2003 Spyder- Test drove it, now some questions?

[Kartherma]

Hi all,
I am new to board and realized some of this may have been addressed but I've searched and couldn't find much on one issue.

I've set my sights on a 2003 Spyder with ~30,000 miles. If I buy, it will be about xxxK USD. (Seems that is within reason for cars in the US appear to be going for about xxxK give or take. Not that it matters much, I might be obsessed now...)

Anyways, the manual clutch.
I drive a japanese sports car and the clutch begins to grab much closer to the floor than the Mas does. If you imagine pushing the clutch down, as you release it the Mas clutch begins to transfer load to the wheels at about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way from the floor where my car does this about 1/3 to 1/4 away from the floor.

I felt like a complete ******* driving it as my go pedal/clutch pedal timing felt off and I felt like I was revving the engine high as heck just to get the car moving.

I'd like to hear that this is just a 'get used to the different set up' type discussion, but I fear it might be more like clutch work is on the horizon type warnings.
Is there an adjustment on the clutch pedal like my old cars (cables stretch, etc. and needs tightening)

Also, the steering wheel air bag cover is bubbling and it looks like the top of the covering on the passenger airbag has pulled out at the top. Both seemed very cosmetic to me, and I saw a post here about recovering the driver air bag. Should be no issue, but any warnings you guys might have for me on that?

Finally, all the buttons in the center console look like the Hawaii sun took on some chocolates. The buttons are essentially unreadable and some look melted a bit. I saw on maser-life a member did some restoration work on buttons so I wasn't overly shocked when I saw this.

Thoughts on these things?

Thanks!
Curtis

Oh, this is a black on black with black top car. Rims have some curb rash and there are several spots that need attention in the paint. Headlight covers are foggy- but not too bad. Leather is nice and belts retract. All items I am ready, willing, and able to attack myself.

 

[zagatoes30]

Welcome to the forum. I have a CC Spyder so can't comment on the clutch feel as I have not driven many manuals.

However the buttons you mention do have a habit of fading and getting a sticky texture, there is a member on here who is US based I believe who refurbishes these and he sells them as a complete set. I think last time I looked he had a couple of sets available. Steering wheels can also show signs of wear but once again these can be replaced or refurbished by a number of specialists,

 

[CatmanV2]

Welcome. Buttons can be comparatively easily sorted. They all do it. For a complete solution, contact Lorenzo either on here or the Maserati Life board.

Airbags. Yep They all do that too. Glue is not the best. Simple to fix

As for the clutch it simply sounds like you're not used to is. When I drove my CC far more than Mrs Catman's 3 pedal Alfa, I use to make a total pig's ear of it when I *did* drive.

C

 

[Kartherma]

Thank you all for the support.
I am all but locked and loaded to buy the car. I have all financials set, now just need to actually do the transaction.

First up will probably be some cosmetic stuff on the paint (13 year old black paint shows some spots that I think can be buffed out- and if not, more work but do-able...).

How does the $xxxK USD price settle with you guys? (not that it really matters, I am 99% sure I will buy it this week at that price anyways...)

 

[hladun]

I have a 2002 Spyder manual trans. The clutch is self-adjusting and the release point is about where you describe. The point is a function of the TOB hydraulics and clutch fingers so it's not adjustable. I've never had problems and the Maser setup allows you shift cleanly with less pedal travel. You don't floor the clutch pedal you pump and shift. It's not a Honda/Toyota 2 finger clutch/transmission but remember it's built for 400 hp and it's a rear transmission so it has to syncro the drive shaft as well.

I drive (not show) my car so I've just touched up the buttons with flat black paint. If you get your buttons redone make sure you find out if the labels are only stuck on. If so your buttons won't light up at night which was more important to me.

That said it's a great car and the bargain supercar of a lifetime.

 

[Kartherma]

Gotta make room for my new ride...
Step one- sell off one of my fleet.
Step two (optional but desired)- sell off a second.

Finances in order. Verbal agreements made with seller. He is headed off island for a week and when he returns...

She's coming home with me!


Now for some curious questions- curb rash on rims: I am comfortable with fixing that but also curious about which sorts of rim setups folks might have done that may add to the overall look of the car?

 

[FIFTY]

I have a manual coupe and the clutch biting point on mine is also about 2/3 - 3/4 to the top. Not sure if that's normal though as the specialist marked it as having a high bite point on the inspection. Clutch doesn't slip but it does make a small squeek when pulling away with haste when the clutch/gear box is cold.

Didn't know you could pump the clutch I even though I have long lend the clutch throw is quite long so if you can indeed pump the clutch let's say to 1/4 - 1/3 from the floor and shift without causing any damage then it will make for a more enjoyable shift. But I always floor the clutch during shifts

 

[ANY]

Interesting to read about the clutch issue. Not so many manual cars around.
I had exactly the same experience on my GT and it annoyed me allot. I first thought it was wrong assembled or something as the upper position of the pedal was above the brake pedal.
What I did was to buy a new pedal cylinder (it was not expensive and was a redundancy if my modification shouldn't work out) and then I cut the piston rod about 8-10 mm and welded it together again. I had to do quick spot welds while trying to cool the housing to not melt the seals as I didn't manage to open the cylinder. I was also considering an adjustable nut solution but there was not room enough.
I'm very happy with the result and it has worked very well now for 10 years / 50000 km. It has the same nice engage point as my Alfas had, but it is necessary to have the pedal to the floor when shifting. The most tricky part was to bleed the system properly.

 

[Kartherma]

ANY, thanks for that.
Confirms my suspicions and thoughts on the subject. I don't think I am equipped well enough to take on a modification like that for now (I have access to shop/tools but will be focused on some of the other things first...)

I do appreciate everyone's input on the clutch engagement question- it eases my mind a bit on this purchase.

 

[Timm]

Hi,

same with mine. My clutch engages late, about 2/3 or 3/4 to the top. So, that seems to be very normal.

Just to ease your mind, Kartherma.

 

[Kartherma]

Thanks Timm!