realised... New O-Ring seals, laying the gasket into the track and hang on...
It terminates into the oil seal. Off it comes for a perfect cut :|
Photo limit again... I'd love 15 photos a post; would be phenomenal. or well.. I can just post and keep going
Hope I didn't miss anything