4200 audio screen bezel

fcz360

Frankie Wankhand
Messages
816
has anyone got in their box of bits, a center screen bezel for a 4200 - im experimenting on replacing the useless screen with one of the new modular units from Pioneer, but need to scan for a CAD file and then cut and chop it up a bit!
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,287
Yes - but it's been CF dipped.
Perhaps search again on Maserati Life for the CAD file.
Edwin247 had one and I think one or two others.
 
Last edited:

2b1ask1

Centenary Club
Messages
15,984
Frank, I believe it is possible to discount the screen and even the button set and keep all the connections in place but put them away behind the console on the 4200 so as to not upset the CAN-BUS and then you could put something like an iPad mini with a bezel in its place? Assume this is your intention? I did some work toward doing this before mine was nicked.
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,287
Assume this is your intention?
There's a class of hub or module based systems now - Alpine Freestyle, Pioneer DMH, etc. Re: moving the existing screen it is straight forward enough. The NIT too if required although these hubs will fit under the seat.
 

fcz360

Frankie Wankhand
Messages
816
I am planning to use one of the pioneer modular systems so i can place the actual unit in the boot and keep the current screen somewhere else. just need to keep the unit so i dont use the lighting on the buttons on the lower screen.
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,287
You "may" struggle to put the Pioneer hub in the boot. They do offer an extension cable for the screen connect but its only 1.5M. Whether you could connect a few together? From memory, with sensible routing, you need about 11' length from rear corner to central dash.

Moving & keeping the infoscreen in the canbus system is simple to do using extensions to the original loom & NIT cabling. The grey NIT cable is 10 core, shielded, and uses connectors made with Hirose GT17 components. The 6 pin white screen connector uses TE Connectivity .070 Multi-lock components.

Have fun!
 
Last edited:

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,287
NIT cable Hirose GT17

To make a new NIT cable the following parts are required:

60981


To extend the original NIT cable make a new cable with a header at one end instead:

60935


In both cases make a straight through cable, i.e. pin1 to pin1, with a max. cable OD of 8mm.
I used Lapp Kabel 0034510 which is 8.3mm and it was fine. Total cost approx. £15.
The centre terminals are fiddly bu**ers to crimp & insert but if not able an auto-electrician should oblige.
You can add a ferrite core to the cable if you like but it's not been needed.



Screen Loom Connectors TE Connectivity .070

60936

Having been quoted £25 (+shipping +VAT) for the male plug (which was "strange") original parts were sourced instead.
I used AWG 18 cores as had a bit left over from some other cabling. Total cable cost approx. £5.



Edit

If you want to the move the NIT too you can also extend both the ISO connection A and the white loom connection.
Highlighted green & red respectively below.

60993




NIT Loom Connector TE Connectivity MQS

60988

Ignore that the housing shown is black - it's a generic image.
You may have to fettle the original header at the back of the NIT to fit though.
One corner at the front edge is square rather than angled. Circled in blue above for comparison.
Carefully shave that back to an angle and the original loom connector still fits securely.
It will be obvious what needs to be done when the connectors are offered up.

Although an 18 pin header only 9 pins are used - 2, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, 16, 17, & 18.
As with the NIT cable header, wires were soldered to the pins, heat shrunk, hot glued and taped for rigidity.
Total cable cost approx. £12


Summary

By using headers to make extension cables, without cutting or splicing original wiring, the process is easily reversible if required.
Both screen and NIT now reside in the boot where the CD changer used to be. Freeing up space up front for new equipment.
I haven't experienced any issues with signal integrity - in terms of strength nor interference.

Have also added a converter module to process NIT image signals for display on the replacement head-unit.
Together with a bridged, non-shorting, 2 pole rotary switch to give direct control over several functions of the original screen.
On/Off, Trip A/B, Trip Reset, etc. Wires are soldered as follows:

61680



Note - all connector parts bought from Mouser which offered a fantastic level of service.
 
Last edited:

fcz360

Frankie Wankhand
Messages
816
im not an auto electrican - afraid in a mechanical engineer - so thats all a bit over my head

but ill get my auto electrician to have a look for me, so thanks for all that advice

Have you done this on a car then?
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,287
There's not much to it frankly, Frank :smile:
Just a fair bit of time to install - the connections need be 100% though.
Hence the suggestion about using an auto-electrician to make up the cables.
Particularly the NIT cable as the crimps are very small.
For reference, this is the insulator for the 10 terminals required.

61019


I like the look of the Pioneer you're planning. If it were my choice I'd not bother moving the NIT, I'd simply put the Pioneer under a seat.
All you need to do then is decide where you want to site the infoscreen. Which would be more a question of whether you want easy access to it.
 
Last edited:

mjheathcote

Centenary Club
Messages
7,008
There's not much to it frankly, Frank :smile:
Just a fair bit of time to install - the connections need be 100% though.
Hence the suggestion about using an auto-electrician to make up the cables.
Particularly the NIT cable as the crimps are very small.
For reference, this is the insulator for the 10 terminals required.

View attachment 61019


I like the look of the Pioneer you're planning. If it were my choice I'd not bother moving the NIT, I'd simply put the Pioneer under a seat.
All you need to do then is decide where you want to site the screen. Which would be more a question of whether you want easy access to it.
Very interesting.
What's in its place then?
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,287
A double din Kenwood. With the main box installed where the the NIT used to be and the 7" touch screen remote-mounted in the dash.

