CatmanV2
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OK, thanks for bearing with me. If any of you are interested in adding remote boot opening to your classic 4200 (with the black key) here's a way to do it that does not involve the quoter £1100 for a new alarm system
Couple of notes:
This is how *I* did it. I've been messing around with cars for 20+ years. I'm not a pro, I'm not an expert. I you don't like how I did it, don't do it my way Do it yours, and post another, better 'how to'
Scotchlock connectors. I've heard lots of people that seem to think these things are spawn of satan. Equally I've been using them for years and never *every* had one fail. I'd *probably not use them for a mission critical application, but if the connector in this fails the worst outcome could be inability to us the glovebox button, and maybe a blown fuse if the damaged wire connects to the chassis when the button was pressed, or the release activated. I think this is an acceptable risk, so I used a scotchlok. If you don't like them, use something else
Now on with the show!
First get your remote control. I opted for one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150969772847?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Seemed cheap enough, and the plib is pleasingly solid with a metal frame and a sliding cover over the buttons. Delivery was prompt to on to the instruction manual:
Not the greatest, but I've dealt with worse documentation from our development team From this I can see that it's pretty simple, and I know I need 12v to trigger the solenoid so I connected the positive feed (red) to the input (yellow and black) of the switched output (black and white) that I'd chosen to use, like this:
I've also shorted the yellow and black cable (arrowed in orange) and you can see the connector, arrowed in blue.
Now what do we do with it? You don't need to do this but, unless you want to
The boot lid of a 4200 is lined. The lining is held on with plastic pins, arrowed in green:
I find the best way to get these off is a gentle pry with a flat bladed screwdriver to shift them, and then one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELECTRICA...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2319336a8e
You can get the (blunt jaws) under the head, and then lever without much fear of damaging anything. So all clips removed and the lining comes off to reveal:
The connector for the boot release can be clearly seen, and the blue and white cable, arrowed in blue, is the one we need to hit with 12v to open things up. I found this out by sticking a meter on it, and getting a willing assistant to press the button in the glove box.
However, I don't *really* want to run a new cable into the boot, and through the conduit, that's just going to be hard. So where does this cable go? Find out in the next exciting installment
C
Couple of notes:
This is how *I* did it. I've been messing around with cars for 20+ years. I'm not a pro, I'm not an expert. I you don't like how I did it, don't do it my way Do it yours, and post another, better 'how to'
Scotchlock connectors. I've heard lots of people that seem to think these things are spawn of satan. Equally I've been using them for years and never *every* had one fail. I'd *probably not use them for a mission critical application, but if the connector in this fails the worst outcome could be inability to us the glovebox button, and maybe a blown fuse if the damaged wire connects to the chassis when the button was pressed, or the release activated. I think this is an acceptable risk, so I used a scotchlok. If you don't like them, use something else
Now on with the show!
First get your remote control. I opted for one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150969772847?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Seemed cheap enough, and the plib is pleasingly solid with a metal frame and a sliding cover over the buttons. Delivery was prompt to on to the instruction manual:
Not the greatest, but I've dealt with worse documentation from our development team From this I can see that it's pretty simple, and I know I need 12v to trigger the solenoid so I connected the positive feed (red) to the input (yellow and black) of the switched output (black and white) that I'd chosen to use, like this:
I've also shorted the yellow and black cable (arrowed in orange) and you can see the connector, arrowed in blue.
Now what do we do with it? You don't need to do this but, unless you want to
The boot lid of a 4200 is lined. The lining is held on with plastic pins, arrowed in green:
I find the best way to get these off is a gentle pry with a flat bladed screwdriver to shift them, and then one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELECTRICA...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2319336a8e
You can get the (blunt jaws) under the head, and then lever without much fear of damaging anything. So all clips removed and the lining comes off to reveal:
The connector for the boot release can be clearly seen, and the blue and white cable, arrowed in blue, is the one we need to hit with 12v to open things up. I found this out by sticking a meter on it, and getting a willing assistant to press the button in the glove box.
However, I don't *really* want to run a new cable into the boot, and through the conduit, that's just going to be hard. So where does this cable go? Find out in the next exciting installment
C
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