Todd's 2003 Spyder GT (re)build thread

[todd.the.submariner]

Hi,
I currently have my gearstick apart to refurb the gearknob.
Looking at the sleeve, it really only appears to be for the reverse lockout.

Would some pictures help or perhaps a film clip of the gearstick going through the different gears?

Andy.

Andy - that would be not only helpful, but fascinating to see in isolation

 

[Damichi]

I lately spent a lot of time to reverse engineer the shifter. I have it dismantled and can take a picture.

I assume the piece was worn out due to the shift linkage being out of alignment.

This tab serves two purposes:
It provides the correct position to the left for first and second gear. The box itself does not really have a detent in that direction like other transmissions have. When pulled, it also provides the reverse lockout function and keeps the lever in the left position while in reverse.

I found it very interning, that the left gate for first and second is much closer to the middle gate for 3 and 4 as the right gate for 5 and 6 is.
Basically reverse gate is just a little bit further out than 5 and 6.

Together with the missing detent, this makes adjusting the shifter linkage crucial. Basically the shifter works like a gated shifter for reverse, 1st and second.
A 3d part might not be an option IMHO, because the stress on that part is quite significant.

With the added play in the plastic shifter assembly, there were enough issues for me to make my own shifter mechanism that relocates the shifter also somewhat more to the driver and gets rid of all the play.

I might be able to make a 3d scan of the part in 3 weeks, when I return from my business trip to Japan.

Cheers,
Michael

 

[Andy4200]

Hopefully this link is to a quick YouTube vid of the gearshift. Probably won't win any awards.

Also some pics of the end of the sleeve.
Let me know if you need any more info.

Andy.

 

[todd.the.submariner]

I lately spent a lot of time to reverse engineer the shifter. I have it dismantled and can take a picture.

I assume the piece was worn out due to the shift linkage being out of alignment.

This tab serves two purposes:
It provides the correct position to the left for first and second gear. The box itself does not really have a detent in that direction like other transmissions have. When pulled, it also provides the reverse lockout function and keeps the lever in the left position while in reverse.

I found it very interning, that the left gate for first and second is much closer to the middle gate for 3 and 4 as the right gate for 5 and 6 is.
Basically reverse gate is just a little bit further out than 5 and 6.

Together with the missing detent, this makes adjusting the shifter linkage crucial. Basically the shifter works like a gated shifter for reverse, 1st and second.
A 3d part might not be an option IMHO, because the stress on that part is quite significant.

With the added play in the plastic shifter assembly, there were enough issues for me to make my own shifter mechanism that relocates the shifter also somewhat more to the driver and gets rid of all the play.

I might be able to make a 3d scan of the part in 3 weeks, when I return from my business trip to Japan.

Cheers,
Michael

Looking forward to seeing what you've done with the shifter mechanism!

After seeing @Andy4200 's video the purpose of this part is more apparent, as is your comment that adjusting the shifter linkage is important for 1st and 2nd to work properly. I have a *very* hard time getting the shifter in to 1st and 2nd, but curiously not all the time, just most of the time. Hopefully adjustment takes care of this.

If you do a 3D scan, that would enable us to remanufacture the part either from 3D printing, or using any other material. The scan of my part was necessarily incomplete, as the bottom of the part was in pieces, probably from the shifter being banged hard to the left to get into 1st and 2nd.

Enjoy Japan!

 

[todd.the.submariner]

Hopefully this link is to a quick YouTube vid of the gearshift. Probably won't win any awards.

Also some pics of the end of the sleeve.
Let me know if you need any more info.

Andy.

Andy - video might not win any official awards, but does with the "light bulb in my head" award now that I've seen the purpose of the plastic sleeve part, especially in determining the gating for 1st and 2nd gears.

Thanks for posting!

Once I get my daily driver out of the shop, I'll see what I can do in terms of adjusting the shifter to improve the 1st and 2nd gear accessibility. If that adjustment is something obvious on your fully exposed shifting mechanism, that would be both fascinating and helpful to see.

cheers,
Todd

 

[todd.the.submariner]

Lighting fault solved!
Symptoms:
1. With parking lights or headlights on, lighting fault indicator on the dash, all bulbs appeared to be operating fine.
2. Turn signals in both directions gave fast flashers, though again, all bulbs appeared to be working fine.
They weren't really working fine, it turns out.
I decided there must be a bad bulb in there somewhere, on both sides, so I started replacing all bulbs on one side of the car. No problem for the rear bulbs, a bit more complicated for the 3 bulb assembly beneath the headlights, but still achievable.

All bulbs replaced, still no change. (!)
But... I did notice something. In the 3 bulb assembly in the front of the car, the outermost bulb never seemed to come on, with turn signals, running lights, headlights, fog lights. Nothing. So, I phoned a friend. Texted my friend @DLax69 also here in the States, and asked if he would be so kind to see what his lights did with switches in different positions.
Once he sent pics, a very unlikely, but inescapable conclusion - someone had reattached the leads to the lights on both left and right signal assemblies incorrectly. Yes, a double fault. F.
Swapped the leads for the center and outer lights of the assembly of the left side of the car - and the turn signals now flashed slowly on the left, still fast on the right. Pulled the assembly on the right side, swapped those leads, and the fault on both sides cleared!
I've included a picture of the 3 bulb assembly, so that the color of the connectors can be seen for anyone who finds themselves reattaching these leads, and forgets which one goes to center, and which one goes to the outer bulb. Black connector goes to outer, grey connector goes to middle bulb.

That... was frustrating. And rewarding in the end. Here's to have friends with Maseratis!

 

[philw696]

Lighting fault solved!
Symptoms:
1. With parking lights or headlights on, lighting fault indicator on the dash, all bulbs appeared to be operating fine.
2. Turn signals in both directions gave fast flashers, though again, all bulbs appeared to be working fine.
They weren't really working fine, it turns out.
I decided there must be a bad bulb in there somewhere, on both sides, so I started replacing all bulbs on one side of the car. No problem for the rear bulbs, a bit more complicated for the 3 bulb assembly beneath the headlights, but still achievable.

All bulbs replaced, still no change. (!)
But... I did notice something. In the 3 bulb assembly in the front of the car, the outermost bulb never seemed to come on, with turn signals, running lights, headlights, fog lights. Nothing. So, I phoned a friend. Texted my friend @DLax69 also here in the States, and asked if he would be so kind to see what his lights did with switches in different positions.
Once he sent pics, a very unlikely, but inescapable conclusion - someone had reattached the leads to the lights on both left and right signal assemblies incorrectly. Yes, a double fault. F.
Swapped the leads for the center and outer lights of the assembly of the left side of the car - and the turn signals now flashed slowly on the left, still fast on the right. Pulled the assembly on the right side, swapped those leads, and the fault on both sides cleared!
I've included a picture of the 3 bulb assembly, so that the color of the connectors can be seen for anyone who finds themselves reattaching these leads, and forgets which one goes to center, and which one goes to the outer bulb. Black connector goes to outer, grey connector goes to middle bulb.

That... was frustrating. And rewarding in the end. Here's to have friends with Maseratis!

View attachment 120865

Tell Dennis we're missing his updates on here too.

 

[Tallman]

Lighting fault solved!
Symptoms:
1. With parking lights or headlights on, lighting fault indicator on the dash, all bulbs appeared to be operating fine.
2. Turn signals in both directions gave fast flashers, though again, all bulbs appeared to be working fine.
They weren't really working fine, it turns out.
I decided there must be a bad bulb in there somewhere, on both sides, so I started replacing all bulbs on one side of the car. No problem for the rear bulbs, a bit more complicated for the 3 bulb assembly beneath the headlights, but still achievable.