Have / am remodelling an original surround and have retained a number of the original buttons. Albeit, reassigned for different functions. Other than the hazard of course. This stage is almost complete with just the button illumination to sort. Essentially, keeping as much as possible of the look and feel of the original layout.

For example, the selection dial on the right hand side now operates an inline bass volume controller instead. The on/off/volume dial on the other side has been reassigned to control the rotary switch mentioned previously. Which controls which of the info screens gets displayed when required.

61025

Trip options for example are useful to have access to. Also decided to keep access to the radio screen - which is oddly satisfying when listening to The Archers :smile:

One last thought. I quite like a car stereo, and whilst I prefer the functionality of a "proper" stereo, the new phone based hub systems are very good. Probably suit far more people than what Ive done and certainly an awful lot simpler to install too.
 
Last edited:

mjheathcote

Centenary Club
Messages
7,008
Neat.
What converter module did you use, and how is this wired, to get the original display screen on the new screen?
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,287

Although the vendor has subsequently sold out.
Another NIT cable was made with the RGBs signals diverted to the module.
It outputs in composite to a video-in on the Kenwood.

Another cable installed. Which I was doing when I had a shelving collapse in the garage.
Still can't believe I got away without a scratch there.
 

mjheathcote

Centenary Club
Messages
7,008

Although the vendor has subsequently sold out.
Another NIT cable was made with the RGBs signals diverted to the module.
It outputs in composite to a video-in on the Kenwood.

Another cable installed. Which I was doing when I had a shelving collapse in the garage.
Still can't believe I got away without a scratch there.
Okay sounds simple!!
It would be neat if you could just replace the original screen only, or have a switch box so the original screen could accept another source signal.
If you have determined the original NIT source can be converted, I'm sure there must be something available.
Like this?

 
Last edited:

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,287
Without trying it I wouldn't like to say one way or another. There would be a number of considerations though. Firstly, the screen connects to the PCB via a flat ribbon cable - not something to bugger about with imo. So I wouldn't try and display signals directly.

As that box has RGB output though it may be possible to feed those signals via a custom NIT cable. To be processed by the onboard chipset as if they were coming from the NIT. The considerations here are whether the box signal output is NTSC, at the correct voltages and whether it can manage the sync requirements.

Sync could be a stumbling block as pretty much all of the converters researched worked with separate horizontal & vertical sync signals. The NIT doesn't output seperately though which is what prompted the experiment with the converter I'm using. It's simplicity is its main advantage. If that box could be made to work though, as you've said, you would want the ability to switch between signal sources easily. A simple multi channel relay would do that.

All that said, if keeping the original screen is a prerequisite, why not install a carplay system similar to the Naviplus. With a smaller overlay obviously. There maybe a few tweaks necessary but it "really" couldn't be difficult to work out.
 
Last edited:

mjheathcote

Centenary Club
Messages
7,008
The video interface I understand comes with a little remote to swop input signals, and if senses a reverse light switches to the rear view camera. That would be neat.
In reality, apart from doing it as a bit of a hobby, just don't do the mileage in the car to be worth the hassle.
I notice they do video interface kits for BMW's complete with the interface leads. Can see the benefits with my daily adding one just for a reversing camera.
Do post up when you have finished your install.
I do find it interesting.
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,287
The video interface I understand comes with a little remote to swop input signals, and if senses a reverse light switches to the rear view camera. That would be neat.
In reality, apart from doing it as a bit of a hobby, just don't do the mileage in the car to be worth the hassle.
I notice they do video interface kits for BMW's complete with the interface leads. Can see the benefits with my daily adding one just for a reversing camera.
Do post up when you have finished your install.
I do find it interesting.
That's fair enough, which is why I wasn't going to bother posting up anything here - haven't detected much of an appetite for these installs. Some of the MaseratiLife guys on the other hand - they love to get stuck in. Most of the info. is quite old now though but still useful.

Re: the box above, found this:

Just had a quick scan through and they can "hijack" the factory ribbon cable. I recall one of the US guys (BeeYouZeeZee) a few years ago made reference to the NIT flat ribbon configuration being in a standard format. I'll try and find the post as this could well be a possibility.
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,287
Here you go:


The Toshiba screen has a 30 pin flat ribbon whereas I count 28 pins on the hijack board.

61057

Maybe worth an email to the vendor to see if they have alternatives. Checking very carefully the configuration.
 
Last edited:

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,287
I notice they do video interface kits for BMW's complete with the interface leads.
Another thought which may/may not be of interest. I've a spare infoscreen screen - the flat ribbon cable from which you'd be welcome to have.
I picked up a complete infoscreen assembly with a non-functioning screen - its the surround from this I'm remodelling and I used the pcb to keep in the system.
My original assembly is tucked away safely in a box!

Anyway, that hijack board above looks like a relay control system. Something along the lines of:

Where most of the connections to the screen are left to pass through with only the RGBs being diverted - when detected from the box you mentioned.
Maybe worth an experiment? If so you're welcome to ribbon cable, alternatively, perhaps see if that vendor has an option for a system that uses a Toshiba screen.
 
Last edited: