COOLANT LOSS MASERATI 3200

[babel 101]

I have coolant loss Maserati 3200


I had to add 2,5 liters of de coolant. The interior of the car is very dry (driver / passenger)
The cause may be from the water pump but I have not seen refigerent signals on the ground
Another cause could be lost water admission area, this cause has been named in this forum

in another maserati forum I found this (http://www.maserati-alfieri.co.uk/alfieri06llllll.htm)

<<.."Dear Friend,

I think that some 3200 Gt/A owners will be pleased to understand why sometimes the starter of their cars fails at such low mileage.

In this case, I have this M.Y. 2000 3200 GTA, with just 41,000 kms on the clock, that developed some starting problems...

Of course that there are many reasons for a starter to fail. Wrong voltage, low battery... keeping the movement of the ignition key for more time that it is needed...

But in this case and, I'm sure that it isn't the only one, the reason was a small cooling liquid leak, just above the starter.

Of course, some work is required to reach the starter, but it is not that difficult with the right tools and patience. Usually the rear 'knock sensor' fails also, if the leak remains for long period, if this happens the 'CEL' is on and limp mode will be activated...

So, if you notice that your cooling liquid is not at the correct level, probably this could be one of the causes.

Hope this helps,

Miguel." ...>>

Maybe my diagnosis has relapse with the loss of water



I'm waiting for your help

thanks

 

[babel 101]

I add another image of the car knock sensor'

 

[SteveM]

There are a number of areas to look at to identify water loss:
1. Check all visible hoses to and from radiator and thermostat - this would be fairly obvious
2. Check if there is any evidence of blue glycol at nearside (alternator side) of radiator (there are 3 hose pipes that join the two cores of the radiator that often fail) - difficult to see unless you closely inspect radiator
3. Coolant hoses under intake plenum above starter as your image - again these fail due to heat
4. hose connection between engine block and turbos each side. As turbos very hot then water leaks tends to evaporate and harder to spot leak.
5. Internal heater matrix - usually wet in foot well or misting wind screen
I have found items 2, 3 and 4 at about 70,000 miles plus stuck thermostat so replaced all hoses with silicon water hoses from Roose International

 

[conaero]

I would say if you have a knock sensor fault the water leak is under the plenum and flooding the knock sensor beneath.

 

[babel 101]

[QUOTE = "SteveM, post: 662566, miembro: 876"] Hay una serie de áreas a considerar para identificar la pérdida de agua:
1. Revise todas las mangueras visibles desde y hacia el radiador y el termostato, esto sería bastante obvio
2. Verifique si hay evidencia de glicol azul en el lado cercano (lado del alternador) del radiador (hay 3 mangueras que unen los dos núcleos del radiador que a menudo fallan): es difícil de ver a menos que lo inspeccione detenidamente
3. Mangueras de refrigerante debajo del pleno de admisión por encima del motor de arranque como su imagen: nuevamente, estas fallan debido al calor
4. Conexión de la manguera entre el bloque del motor y los turbos a cada lado. Como los turbos están muy calientes, las fugas de agua tienden a evaporarse y son más difíciles de detectar.
5. Matriz interna del calentador: generalmente húmeda en el pozo o en la brisa del viento.
He encontrado los artículos 2, 3 y 4 a aproximadamente 70,000 millas más el termostato atascado, así que reemplace todas las mangueras con mangueras de agua de silicona de Roose International [/ QUOTE]

Thanks very much

 

[allandwf]

Another area to look is at the rear of the engine where the pipes run along the bulkhead. That is where my turbo coolant hose leaked from.

 

[babel 101]

I would say if you have a knock sensor fault the water leak is under the plenum and flooding the knock sensor beneath.

this could be one of the options along with those indicated by Steve

 

[SteveM]

The knock sensor failure would be a symptom of item 3 on my list and obvious item to check if you have fault signal. You would need to remove hoses to get to replace two knock sensors

Alan's suggestion would be new item 6 where hoses connect from water manifold under plenum and connect to heater matrix through bulkhead

My turbo connections are short pipes 15 -20 cm between engine block and turbo. The hose connection to turbo goes brittle due to heat.

 

[babel 101]

Gracias Alan, Steve
Gracias a todos

 

[babel 101]

The knock sensor failure would be a symptom of item 3 on my list and obvious item to check if you have fault signal. You would need to remove hoses to get to replace two knock sensors

Alan's suggestion would be new item 6 where hoses connect from water manifold under plenum and connect to heater matrix through bulkhead

My turbo connections are short pipes 15 -20 cm between engine block and turbo. The hose connection to turbo goes brittle due to heat.

One question

Data my maserati
Years : 1999
Diagnosis tool: 3 Pin

My maserati 3200.... is a S1 or S2?

 

[SteveM]

Probably series 1 but check against chassis number. Another check is look for silver turbo pop off valves. If you have two high just behind radiator then series 2. I think water cooling pipes same for both series but it does affect air side hoses between intercooler and y piece in front of throttle body.

 

[babel 101]

Finalmente, la pérdida de coolant se debió a la tubería número 46.

 

[babel 101]

También compraré el kit de las tuberías.

 

[SteveM]

Well of all the pipes to go that is probably one of the easiest to fix. Check your thermostat is opening/closing correctly as they have a habit of sticking and they are still a relatively cheap item to replace. However if you are in Spain then if it is stuck open it wont be such an issue

It will not fix your knock sensor(s) but if you buy the kit then you have the pipes ready for when you change the sensors later. If it is a winter project then it will be worth replacing all the pipes at one time as you don't want to keep draining and refilling with antifreeze (Paraflu Blue)

I think the change to series 2 is after chassis number 4783

 

[Lozzer]

I think the change to series 2 is after chassis number 4783

You are better of looking at the engine to determine S1 or 2, the cut off for the chassis no's are a bit of a red herring, mine is 3705 and is a series 2 car.

 

[babel 101]

[QUOTE = "SteveM, post: 662892, miembro: 876"] Bueno, de todas las canalizaciones por recorrer, probablemente sea una de las más fáciles de arreglar. Verifique que su termostato se abra / cierre correctamente, ya que tienen la costumbre de pegar y aún son un artículo más barato para reemplazar. Sin embargo, no será un problema.
Sí ... el termostato es nuevo (quitar 18 de julio)

No repare su (s) sensor (es) de detonación, pero si compra el kit, tendrá los tubos listos para cuando cambie los sensores más tarde. Si se trata de un proyecto de invierno, se eliminan las condiciones de una sola vez, se desactiva y se rellena con anticongelante (Paraflu Blue).
Este será mi próximo proyecto. En Córdoba el invierno es muy soft. Hoy en la ciudad de fue 17¤C (buena temperatura)

Creo que el cambio a la serie 2 es posterior al número de chasis 4783
muchas gracias [/ CITA]