Underbody maintenance, lanoguard, chassis protection

strictly

strictly

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I just thought I would share my experience of lanoguard on the underneath of my granturismo.

The purpose is to seal the surface to ensure rust cannot take hold or get worse.

What I liked about lanoguard is
  1. is that it can basically go on anything like plastics and rubbers without worry.
  2. its's heat resistant to 450 C
  3. It dries clear
  4. It is very easy to apply
  5. It is non toxic
I also used a bilt hamber s50 cavity wax which Is brown and also of a lanolin base. In hindsight, using the 360 cavity wax applicator wand you can buy from lanoguard would have achieved similar results and looked better. S50 however is a well known and tested product.

A month from application I can say

  • Both products were easy to apply
  • There is still a slight sheep smell but I only notice it in my garage
  • The coating Is tacky and Will attract dirt but that dosent bother me.
  • I fully expect to recoat every 6 to 12 months, but its low prep and quick to do.
Overall I'm very happy and no longer mind my car getting wet, if I get caught in the rain, knowing I have slowed any rust down, and can still see it.

I specifically did not use a rust converter so that the products could really soak in. Scratch the surface of a rust converted product and you will see they don't really sort the problem.

Now for some pictures.
 

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In case your wondering, lanoguard essentially comes as two parts.
  1. A grease
  2. A liquid
You use the grease on seams and rust, on the first day it goes almost bright yellow but then dries much clearer. The liquid is a diluted version of the grease. It goes on clear and dries clear although road debris will stick to it....but I'm not fussed about that. I will take a picture in 3 to 6 months for comparison
 
I coated my wife's MX-5 with Lanoguard before the winter. Not as neat a job as you've done, more of a quick power wash the underside (including wheels off) then lay under the car on jacks and spray on the liquid (didn't do the grease) paying particular attention to the nooks and cranny's. The sheep smell was gone within the week, I plan to redo probably each autumn, car is used daily, I guess I'll know if it was worth it in a few years time!
 
Nice, we're in the club. I actually regret not powerwashing, as because I didn't i, had to scrub the entire underside by hand! I only learned of the power wash trick after.

You've done one better than me, the wife's car dosent even get a look in. Only joking I also plan to do all of my household cars at some point.

I think it will be good. The main thing is to not expect longitivity. I think yearly top ups are a guaranteed requirement and maybe even every 9 months. Like you
...I guess we will find out!
 
I've bought it but not bought ramps, or axle stands so not done it yet. But uts good weather,
 
drellis said:
I've bought it but not bought ramps, or axle stands so not done it yet. But uts good weather,
Click to expand...
In that case when you have everything but a few days before you want to start, find a valeter that has one of those pressure washers that rotates underneath. That will save any hand cleaning, or minimise it

I actually took my wheel arch liners off and even the various crash boxes in the front arches. After cleaning, I greased the inner arches where the wheel arch liner rubs against inner arch. Rust in this area on most cars is a combination of mud or the wheel arch liner rubbing
 
Interesting I hadn't seen that one. I think we are going to have to turn this into a 10 to 15 year thread where we try all the products, as there are others like fluidfilm, buzzweld, corroheat, etc! I decided there were so many I just had to pick one to get going and try others in time.

One thing I liked about lanoguard is it's non flammable, so while it will burn off the exhaust it should at least protect the heat shields and hangers. You don't need to worry about getting it on the exhaust. Same for the moto grease.

The lanoclear/lanoblack is flammable, so that would require more care with application.

I'm not sure why their product is flammable...either they add a spirit/solvent or another reason. I'm also not sure if it remains flammable or only during drying, a bit like a paint which is only flammable while drying. Someone would have to ask the sellers that question...
 

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I'm in the middle of doing my four corners over the winter.

