Indicator issue

AG2728

Member
Messages
120
I've had my 4200CC for nearly 3 months now and sent it away for a service and general check over and the car now drives like a dream. I only have one niggling issue which I thought I could live with, but I am now finding it annoying.

When I use the indicators, it takes about 180 degrees of lock before they cancel. This means that unless I am turning at a 90 degree T junction, I find myself having to manually cancel the indicators (or driving for miles with them still flashing, which is not cool).

I would add that my steering wheel looks like an OE item but the top section of the rim, above the spokes is carbon fibre not leather, which suggests it may be an aftermarket item and is possibly the reason for the problem.

Any chance of someone checking approximately what amount of lock needs to be applied to cancel your own indicators prior to me dismantling/repairing/modifying/replacing the mechanism?

Thanks in advance.
 

bigbob

Member
Messages
8,966
On mine it stopped self cancelling completely going one way so count yourself lucky! Will be a weak switch, something that can be looked at at your next service.

The other option is to drive it like a BMW.......
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,761
Sounds like you have a GS wheel you lucky chap.
If that was fitted afterwards, it may be that the pawls / cams that drive the self cancelling may not be correctly aligned. Can't help how you'd fix it, but it should be comparatively simple, that being the case.

C
 

Chrisbassett

Member
Messages
3,909
IMG_3317.jpg

The white piece in the image rotates with the wheel/column, and pushes the black tabs to cancel the indicators. If it's not aligned correctly, it could be 90º out, I guess and mean you need to turn the wheel a long way.

This is how it appears behind the wheel, but be careful of the airbag if you investigate - switch off the battery for 15 minutes before trying to remove the wheel.

IMG_3318.jpg
 
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CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,761
View attachment 16673

The white piece in the image rotates with the wheel/column, and pushes the black tabs to cancel the indicators. If it's not aligned correctly, it could be 90º out, I guess and mean you need to turn the wheel a long way.

This is how it appears behind the wheel, but be careful of the airbag if you investigate - switch off the battery for 15 minutes before trying to remove the wheel.

View attachment 16674

Nice one, Chris.

Is that alignment correct? I'd expect to see the teeth on the white nylon pulley in between the black lugs when the wheel is dead ahead? Or are the white teeth meant to be at 12 o'clock?
C
 

Chrisbassett

Member
Messages
3,909
Nice one, Chris.

Is that alignment correct? I'd expect to see the teeth on the white nylon pulley in between the black lugs when the wheel is dead ahead? Or are the white teeth meant to be at 12 o'clock?
C

I just rotated the white bit to photograph the engagement against the black bits, but I think they would be at 12 & 6 o'clock in straight ahead position in real life, but I don't know...I had mine fitted for me.
 
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AG2728

Member
Messages
120
Thanks. The pics are very useful. I will set about it this weekend. I can take the opportunity to attend to the delaminated airbag cover while I am at it.

I am now more curious as to the cause of my problem. Looking at the photos, it seems logical that cancellation should occur at 90 degrees. I could understand if my indicators didn't cancel at all but mine cancel at exactly 180 degrees. The only thing I can think is that maybe the white disc is misaligned by 90 degrees and that the first set of lugs are worn or damaged, leaving the opposite set of lugs to cancel the process, if that makes sense (it does to me anyway).

I will report back after investigation. Thanks for all the input.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,761
Thanks. The pics are very useful. I will set about it this weekend. I can take the opportunity to attend to the delaminated airbag cover while I am at it.

I am now more curious as to the cause of my problem. Looking at the photos, it seems logical that cancellation should occur at 90 degrees. I could understand if my indicators didn't cancel at all but mine cancel at exactly 180 degrees. The only thing I can think is that maybe the white disc is misaligned by 90 degrees and that the first set of lugs are worn or damaged, leaving the opposite set of lugs to cancel the process, if that makes sense (it does to me anyway).

I will report back after investigation. Thanks for all the input.

The 90 degree offset makes sense on the face of it, I suspect.

C
 

AG2728

Member
Messages
120
"I'm just going into the garage love. Should only be about 1/2 an hour".

