Electrical guides or schemas for 4200?

[TKoos]

I have done some progress in my stealthy sound upgrade, pictures and that later.
Right now I use the trigger for the removed CD-changer as a trigger for my Amplifier, but as that one activates on "step two" on the ignition key I'm looking for something I can tap into that's 12V already on "step one".
Ideally I would like to have a full electrical schema but as I cannot find that I guess my best shot is to ask you if you know anything in the boot area that I can tap into?

 

[Zep]

I have done some progress in my stealthy sound upgrade, pictures and that later.
Right now I use the trigger for the removed CD-changer as a trigger for my Amplifier, but as that one activates on "step two" on the ignition key I'm looking for something I can tap into that's 12V already on "step one".
Ideally I would like to have a full electrical schema but as I cannot find that I guess my best shot is to ask you if you know anything in the boot area that I can tap into?

You need a permanent live? I would just take it from the battery.

 

[TKoos]

You need a permanent live? I would just take it from the battery.

Nah, that is already take care of. I need the trigger 12V that turns the amplifier on when I turn the key to position 1.

 

[Zep]

Ah. Well if this is anything to go by, you’ll need to run a wire from the cigarette lighter in the centre console.

 

[TKoos]

Ah. Well if this is anything to go by, you’ll need to run a wire from the cigarette lighter in the centre console.

View attachment 85967

Yeah, I saw that in the manual but hoped that maybe there was more stuff powered on than the cigarette lighter.
But thank you for your reply, it made me realise that I should use the lighter 12V to feed the wire I already are using. Just remove the plug from the NIT, remove the connector from the plug and then combine it with the cigarette lighter 12V.
It's great to get new input and ideas, thank you!

 

[FIFTY]

There is a 12v positive trigger cable that runs into the back of the NIT plug which is what I spliced into

Should be shown on the PIN diagram for the NIT connector. Cigarette lighter will work too but if you want to keep it on the same circuit then that's how to do it.

 

[TKoos]

There is a 12v positive trigger cable that runs into the back of the NIT plug which is what I spliced into

Should be shown on the PIN diagram for the NIT connector. Cigarette lighter will work too but if you want to keep it on the same circuit then that's how to do it.

That's the connector I use today, but the key has to be in pos.2 for it to give 12V.

 

[FIFTY]

That's the connector I use today, but the key has to be in pos.2 for it to give 12V.

I believe it's the same for all of the switched circuits on the car other than maybe the interior lighting... I cannot remember if it stays on for 5 minutes after the ignition is switched off or if it is permanently live.

I think the cigarette lighter switches off with the ignition also but I cannot check as my car is not with me at the moment.

Edit: do you want to use a permanent live for the signalling? I would have thought switched is better but I am no electrical engineer.

 

[TKoos]

I believe it's the same for all of the switched circuits on the car other than maybe the interior lighting... I cannot remember if it stays on for 5 minutes after the ignition is switched off or if it is permanently live.

I think the cigarette lighter switches off with the ignition also but I cannot check as my car is not with me at the moment.

Edit: do you want to use a permanent live for the signalling? I would have thought switched is better but I am no electrical engineer.

I want to use a switched live to switch the amplifier on and off. The cigarette lighter seems to be the best option as it goes live at key in pos.1 If it switches off in the "start engine" position (3) that's ok.

 

[FIFTY]

I want to use a switched live to switch the amplifier on and off. The cigarette lighter seems to be the best option as it goes live at key in pos.1 If it switches off in the "start engine" position (3) that's ok.

Cool. Let me know how it goes I will do the same thing to mine

 

[TKoos]

Cool. Let me know how it goes I will do the same thing to mine

Sure thing

 

[TKoos]

Cool. Let me know how it goes I will do the same thing to mine

This worked like a charm. I cut the black(! amazing to find that the black wire was +12V ^^) wire going from the connector to the cigarette lighter output and put both ends in a three way wago connector:

In the last port I put a small short wire that connects to REMOTE in on my amplifier. As I use the already installed wire harness that runs to the CD-changer I cut that wire aft of the NIT-unit and connected it to my 12V switched wire from the cigarette lighter.

If I would have known from the beginning that this was the way it would end up I would have used new wires instead of tampering with the stock cable harnesses.

 

[FIFTY]

Great thanks for the write up

I am going to repair my harness and take this approach. I used crimp connectors while I tried to be tidy it does not look very professional so I am going to rework it with soldered shrink wrap connectors

 

[Oneball]

Great thanks for the write up

I am going to repair my harness and take this approach. I used crimp connectors while I tried to be tidy it does not look very professional so I am going to rework it with soldered shrink wrap connectors

I used the crimp and shrink ones that also have an adhesive, they’re much better than the old crimp types.

 

[TKoos]

It looks quite interesting, have you tooled up a whole new dashboard? What model is this?

 

[philw696]

@TKoos it's a Corvette Race Car Tims building very impressively.

 

[TKoos]

Looks impressive, indeed.