All bulbs replaced, still no change. (!)
But... I did notice something. In the 3 bulb assembly in the front of the car, the outermost bulb never seemed to come on, with turn signals, running lights, headlights, fog lights. Nothing. So, I phoned a friend. Texted my friend @DLax69 also here in the States, and asked if he would be so kind to see what his lights did with switches in different positions.
Once he sent pics, a very unlikely, but inescapable conclusion - someone had reattached the leads to the lights on both left and right signal assemblies incorrectly. Yes, a double fault. F.
Swapped the leads for the center and outer lights of the assembly of the left side of the car - and the turn signals now flashed slowly on the left, still fast on the right. Pulled the assembly on the right side, swapped those leads, and the fault on both sides cleared!
I've included a picture of the 3 bulb assembly, so that the color of the connectors can be seen for anyone who finds themselves reattaching these leads, and forgets which one goes to center, and which one goes to the outer bulb. Black connector goes to outer, grey connector goes to middle bulb.

That... was frustrating. And rewarding in the end. Here's to have friends with Maseratis!

View attachment 120865

Good to hear @DLax69 is still around, he suddenly disappeared here and you always wonder.

 

[todd.the.submariner]

Whilst waiting for parts to arrive, decided to take a crack at the sticky everything in the car. Being a California car, the stickiness is … extensive. Using 70% isopropyl alcohol, the 90% wasn’t needed. Using the eBay decals for the buttons, as I had them left over from my Coupe, never did sort its buttons. So easy to strip off the old coating from the buttons! Wish the vents were just as easy.

Winter to do list:
1. Finish the sticky removal
2. Heater core, when received from brassworks. While the dash is apart:
- replace dashboard clock, mine is stopped.
- remove and re glue leather on the steering wheel airbag to remove bubbles
- Loudlink Bluetooth install
- replace all instrument panel bulbs while it’s out
- install cup holder while seats are out
3. Fuel filler cap seal kit install to fix check engine light from vapor recovery system
4. Carpet and floor mat clean/repair/replace
5. Repaint rear bumper (some parking impacts )
6. Trunk lock inoperable
7. Rear glove box doesn’t shut properly
8. Replace elastic pouch behind seats
9. Replace wheels, the stock wheels are just atrocious and painful to look at

So much fun for one winter!

But for now, scrubbing the buttons, applying stickers, and painting while I wait …

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[zagatoes30]

Good news on the lights and glad to see you getting in there with the sticky button issue

 

[Black Mazerati]

You are really digging in! I'm curious what you plan to do for wheels? Are you considering those from Formula Dynamics? They are $200.00 off right now with their Christmas Special.

 

[DLax69]

Whilst waiting for parts to arrive, decided to take a crack at the sticky everything in the car. Being a California car, the stickiness is … extensive. Using 70% isopropyl alcohol, the 90% wasn’t needed. Using the eBay decals for the buttons, as I had them left over from my Coupe, never did sort its buttons. So easy to strip off the old coating from the buttons! Wish the vents were just as easy.

Winter to do list:
1. Finish the sticky removal
2. Heater core, when received from brassworks. While the dash is apart:
- replace dashboard clock, mine is stopped.
- remove and re glue leather on the steering wheel airbag to remove bubbles
- Loudlink Bluetooth install
- replace all instrument panel bulbs while it’s out
- install cup holder while seats are out
3. Fuel filler cap seal kit install to fix check engine light from vapor recovery system
4. Carpet and floor mat clean/repair/replace
5. Repaint rear bumper (some parking impacts )
6. Trunk lock inoperable
7. Rear glove box doesn’t shut properly
8. Replace elastic pouch behind seats
9. Replace wheels, the stock wheels are just atrocious and painful to look at

So much fun for one winter!

But for now, scrubbing the buttons, applying stickers, and painting while I wait …

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some overlap from my"done" and "to-do" lists, brother.

Also, found soaking the vents in straight Simple Green overnight was magical...

 

[Church of Noise]

Good to see some of the forum's most prolific leftpondians alive and kicking!

 

[todd.the.submariner]

You are really digging in! I'm curious what you plan to do for wheels? Are you considering those from Formula Dynamics? They are $200.00 off right now with their Christmas Special.

I am indeed looking at the FD wheels, or actually I like the optional wheels (like those pictured on my Coupe' in the profile pic. But those seem to be hard to come by, so FD wheels using the holiday discount are likely to make the list, budget allowing!

