ABS unavailable MSP unavailable ASR unavailable - Go to dealer

I had it with two ignition coils going, then again with clutch position sensor going, then one spurious one after when car was searched at Holyhead after I ragged it massively to get there and I had to lift the bonnet, nowt since touch wood...

I think those lights come on when it's confused about what's broken....
 
smiffywhu said:
Afternoon gents, I now have this issue too. I'm in Lowestoft and closest main dealer is 50 miles away in Colchester, with our awful roads it'll feel like 150 miles.

Upon google search I can't find a Maserati specialist closer, does anyone know of one? Or better still can anyone point me in the right direction for an OBD2 reader, the universal ones don't fit my connector.
Click to expand...
smiffywhu said:
The battery terminal connectors are pants but I've had the car almost a year now so highly unlikely it's that.
Click to expand...

Have you got a new battery yet? ;)
Or disconnected it, cleaned up your terminals and given it a good overnight charge since you got this new problem?
This, and your last parking brake problem, can point to battery issues, as suggested before. At least its a cheap first step to try.
A couple of months ago, I was away for 3 weeks and forgot to put the car on the trickle charger. I also left my OBD2 dongle plugged in which is always powered.
When I got home and started the car (yes it started fine) the Parking brake was stuck on. I stopped and started it a few times, no joy. Disconnected the battery for 10 mins, reconnected, started and all was ok.
Next day, started fine but the car and had all the above lights on!
I disconnected the battery and put it on charge overnight. Never had a problem since.

Start with your 'Pants' terminals. Try a proper overnight charge, then a new battery before you go spending money at garages/dealers.
 
Firstly thanks so much for all your replies, I genuinely am overwhelmed with the time and effort you lads (and lasses?) have put into trying to help me.

Also I apologise to the original OP for gatecrashing but this thread looked dead and the best way for me to put my issue across as well as putting some light on the matter for others in the future.

As per Sam, yesterday I disconnected battery - the terminal is just slid on top, (it's already maximum tightened so I need new connectors), started the car and and the lights remained. I drove off even with the parking brake "on". Once into "MC shift" all the lights went off other than the ones I've always had. I cleaned the car ( irrelevant I know but I was a lot happier with her by then), an hour later I started it to move into our car port, luckily no lights upon start. So I drove a mile and home and all was well.

I am now hopeful this is deffo battery (loose terminal) related - as Sam mentioned I've had parking brake issues before which a full charge solved.

Also, the day these lights all started the car wouldn't start at all - again, maybe due to the terminals not making connect suffientially.

I will report back on here if there are any further ongoing issues related to the said error codes. A massive +1 to checking battery etc when getting these codes before going to main dealer/specialist.
 
Definitely sounds like a loose battery terminal. Once, in the space of a mile I had transmission, ABS, traction control and power steering warning lights appear, all for the sake of quarter of a turn on the negative terminal. Once tightened they never reappeared.
 
smiffywhu said:
.......Also I apologise to the original OP for gatecrashing but this thread looked dead and the best way for me to put my issue across as well as putting some light on the matter for others in the future......
Click to expand...

Absolutely no apology needed, I think it is MUCH better when a similar problem occurs that you add to an existing thread rather than starting a new one.
 
We have the same issues with our 02 4200 spyder in that the ABS/ASR and once stopped or moving slowly the gearbox light comes on - except we have replaced the faulty wheel sensor and keep the battery on charge. (We also have a new clutch and flywheel). To make matters worse the diagnostics won’t read/find the ABS (and its not a machine fault as it will do on another 02 - apparently the 02 ABS system is different to that for an 03). Anyone any clues.
 
Washed car, went out for a drive and now I have MSp failure to go dealer. Steering feels tighter. No idea what the problem is. Turned car off for few mins and still same issue.

If I do a battery disconnect, do I disconnect the negative and give it 10 mins?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3033.jpeg
    IMG_3033.jpeg
    72.4 KB · Views: 5
ChrisQP09 said:
Washed car, went out for a drive and now I have MSp failure to go dealer. Steering feels tighter. No idea what the problem is. Turned car off for few mins and still same issue.

If I do a battery disconnect, do I disconnect the negative and give it 10 mins?
Click to expand...
Yes. Disconnect and go and have a brew. If it clears the fault. Then go for a italian tune up so the car can relearn your driving style.
 
I had ASR failure last year on my 4200. Would reset on ignition on and throw up the warning within half a mile.
Over winter layup it has mended itself, all on its own! :D
 
RoaryRati said:
We have the same issues with our 02 4200 spyder in that the ABS/ASR and once stopped or moving slowly the gearbox light comes on - except we have replaced the faulty wheel sensor and keep the battery on charge. (We also have a new clutch and flywheel). To make matters worse the diagnostics won’t read/find the ABS (and its not a machine fault as it will do on another 02 - apparently the 02 ABS system is different to that for an 03). Anyone any clues.
Click to expand...
Sounds like its not getting a reading from one of the abs sensors built into the hub at low speed but is from the other 3 so it throwing an inplausible signal.

