Classic car in London

rivarama

Member
Messages
1,102
Quick Q
I am about to buy an old Land Rover series. The one I am looking at is over 40 years old and is MOT and road tax exempt.
I read that over 40 classics aren’t subject to congestion charge or Ulez. But is that also valid for diesel car or just petrol?
Thanks
Paul
 

Gazcw

Member
Messages
7,785
A
Quick Q
I am about to buy an old Land Rover series. The one I am looking at is over 40 years old and is MOT and road tax exempt.
I read that over 40 classics aren’t subject to congestion charge or Ulez. But is that also valid for diesel car or just petrol?
Thanks
Paul
All with historic vehicle tax class. If you have the reg you can check on tfl.
 

rivarama

Member
Messages
1,102
If you need any help let me know, I’ve done a little bit of work on them
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View attachment 80318
superb !!
I am looking to buy a reasonably cheap series 3 that has a 200tdi engine fitted (sacrilege?) - i found one from a Rolls Royce engineer that’s been doing pretty much everything mechanically on it. No beauty queen but honest car w solid chassis and bulkhead.
i love the idea of a 2.25 petrol but 45mph top speed might be a bit tricky.
The only thing that needs attention on the car is a leaky gearbox... I am hoping it’s nothing £500 can’t fix.
I was looking at a super 1959 Series 2, but the Diesel engine put me off... and that non sync gearbox might make it difficult if I want to use the car to commute every once in a while
 

Gazcw

Member
Messages
7,785
That’s interesting, I never read the guidance just popped my reg number in, will of away and do some more digging.
Just checked all mine again. The mas and merc diesel exempt. The bmw 67 plate petrol is not. Wtf! Complete joke and if you want to challenge it have to register with a copy of v5c and certificate of conformity from the manufacturer. :mad:
 

Oneball

Member
Messages
11,129
superb !!
I am looking to buy a reasonably cheap series 3 that has a 200tdi engine fitted (sacrilege?) - i found one from a Rolls Royce engineer that’s been doing pretty much everything mechanically on it. No beauty queen but honest car w solid chassis and bulkhead.
i love the idea of a 2.25 petrol but 45mph top speed might be a bit tricky.
The only thing that needs attention on the car is a leaky gearbox... I am hoping it’s nothing £500 can’t fix.
I was looking at a super 1959 Series 2, but the Diesel engine put me off... and that non sync gearbox might make it difficult if I want to use the car to commute every once in a while

Non synchro box isn’t that hard it’s just a different way of driving.

The 200tdi conversion was a pretty popular mod more power than the 2.25 petrol and more economical than the diesel. It’s a pretty rough engine though even for a diesel. Leaks can be due to missing the bottom flywheel housing bolts as they don’t bolt up directly. You want to make sure the glow plugs have been wired too.

Mine would sit at 55 with the 2.25 petrol. It’s a lovely smooth engine. TBH you probably don’t want to be going faster than that in a series LR. And hearing is more the limiting factor.

Series 3 aren’t supposed to be as well built as the earlier ones but that was 50 years ago now and I just think it’s a bit of BL snobbery.

watch for chassis rust though it can be tricky to see especially on the top of the chassis.

most problems are just from poor maintenance eg the heater.

Van tops have issues with condensation in cold weather.

steering gear needs to be in top notch condition

Go drive one see if you like it.
 

Oneball

Member
Messages
11,129
I checked that ‘59 series 2 and I got the same. Can’t be right as reading the details of the law seems to infer all car registered before April 8th 1979 should be free of ULEZ

I think you’ve hit the nail on the head. They’ve based it on registration date. So it may be a 1964 or 1959 but if it was registered in 2002 it’s showing as not exempt. My 60s Mini does the same.
 

rivarama

Member
Messages
1,102
Non synchro box isn’t that hard it’s just a different way of driving.

The 200tdi conversion was a pretty popular mod more power than the 2.25 petrol and more economical than the diesel. It’s a pretty rough engine though even for a diesel. Leaks can be due to missing the bottom flywheel housing bolts as they don’t bolt up directly. You want to make sure the glow plugs have been wired too.

Mine would sit at 55 with the 2.25 petrol. It’s a lovely smooth engine. TBH you probably don’t want to be going faster than that in a series LR. And hearing is more the limiting factor.

Series 3 aren’t supposed to be as well built as the earlier ones but that was 50 years ago now and I just think it’s a bit of BL snobbery.

watch for chassis rust though it can be tricky to see especially on the top of the chassis.

most problems are just from poor maintenance eg the heater.

Van tops have issues with condensation in cold weather.

steering gear needs to be in top notch condition

Go drive one see if you like it.

Thanks - chassis and BH look very clean on the one I am looking at:


I would change the side panels to fit windows (should find some used ones for £100 or so) and replace back seats w bench or dicky seats - hoping £500 all in.

As to the leak - I am lead to think that all LR series have some level of oil leak... is that not the case?

I have been also looking at a superb original condition station wagon from John Brown, but given that the car will sleep outside and it’s my first LR, I am not sure I am ready to spend £15k on a 5th car just yet

 

Oneball

Member
Messages
11,129
I reckon they leak less oil than a mini but more than a Beetle. You just want to check it’s not a nasty leak. Have a look at the 200tdi conversions to see the box to engine bolts. Mine never leaked unless you parked it up hill then you’d get a little drop out of the gearbox.

that series 3 has been painted with a roller so need to see what that’s like. Also parabolic springs aren’t to everyone’s liking. I find they’re too wallowy

The hard tops get condensation as they’re unlined. That’s the advantage of a station wagon. Although more windows means more leaks. You win some you lose some! You can cut windows into the standard hardtop. No need to buy sides. Budget for seat belts.

Check for rust in the rad panel and biotin of doors too. The frame is steel. This is the chassis of a 30000 mile one where mud has got trapped between chassis and floor. The bottom of the chassis was perfect.

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