Glad I started. My front left arch had this black sound proofing (middle right of pic) which I had to cut in half in order to remove it from behind two brake lines. It was filled with water (even though I never drive it in the rain). So I have rubbed the rust down and treated it. Then Etch primer and Black Stone chip followed by Lanoguard.
I have the black box sections in Electrolysis for a week. The front one was in a very poor state as it takes all the water that comes in from the front air vent (only on the mk1)
I would recommend everyone check theirs as it had caused the paint to blister. I have caught it in time but what a useless material to use in this area.
It is a sponge place in an enclosed alcove in the wheel arch................what could possible go wrong?

Also,I never realised it was made from Sheep's Lanolin and was totally unprepared for the "farmyard smell" as I told my wife it was.
Looked nice after I painted it....now to ruin that look with the Lanoguard :rolleyes:IMG_20241011_094038.jpgIMG_20241015_115838.jpg
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Looking good! Nice to see a before during and after!

Those black box section are cheap if you need to replace. Like you I have just cleaned up.

I agree it's a shame to put something over the stone chip, your last picture looks ace....but needs must, it will work as a sacrificial layer.

The smell goes away after a while but for me it was 3 or maybe 4 months, although much reduced after a month

Don't forget to cavity wax. You can use lanoguard for that. You need the lances, spray inside every box section on the body, including the subframes.

I used bilt hamber s50 in an aerosol with lance, but the lanoguard being clear would look better, as the brown does ooz out. That said I'm sure the S50 is the better product, as it has outstanding salt spray results, but no proof there.

On the lanoguard grease, I smeered this along the inside of the outer wing where the inner wheel meets. You often see bubbling on cars there and apparently it is the wheel arch rubbing that causes it.

The black rubber bit deep inside each wing....they must get wet from the inner wing vents, those 3 vents behind the front wheel. Do you think we can blank then off? As like you say they do absorb water
 
I am guessing that given the lanoguard is a “spray it all over” type product there could be the added benefit of the protection of various fixings / nuts bolts, threads etc that may help maintenance/ removal in the future.
 
Scaf said:
I am guessing that given the lanoguard is a “spray it all over” type product there could be the added benefit of the protection of various fixings / nuts bolts, threads etc that may help maintenance/ removal in the future.
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I do exactly that as if you need to undo the bolts etc a quick wire brushing and Voilà.
 
strictly said:
Looking good! Nice to see a before during and after!

Those black box section are cheap if you need to replace. Like you I have just cleaned up.

I agree it's a shame to put something over the stone chip, your last picture looks ace....but needs must, it will work as a sacrificial layer.

The smell goes away after a while but for me it was 3 or maybe 4 months, although much reduced after a month

Don't forget to cavity wax. You can use lanoguard for that. You need the lances, spray inside every box section on the body, including the subframes.

I used bilt hamber s50 in an aerosol with lance, but the lanoguard being clear would look better, as the brown does ooz out. That said I'm sure the S50 is the better product, as it has outstanding salt spray results, but no proof there.

On the lanoguard grease, I smeered this along the inside of the outer wing where the inner wheel meets. You often see bubbling on cars there and apparently it is the wheel arch rubbing that causes it.

The black rubber bit deep inside each wing....they must get wet from the inner wing vents, those 3 vents behind the front wheel. Do you think we can blank then off? As like you say they do absorb water
Click to expand...
The sound proofing between the wing and vents stayed dry on mine. I "think" the bit in the corner sits on a flat shelf that acts like a pool if you jet wash it. The long one in the wing is suspended so any water will at least drain away. I'm going to block the front vents but not the side ones. I'm pretty sure they are needed to relieve the air pressure inside the arch at higher speeds (just me saying that). I won't be putting the other one back now I've seen how useless it is.
Great to see all others before and after for ideas etc. I'm thinking of getting some higher ramps in order to get underneath properly to jet wash and then do as you say with Lanoguard and the probes. I bought the kit over a year ago to do my Ford Transit but before I got a chance I lost her in Floods last year....not sure even the Lanoguard would have helped that one as the water came halfway up the seats!!!! Still....it made me buy the Maser:)
 
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