Why is it all the seemingly simple jobs are the ones that tend to be the cause of the most epic frustration?

1) Disconnect battery
2) Remove 2 airbag TTAP retaining bolts
3) Disconnect airbag connector with some fear and trepidation
4) Allow adreniline levels to settle
5) Remove 4 steering wheel hex bolts
6) Disconnect horn wiring
7) Remove wheel
8) Remove 4 hex bolts and a screw to remove upper and lower column cowling
9) Loosen nut and attempt to remove steering wheel boss
10) Repeat 9 ad infinitum
11) Go for a brew and consult the internet

This is where I am at. This is the steering wheel of uncertain provenance. As you can see it has a CF rim and I am unsure as to whether it is an OE option or some aftermarket item. That said, this should make no difference to my indicator issues.

photo 1.jpg

It has a (meaningless to me) part number and is a Momo item.

photo 2.jpg

This shows the delamination on the airbag cover which I will strip and re-bond whilst everything is in pieces.

photo 3.jpg

This is the point where progress is halted. I am now confronted with the boss which seems immoveable.

photo 4.jpg

I have bolted the wheel back on and loosened the nut slightly in order that I do not get hit in the face when I pull the boss off, but it is not for budging.

I have even tried to tease the boss from its splines by means of my rubber mallet but this has been totally ineffective. I am determined not to resort to butchery as this item is surrounded by flimsy plastic trim items and delicate micro switches and I really don't want it to end in tears.

Furthermore, the boss itself is made from that nasty crinkly lightweight cast alloy cheese like material with a cooled volcanic lava type texture, only found in 1970's Corgi model car chassis and as used for various bracketry in low end mail order flatpack nests of glass top tables. I cannot afford to be any more 'enthusiastic' without running the gauntlet of causing a crack which would doubtless find its route staight though one of the threaded retaining holes, rendering the thing as a useless item of scrap that would still need removing from the column.

My knowledge of forensics gained from watching the first series of CSI Miami gives me a valuable insight in that I am now certain that others have been here before. The phillips screw heads holding the brass contact look like they have been attacked with a succesion of inappropriate farmyard implements and as such are rounded to oblivion.

Have I missed something simple but fundemental?

I am now immersed in self pity and will take time to decide on my next move. This may involve alcohol.

Anybody?
 
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CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,761
You need a puller, sir.

eBay can provide plenty, which is not, at this point, massively helpful.

Alcohol will improve the situation, I am sure.

Can I make first dibs that if you ever wish to divest yourself of that wheel, I will gladly drive to Wigan and assist you in just about anything that your heart may desire.

C
 

mjheathcote

Centenary Club
Messages
9,038
It's defo a genuine Maserati wheel that was an option. Not the same style as the GS wheel, but nice all the same.
 

MAF260

Member
Messages
7,662
I took the wheel off my old 3200 a while back and don't remember having any trouble removing it. Have you tried to take it off with the keys in the ignition, possibly turned to ignition on? I know I have to do this on my E30 as it's caught me out many, many times!
 

AG2728

Member
Messages
120
It seems like I will indeed need a puller. I have one but it is too big for the job. Just can't remember having to resort to using a puller before to remove a steering wheel.

Will try the ignition thing though.

It will have to wait till tomorrow as I did choose the alcohol route.

Thanks for the replies. I will advise on progress, should I encounter any.
 

Phil the Brit

Member
Messages
1,499
Removed wheels on many cars (not a Maserati) and the trick was always to leave the nut loosely on which, as you say stops you getting a mouthful of wheel when it comes loose. The trick for me has always been to bash the rear of each side of the wheel simultaneously with the palm of each hand. If done evenly it comes off. If you bash only one side or the other it doesn't.
 

MAF260

Member
Messages
7,662
Unless somebody before you has lined up the splines incorrectly I'd be very surprised if you need a puller. I've never had to use one and have taken many off in my time.
 

Chrisbassett

Member
Messages
3,909
From the issues with the indicators it sounds like something in there isn't lined up correctly...good luck I'm sure it'll all come together.