Finally my turn to have some issues

Coxy13

Coxy13

Junior Member
Messages
120
G'day all,

I went to the official Maserati dealer yesterday to get a scan done on my car for some of the issue's I've started having and this is what I came out of it with

Failing Coil pack on cylinder 5 causing the car to run on 7 cylinders (45 pound each)
ASR/ABS ecu and scavenger tank faulty (1300 Pound)
LHF and RHF actuators for the suspension are broken (I was told that these were about 50-70 pound a year ago, now 600 pound!!!!!)
Drive by wires Potentiometers (Unsure if it's the two at the pedal end (480 pound each or the other end))
LHS O2 sensor
Air temp sensor faulty.

I have grabbed prices from Eurospares, but one price that concerns me is the price of the shock absorber actuators……how can they be 600 pound? I thought these were a problem area and are supposed to be an easy fix?

I am also curious to how you could find out exactly which potentiometer is out for the drive by wire……how do you trace them out?
 
If your actuators only have the gears broken (the most common fault) they can be rebuilt by this guy:
http://www.captainzcnc.com/

He will replace the broken plastic ones with metal parts.

Make sure the ABS ECU is really dead and not something else like a wheel sensor.

I believe there is also a solution for contactless throttle pots but I don't have the details
 
jluis said:
If your actuators only have the gears broken (the most common fault) they can be rebuilt by this guy:
http://www.captainzcnc.com/

He will replace the broken plastic ones with metal parts.

Make sure the ABS ECU is really dead and not something else like a wheel sensor.

I believe there is also a solution for contactless throttle pots but I don't have the details
Click to expand...

How do you know the ecu is dead? The thing flashes on and off intermittently which makes me think it may be alright. I would have thought if you were paying an official maserati dealership $210 an hour for a fault code read out (Which should take approx 10 mins) he could tell you it was def the ecu or not.

I will look into the shocks now, All the report says is "LHF and RHF actuator codes (RHF has broken gear actuator) Which really doesn't tell me anything…..but Im new at this
 
The fault code on the ABS unit is important.
If it's intermitent it's possible that it's a wheel sensor or phonic wheel.
For that price you should have a very detailed report with all the specific fault codes.

Anyway, if the ECU is really dead the warning light on the dashboard will always be lit and you will notice the absence of ABS function.
Simply slam the brakes at a moderate speed in a safe area to see if the brake is modulated or if the wheels lock.
 
You can test your actuators by removing them from the shock and see if the motor turns when you turn the key (during the cluster test stage)
If the motor turns then it's most likely just the plastic gear that is broken.
You will also want to check if the shock itself turns as they can in theory break the gears on the actuator if they lock up.

I suppose you have the "Error" light on the dashboard by now
 
jluis said:
The fault code on the ABS unit is important.
If it's intermitent it's possible that it's a wheel sensor or phonic wheel.
For that price you should have a very detailed report with all the specific fault codes.

Anyway, if the ECU is really dead the warning light on the dashboard will always be lit and you will notice the absence of ABS function.
Simply slam the brakes at a moderate speed in a safe area to see if the brake is modulated or if the wheels lock.
Click to expand...

I would have thought so, this is such a p**s weak report……it doesn't tell me anything. I also showed my indy mechanic who used to work for dealership for 15 years and he said he didn't understand most of it…..pretty poor

The ABS light is also active on the dash all the time. But I did notice yesterday that when I started it up and drove up the road, the lights went out and I had full asr/abs and also when I put my foot down in the wet, the traction control kicked in……I could turn the whole system off by the button and back on again. It lasted probably 5 mins then lost it all again. Seems to be when I am driving though…..little bumps knock it out, which makes me think it may be a sensor…..

jluis said:
You can test your actuators by removing them from the shock and see if the motor turns when you turn the key (during the cluster test stage)
If the motor turns then it's most likely just the plastic gear that is broken.
You will also want to check if the shock itself turns as they can in theory break the gears on the actuator if they lock up.

I suppose you have the "Error" light on the dashboard by now
Click to expand...

I have had Error for a while now unfortunately, might go down and have a bit of a fiddle in an hour or two. The whole "LHF and RHF actuator codes (RHF has actually broken a gear actuator)" doesn't tell me much apart from what has happened to the RHF side…….will go and see what the LHS is doing.

Thanks so much for the help! It's really appreciated let me tell you!
 