 

[todd.the.submariner]

Some overlap from my"done" and "to-do" lists, brother.

Also, found soaking the vents in straight Simple Green overnight was magical...

I tried Simple Green, as well as Goo Gone, but y'know, just dipping a cloth in 70% isopropyl, and all the black came off in 2-3 swipes, no soaking required.

 

[todd.the.submariner]

Here are the After pics of the sticky removal. I haven’t put a matte clear coat on yet, wanted to see first if the cheap eBay stickers allowed for night usage, and they did! Some touch up to do, but all in all, not bad for some stickers and a paint pen.

Thank heaven for that huge stockpile of alcohol we had leftover from COVID times.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[todd.the.submariner]

Next on the list - the trunk lock.
Symptoms: trunk opens fine with the remote/key and remote pushbutton in the glovebox, but the key doesn't open the trunk, which led to some fun times back when the battery died.... The trunk key didn't even seem to rotate in the cylinder.
Figured that, since the car was purchased with some rather new-looking keys, perhaps the trunk tumbler wasn't replaced? Well... off to the discover the truth.
Opened the trunk, and removed half of the (omfg I hate those things) trim attachment plastic plugs (not sure what they're formally called, but I call them a PITA). That gave me access to the lock cylinder and its attachment to the lock/unlock mechanism for the trunk. The lock cylinder has an adjustable cable attachment such that rotating the key pulls on the cable to release the lock. Inspection showed that the tumbler only rotates about 1/8 of a turn, and that it was definitely rotating, but that the cable was not being pulled due to poor adjustment.
Well... that's an easy fix. The adjustment is identical to adjusting cable operated caliper brakes on an old bicycle (like we had in the stone age). 10mm adjustment nut, and had to use pliers to hold the cable still as the nut wouldn't move smoothly without a wrench. Tightened it up - too tight, it turns out, and shutting the trunk would not result in the trunk latching. Backed it off a turn at a time until the trunk locked, then used the key, and Bob's your uncle!
I have PTSD from dealing with locks and immobilizers in my old Coupe, so I'd been putting off this troubleshooting out of dread. Turns out, it was an easy fix! Pics of the mechanism and adjustment to follow.

Winter to-do list is counting down!
1. Heater core, when received from brassworks. While the dash is apart:
- replace dashboard clock, mine is stopped. (new clock received, tested it while I had access during sticky removal, but didn't install)
- remove and re glue leather on the steering wheel airbag to remove bubbles
- Loudlink Bluetooth install
- replace all instrument panel bulbs while it’s out
- install cup holder while seats are out
2. Fuel filler cap seal kit install to fix check engine light from vapor recovery system
3. Carpet and floor mat clean/repair/replace
4. Repaint rear bumper (some parking impacts )
5. Rear glove box doesn’t shut properly
6. Replace elastic pouch behind seats
7. Replace wheels, the stock wheels are just atrocious and painful to look at. Probably FD, as I can't find a full set of the optional Maserati wheels I like from this era.

Cheers to all in the community - having active friends here, and the huge library of information on this site makes ownership of a diva of an Italian achievable for a mortal with limited time and resources.

 

[todd.the.submariner]

Trunk lock cable adjustment mechanism

Only had to remove about half of the dastardly plastic plugs to gain access

Cable and its adjustment but visible here. Adjust until the cable end is just barely making contact with the rotating pull connection on the lock tumbler.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DLax69]

Trunk lock cable adjustment mechanism

Only had to remove about half of the dastardly plastic plugs to gain access

Cable and its adjustment but visible here. Adjust until the cable end is just barely making contact with the rotating pull connection on the lock tumbler.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is on my list for the Spyder, as well...since the juice gremlins are still at it. Jumping the car from the hood terminals is awful.

 

[DLax69]

I am indeed looking at the FD wheels, or actually I like the optional wheels (like those pictured on my Coupe' in the profile pic. But those seem to be hard to come by, so FD wheels using the holiday discount are likely to make the list, budget allowing!

I was looking hard at those for the Coupe but ultimately went with the Eurospares GS repros...