Anyone know anything about electrics - GU10, low voltage or LED spotlights?

[rossyl]

Hi All,

We are in the process of planning a renovation and am getting lost when it comes to lighting spotlights.

What we'd like are dimmable spotlights. What I don't know is whether to get: low voltage halogen spotlights, GU10 mains voltage spotlights or LED dimmable spotlights?

I think GU10 mains voltage spots are the most expensive to run
I think low voltage halogens are more expensive than GU10, but are cheaper to run
LED dimmable spots I hear are expensive.

I do not know if either GU10 fittings or low voltage halogen fittings allow you to buy, at a later date,replacement LED fittings that will be dimmable.

If anyone can shed any light I would be grateful.

Thanks,
R

 

[CatmanV2]

My experience of GU10 LED's is that they are a complete waste of time. This was about three years ago, so no doubt the technology has improved, but I wouldn't bet on it that much.
Both 12 and 240v LED bulbs are available, so I can't see retrofitting dimmable ones being an issue.

C

 

[dunnah01]

My halogen GU10's only seemed to last about 3 months so I replaced them with LED's - these give a very cold blue light compared to halogens so had to go. I'm back with halogens and just replace them regularly. I've just order yellow SMD's to replace the under cabinet G4 12V spots - the halogens last about 12 seconds so need replacing all the bl**dy time. I think all bulbs are dimmable if the right transformer is used.

 

[CatmanV2]

Dunnah, are they fitted firmly? Mine are over 2 years old now....
C

 

[Marti]

Hi All,

We are in the process of planning a renovation and am getting lost when it comes to lighting spotlights.

What we'd like are dimmable spotlights. What I don't know is whether to get: low voltage halogen spotlights, GU10 mains voltage spotlights or LED dimmable spotlights?

I think GU10 mains voltage spots are the most expensive to run
I think low voltage halogens are more expensive than GU10, but are cheaper to run
LED dimmable spots I hear are expensive.

I do not know if either GU10 fittings or low voltage halogen fittings allow you to buy, at a later date,replacement LED fittings that will be dimmable.

If anyone can shed any light I would be grateful.

Thanks,
R

Cool white LED (GU10) are the thing to have we fit them to most projects we do. There are non dim ones and dim ones. You can retro fit the dim ones later (both are 240 supply so NOT low voltage) they are marked up 7w (same as a 50w halogen) the LED pulls less juice than a normal halogen or GU10 lamp so keeps planning officers happy!!!!!!! The cost are rather expensive around £10 + VAT each to the trade for some reason the dimmable are slightly cheaper at £8.50 + VAT. As a side note you need to keep an eye on how many you put on one circuit as dim switches are max 450w capacity!! Spooky enough I just placed an order for 60 non dimmable putting me back £720!!!!!! ....for light bulbs!!!!!

 

[MAF260]

Any of you professionals/contractors/large domestic orders - a very good friend of mine owns a large electrical wholesaler in London. I can pass his details on if anyone wants.

 

[rossyl]

Thanks guys.

Here's a thought. Would it be possible to install a halogen dimmable circuit, mains or low voltage, then in a year do a straight swap - LEDs bulbs for the halogens?

 

[rossyl]

MAF please can you send details? I'm struggling with costs on my build so any help would be great. We met at the Xmas Herts meet if you recall.

Cheers
Ross

 

[mjheathcote]

LED's are getting better.
Low voltage Halogens came about because main voltage Halogens where not possible at the time.
People think that because they are low voltage, they are cheap to run, but a watt, is a watt, either 12v or 240v and you have efficiency losses running a transformer down to 12v too!
Our house is full of GU10's, and I have replaced half with LED GU10's in areas that the whiter light does not matter. Halls, landings, bathrooms, kids bedrooms etc.
They are about £5 each now, and give the same light output, but still not 'warm' enough for the lounge areas for me.
Don't think that if you have dimmable GU10's they are cheaper to run when turned down, they still cost the same, the money simply goes through heat in a resistor instead of light output!

 

[Marti]

Yeah can send me details to if poss, seem to spend shed loads on electrics!! ......very strange thread but good to help online friends.

 

[Emtee]

I have these d@mned things all over the place (no dimming) and have found out through bitter experience that the transformer is key. They seem to generally run 4 spots, but on the cheaper sets, as soon as one spot goes the others will go within days. I ended up scrambling about in my loft and floor spaces replacing them with better transformers and they've lasted without any issues since then - +5 years on some. I'm running halogens rather than LED's.

 

[MAF260]

PMs sent to those who wanted details

 

[TridentTested]

as soon as one spot goes the others will go within days.

That's because the tranny overruns the remaining three lamps.

The quality of the lamp (bulb) is also important. My home is nearly entirely 12V 50W GU5.3 lamps on Intram Barwell transformers. They were installed in 1990 and I can count on the fingers of one hand the number of lamps I've replaced since. I remember at the time it was typical to pay roughly a tenner for the fitting, a tenner for the tranny and nearly a tenner for the lamp. The lamps in my place would be Osram or Philips. It is possible to buy these lamps nowadays from the pound-shop in packets of four. I'm sure they'll work but they won't last twenty years like the originals have.

Most of the circuits I have are dimmed and I usually run them dimmed. You are right that I'm not saving any watts but by under-running the lamps I'm certainly saving lamp life. The only ones I've replaced are in the bathrooms and kitchen which aren't dimmed.

I seem to remember if you under-run a lamp by 10% you double its life.