Don't stress too much about the actuators. They are a common fault and usualy cheap to fix.
Do focus on the ABS part because it's not uncommon for people to spend a lot of money replacing the ECU and or the hydraulic unit only to find out later the problem was somewhere else.

The phonic wheels and speed sensors are known to cause issues sometimes.
 
jluis said:
Don't stress too much about the actuators. They are a common fault and usualy cheap to fix.
Do focus on the ABS part because it's not uncommon for people to spend a lot of money replacing the ECU and or the hydraulic unit only to find out later the problem was somewhere else.

The phonic wheels and speed sensors are known to cause issues sometimes.
Click to expand...

I usually order my bits from Eurospares, but I notice that the actuators are 600 pound at the moment…..I though they were 60 pound……?

What is a Phonic wheel? How can you tell if it is a sensor or not? I have all the multimeters and kit so I can check stuff pretty easily
 
Do you have a copy of the service manual?
The ABS section details the inner workings of the system, component locations, wiring diagrams and replacement instructions.

As your problem is intermittent, it will be difficult to nail it.
When the issue is with a phonic wheel or speed sensor, that information will be displayed as a fault code to a scanner detailing which wheel has the issue.

Can you scan your SD2 report and put it here?
 
Coxy13 said:
I usually order my bits from Eurospares, but I notice that the actuators are 600 pound at the moment…..I though they were 60 pound……?
Click to expand...

unfortunately (at last for the last 3--4 years) they have ever been expensive and around 600 pounds or 800€ , If you are lucky you can get a used one 150..250€, if you are under pressure its 300€+ or 238 pounds
 
Coxy13 said:
Failing Coil pack on cylinder 5 causing the car to run on 7 cylinders (45 pound each)
A
Click to expand...
good deal for the dealer when replaycing all 8 in on go..one could start replacing the defective one and wait when or whether the others are ceasing, better invest in an OBD2/KWP2000 reader and read the codes on your own..its not a motor out job to replace one..so imho it make no sense to replace all in one go (especiall as 45 is the rate for a used one at eurospares so output should be similar to the others, if one assume that it degrades over time)
 
If the error was indeed "ECU Error" then your ABS ECU might be on its way out.
I would tell you to scan the codes again (I suppose the dealer reset them) in a few days to see what pops up again but at those prices ....

Maybe someone else that has gone trough a dealer SD2 diagnostic can correct me, but I believe you should get a report with error codes and the description of the code
"dbw potentiometers" seems to me like something the technician typed instead of the actual code/problem read by the tool because the SD2 tool clearly identifies which pot is having issues

On the coil pack issue you should be able to measure the resistance between the terminals of that specific coil pack and compare with the others to be sure it's a coil pack issue and not just the extension to the spark plug that is corroded.
Do you notice the car running on 7 cylinders only?
 
And SD2 report is titled "SISTEMA DIAGNOSI SD2 - MASERATI, it the has below this the name of the workshop and address. The next section should list the, examiner, vehicle details, Client Name, and any notes, it then has section titled INIEZIONE MARELLI 3200GT - ERRORS and in this section it lists the Errors and current status. On the report I had it showed Accelerator Potent 1 Below Min Threshold Error Counter 17, it then gave the status as stored This indicated that the Voltage of no one circuit on the throttle pot was below the minimum voltage and this was a stored error as it was not a current fault. I had the same fault stored for circuit no 2. These were faults when I first set up the contactorless pedal pot and I had set the minimum voltage 2 low. I had corrected this and hence the errors were show as stored. If anyone wants a copy of the SD2 report I can email it to them

Rex B

Manual 3200
 
Since this "diagnostic" has cost an arm and a leg at a main dealer and they did not provide the proper report, if I were the OP I would go there and demand the report.
Most likely they will no longer have it and in that case I would demand a new diagnostic with a proper report.

As Rex points out, there are stored fault codes and current fault codes.
This distinction is important when diagnosing.
 
You have the same issues as me at current Coxy.

The ABS unit on mine has been replaced but still has the error so I might have blown another one.

I have a spare pump just in case.

And the ERROR light is my front right actuator. When hot the light comes on but if I spray contact cleaner on it, it fixes for a short time. You can listen to each actuator with a stethoscope whilst someone turns the ignition on and will hear them turn and click during the initialisation/test procedure. At least you can pinpoint which one or if both are failing. They are a pig to get to as a few components needs removing. As someone has mentioned the plastic splines can be reconditioned or replaced with metal gears for a small fee.


