Dodgy bolt... rear subframe fun...

[Jezbraker]

need to swap the rear brake pipe that runs over the gearbox... so had a go at dropping the rear end a few inches to make life a little simpler when (if ever) the new one rocks up...
It seems I'm not the first to drop it... and last time someone got a bit creative on one of the bolts

 

[davy83]

Aha - interesting. At least they didn't just leave on of them out!

 

[jasst]

need to swap the rear brake pipe that runs over the gearbox... so had a go at dropping the rear end a few inches to make life a little simpler when (if ever) the new one rocks up...
It seems I'm not the first to drop it... and last time someone got a bit creative on one of the bolts

View attachment 96908

You might be waiting a long time, a lot of the brake pipes are NLA, I ended up making most of mine.

 

[Ramp]

Is there a PDF procedure on how to drop or just lower the rear subframe ?

 

[Jezbraker]

think its covered in a couple of clutch swap articles/videos - but its really only the six bolts if your gonna just lower it in situ. once id faffed about getting clearance from my quickjacks it really was one of the simpler jobs. I just lowered it all on a jack about 6 inches and had loads of room to get the new line in. New bolt from eBay to replace the welded torx bolt above and all good.

 

[Ramp]

When you reinstall the rear subframe, do you notice any 'wiggle' room for the subframe to be shifted slightly from left to right ? Perhaps 1/4-1/2 inch ? There is an open issue being discussed where on some cars the left rear wheel hub can sit outboard about 1/4-1/2 inch more than the right which becomes an issue with spacers or wider wheels. Some have suggested that a tweak adjustment to the subframe mounts could resolve the issue.

 

[Jezbraker]

Have to say no, I didn't - but to be honest my box/subframe were sitting on a large bit of wood with a big jack under it and thus would be had to have noticed unless I'd been looking for it. I just supported, unbolted, lowered, (fitted new lines), jacked back up, and slid the bolts back in and tightened again. The bolts just went straight it without the need to wiggle or alike.

 

[TimR]

The built-in adjustment you cite is designed to allow alignment between the gearbox and torque tube with the engine AFAIK...At least, I remember reading such in a bulletin I think..
Im sure a time served tech can confirm whether I didnt just make that up...