3200 alternator
- Thread starter beau
- Start date
2b1ask1
Special case
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- 20,283
It is starting to look like a broken or squashed wire somewhere Beau; miserable for you and frustrating no doubt...
Slightly obscure but many years ago I had a motorbike that kept going berserk and blowing all the bulbs etc. I chased the fault for weeks till eventually found a cracked block connector plug on the voltage regulator.... Good luck.
Slightly obscure but many years ago I had a motorbike that kept going berserk and blowing all the bulbs etc. I chased the fault for weeks till eventually found a cracked block connector plug on the voltage regulator.... Good luck.
the thing is tho, the car was driven, left untouched, then it stopped charging so im thinking its got to be relay/fuse somewhere.
iv looked the wiring diagrams and im pretty useless, if anyone has the 3200, it looks like number 57 is the alternator and then it goes to a box numbered 61, which im not sure what it is?
iv looked the wiring diagrams and im pretty useless, if anyone has the 3200, it looks like number 57 is the alternator and then it goes to a box numbered 61, which im not sure what it is?
ledlights
Junior Member
- Messages
- 189
Hi Beau,
I've gone and had a look at my car and gone through the wiring diagrams for you. The charge lead comes off the alternator and goes behind the water pump above the V and straight onto the starter motor. From there, another lead goes straight back to the positive terminal on the battery. I couldn't see any fuses on this part of the circuit. So if there is a connection problem it'll be along there.
How about trying this..... If you disconnect the +ve from the battery and the charge lead from the back of the alternator (easier said than done, I know) can you run a continuity test between them with your multimeter? If you haven't got continuity, either a cable has cracked or you've had a connection come off. Unfortunately, the starter is under the plenum chamber, so it looks like that might have to come off. As your starter motor is working, my guess is a fault with the charge lead from the alternator to the starter motor.
I hope this has made sense, I've sent you a PM if you want to get in touch directly.
Regards,
Steve
I've gone and had a look at my car and gone through the wiring diagrams for you. The charge lead comes off the alternator and goes behind the water pump above the V and straight onto the starter motor. From there, another lead goes straight back to the positive terminal on the battery. I couldn't see any fuses on this part of the circuit. So if there is a connection problem it'll be along there.
How about trying this..... If you disconnect the +ve from the battery and the charge lead from the back of the alternator (easier said than done, I know) can you run a continuity test between them with your multimeter? If you haven't got continuity, either a cable has cracked or you've had a connection come off. Unfortunately, the starter is under the plenum chamber, so it looks like that might have to come off. As your starter motor is working, my guess is a fault with the charge lead from the alternator to the starter motor.
I hope this has made sense, I've sent you a PM if you want to get in touch directly.
Regards,
Steve
ledlights
Junior Member
- Messages
- 189
Hi Beau,
It could still be a semi-broken cable between the starter and the alternator, this would mean that the cable wouldn't be able to supply the current to charge the battery and so the battery would supply the electrical circuits in the whole car and so the voltage drops to 10.5V. From what you've said my best guess would still be that it's at fault.
Can you check the voltage at the alternator when the car is running. If it's at 14 odd volts you've found your fault - it's the charge cable....
Hope you get it solved soon,
Steve
It could still be a semi-broken cable between the starter and the alternator, this would mean that the cable wouldn't be able to supply the current to charge the battery and so the battery would supply the electrical circuits in the whole car and so the voltage drops to 10.5V. From what you've said my best guess would still be that it's at fault.
Can you check the voltage at the alternator when the car is running. If it's at 14 odd volts you've found your fault - it's the charge cable....
Hope you get it solved soon,
Steve
i havent measured direct from the alternator when running yet, because its somewhat hard to get to once the pipes are back in place to run it, but its getting the same voltage at the alternator as it is at the battery while not running, so im sure if it was charging it would show something at the battery end, the dash gauge is showing nothing too and that is measured straight from the alternator.
yes
yes
ok, i am getting somewhere now, i wont go into it until its actually all fixed, then il explain all lol.
but i need to know, fuses.
fuses found in passenger foot well, next to battery, under bonnet on the offside edge (under black cover), under bonnet on the rear nearside (under black cover)
any more?
but i need to know, fuses.
fuses found in passenger foot well, next to battery, under bonnet on the offside edge (under black cover), under bonnet on the rear nearside (under black cover)
any more?
fixed!
alternator charge output on load is slightly low, but il check it again tomorrow, but right now getting 14.2 volts with no electrics on, and 13.2 with electrics on.
the story:
suddenly stopped charging, i checked the wiring, all ok, so bought a second hand tested alternator, fitted it, still no charge, so went back to the wiring and re-checked, confirmed again all ok, hmmmmm so i decided to send both alternators away to be bench tested, both failed, no charge! so had the second hand unit repaired (looks like it got damaged in the post) so it was re- bench tested confirmed ok, re-fitted and still no charge! so re-checked the wiring again! this time the igntion live in the 3 pin plug wasnt working, i couldnt find a fuse anywhere for this, so i will have to get this sorted by someone who knows whats what, for now so i re-wired a new seperate fused ignition live in, and its now working perfect.
alternator charge output on load is slightly low, but il check it again tomorrow, but right now getting 14.2 volts with no electrics on, and 13.2 with electrics on.
the story:
suddenly stopped charging, i checked the wiring, all ok, so bought a second hand tested alternator, fitted it, still no charge, so went back to the wiring and re-checked, confirmed again all ok, hmmmmm so i decided to send both alternators away to be bench tested, both failed, no charge! so had the second hand unit repaired (looks like it got damaged in the post) so it was re- bench tested confirmed ok, re-fitted and still no charge! so re-checked the wiring again! this time the igntion live in the 3 pin plug wasnt working, i couldnt find a fuse anywhere for this, so i will have to get this sorted by someone who knows whats what, for now so i re-wired a new seperate fused ignition live in, and its now working perfect.
im over the moon now, so happy, its actually done some good being maser less for a several weeks, its shown me how much i love the car! before this i was on the verge of selling it, but i absolutely love it now its wierd, the driving experience compared to my nissan is so different, and i just cant believe how smooth the power is in the maserati
its wierd, the driving experience compared to my nissan is so different, and i just cant believe how smooth the power is in the maseratiI would like to come back to the jump start issue:
I found two ways Maserati suggest how to connect the additional Batterie. In user Manual its just both Batteries + to + , - to - , but in Workshop Manual at least the - is connectd to the engine Block of the car with the flat Batterie
so at least here we have a lower cable resistance for the "-" from starter motor to good batterie. (maybe the better point to connect the "+" would be the base "+" which is located below the non-drivers foot but which is not so simple to access)
I found two ways Maserati suggest how to connect the additional Batterie. In user Manual its just both Batteries + to + , - to - , but in Workshop Manual at least the - is connectd to the engine Block of the car with the flat Batterie
so at least here we have a lower cable resistance for the "-" from starter motor to good batterie. (maybe the better point to connect the "+" would be the base "+" which is located below the non-drivers foot but which is not so simple to access)
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I checked the wiring diagramm and the "ignition" pin at the alternator isn`t fuse protected in the line comming from the ignition switch, but the 12 V from batterie going to ignition switch is protected in the power switch box by an 30 A fuse (Ignition and anti theft)
it could be a broken wire/plug because i removed and re-fitted the alternator about 10 times so could of damaged it somehow