I am going to send the car to emblem in the new year and have them sort both issues and also do the wheel alignment.
 
To be fair the report is simply them plugging in , scanning and adding a brief vague description of the codes stored and you have been raped of good money for it. Get yourself unidiag at the very least for the engine ECU faults

That lot is going to cost a fair few pennies to sort out in one hit.

I would start with coil pack and send the front right actuator away for refurb.

Then do the ABS ECU/ pump and upgrade your TB to a contactless one.
 
jluis said:
If the error was indeed "ECU Error" then your ABS ECU might be on its way out.
I would tell you to scan the codes again (I suppose the dealer reset them) in a few days to see what pops up again but at those prices ....

Maybe someone else that has gone trough a dealer SD2 diagnostic can correct me, but I believe you should get a report with error codes and the description of the code
"dbw potentiometers" seems to me like something the technician typed instead of the actual code/problem read by the tool because the SD2 tool clearly identifies which pot is having issues

On the coil pack issue you should be able to measure the resistance between the terminals of that specific coil pack and compare with the others to be sure it's a coil pack issue and not just the extension to the spark plug that is corroded.
Do you notice the car running on 7 cylinders only?
Click to expand...

I noticed the other week when we were having an italian tune drive day, that at high rpm it was hesitating like it wasn't getting spark and when I changed to the next gear, it was fine….just at high rpm that the issue starts. Also when its cold in the morning it gives a little issue, but a blip of the throttle usually fixes it.

jluis said:
Since this "diagnostic" has cost an arm and a leg at a main dealer and they did not provide the proper report, if I were the OP I would go there and demand the report.
Most likely they will no longer have it and in that case I would demand a new diagnostic with a proper report.

As Rex points out, there are stored fault codes and current fault codes.
This distinction is important when diagnosing.
Click to expand...

I asked the same question on Australian Maserati forum, the general consensus is the same as what you say, I didn't get a report that tells me anything…..I plan on going back in on monday and asking them what they actually can see and why I don't have that list. The Australian Maser forum suggested the same as what you suggested, but do a hard reset on the system, go for a good drive, and then get it re-read….that way I know what I am dealing with currently, and not old codes. If I can swing it so it's done for free I will be happy.

Contigo said:
You have the same issues as me at current Coxy.

The ABS unit on mine has been replaced but still has the error so I might have blown another one.

I have a spare pump just in case.

And the ERROR light is my front right actuator. When hot the light comes on but if I spray contact cleaner on it, it fixes for a short time. You can listen to each actuator with a stethoscope whilst someone turns the ignition on and will hear them turn and click during the initialisation/test procedure. At least you can pinpoint which one or if both are failing. They are a pig to get to as a few components needs removing. As someone has mentioned the plastic splines can be reconditioned or replaced with metal gears for a small fee.


I am going to send the car to emblem in the new year and have them sort both issues and also do the wheel alignment.
Click to expand...

So your issues aren't coming from a wheel sensor or Phonic wheel sensor?

Contigo said:
To be fair the report is simply them plugging in , scanning and adding a brief vague description of the codes stored and you have been raped of good money for it. Get yourself unidiag at the very least for the engine ECU faults

That lot is going to cost a fair few pennies to sort out in one hit.

I would start with coil pack and send the front right actuator away for refurb.

Then do the ABS ECU/ pump and upgrade your TB to a contactless one.
Click to expand...

I am going to have a fun filled week with playing with this thing each afternoon. We have had a "Crisis" at work which requires me to get on my bike and get to site now so I can't have a play today unfortunately but when I do get back I will keep everyone posted……thanks so much for all the help.

The contactless TB, is that the one in the engine bay? Do they do a contactless system for inside the car?
 
There are two parts to the Drive By Wire System. The throttle body which is at the engine end. The tracks wear inside and that causes all sorts of issues. The other end is the pedal end. This potentiometer translates your throttle input into a voltage and sends it to the ECU which in turn determines how much movement is in the butterfly of the throttle body thus increasing fueling/air etc...

Your diagnostic sheet mentions DBW issues but fails to say exactly what the errors are. Without specific codes it is a stab in the dark.
 
And yes the upgrade to contact less on the engine end throttle body is well worth the upgrade. There is also a pedal sensor which replaces the pedal potentiometer. Contact forum member Davy83 for more detailsz
 
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