The system self checks so if it then gets a good signal then it will clear the fault.

See if you can have somebody read the live data for all four sensors while the car is being driven.

Which diag machine are you using ?

On the face of the info you have i would check the wiring and connectors to the hubs for corrosion / damage and go from there.

While your there you can also try blowing compress air round the sensors incase there is any debris /corrosion affecting the signal at low speed.
 
Last edited:
ChrisQP09 said:
Washed car, went out for a drive and now I have MSp failure to go dealer. Steering feels tighter. No idea what the problem is. Turned car off for few mins and still same issue.

If I do a battery disconnect, do I disconnect the negative and give it 10 mins?
Click to expand...

Yes. But likely failing battery or wheel bearing. AP-200 will tell you if a bearing is on the way

C
 
Relevant to the point about cleaning - I but my bike back on the road last week and after MOT the ABS light flickered and stayed on - blasted the two areas with a hose and then after a few yards the fault cleared and has not returned. (Bike sits in a metalworking shop so maybe particles messed with the sensors.)
 
ChrisQP09 said:
Washed car, went out for a drive and now I have MSp failure to go dealer. Steering feels tighter. No idea what the problem is. Turned car off for few mins and still same issue.

If I do a battery disconnect, do I disconnect the negative and give it 10 mins?
Click to expand...
Did you pressure wash the arches, underneath etc?

Your most likely reason is either water ingress into a connector or low battery voltage

I dont think disconnecting the battery will make much difference.

To determine the fix you need to do one of two things

A. Connect your code reader, clear codes go for a drive and see what returns. Clear again and repeat

B. Put a multimeter on your battery but I prefer a battery monitor they are only £20 and do alot more than just provide battery voltage

======

If you keep getting a specific code come up it's good chance there is water ingress in the electrical connection or maybe the electrical sensor enclosure

=====

Ive never had low voltage from washing a car, but my valeter did completely flatten the battery when doing extended cleaning

P.s

If you dont own a code reader as you have an F1 car which sooner or later will need some extended obd work then I would recommend EasyMas obd. I haven't yet bought an autel ap 200. I do plan to buy one but I won't risk the ap200 with and writing to the F1 ecus
 
Does EasyMas work function ok on F1 system, if all i wanted was to clear code to see if they return?

I didnt pressure wash car, it was just a light hose pipe so very little pressure
 
ChrisQP09 said:
Does EasyMas work function ok on F1 system, if all i wanted was to clear code to see if they return?

I didnt pressure wash car, it was just a light hose pipe so very little pressure
Click to expand...
For clearing codes i think any obd tool is probably fine.The danger comes when writing to the ECUs.

To answer your question EasyMas works fantastic on the F1 system. Better than genuine maserati sd3 as its been proven safe for f1 gearbox relearn learns etc. You would need a laptop to use it. I love it because it's directly supported by Steve 4200 on this forum and one day im going to need his help!

For casual general use which can work with your phone especially given the cost the Autel ap200 comes recommended from many.

Going back to your problem. You first need to clear codes. Then see what comes back. Your next steps after ASR would be looking at your live wheel speeds. Both tools above can do that but I only currently know how to use EasyMas

The ASR I believe us either low battery or a wheel speed error. A battery monitor will check your battery. A obd tool will check codes and look at wheel speeds.
 
What would be a decent OBD tool to reset codes to start troubleshooting before I bring it to Main Stealer?

Edit: just noticed your recommendation for Autel ap200.

Also I had a wheel bearing hub replaced 3 years ago by MD so if its the same wheel, surely the part should be in warranty?
 
ChrisQP09 said:
What would be a decent OBD tool to reset codes to start troubleshooting before I bring it to Main Stealer?

Edit: just noticed your recommendation for Autel ap200.

Also I had a wheel bearing hub replaced 3 years ago by MD so if its the same wheel, surely the part should be in warranty?
Click to expand...
I think unlikely under warranty but you can ask @CatmanV2 can explain how to set up and use an Autel AP200 just buy the cheapest one you find from anywhere. Dont be fooled by the website names I did some research and concluded they are all grey imports. They are not officially imported into the UK by the actual main distributor.

Its possible it could be as simple as a corroded electrical connection so dont assume wheel bearing with integrated wheel bearing just yet.

@CatmanV2 can take over until you know how to clear codes ands look at your live speeds.

Once you notice a unusual speed on one particular corner then it's a case of verify the quality of the wiring from the speed sensor to the ecu. You would not want to drop £1000 or more on a wheel sensors only to find it was actually the wiring to the ecu. A check for corrosion and multimeter check is all you need to do. I plan to take it further and play with oscilloscope but im not needed to yet.

If you end up using the autel extensively in one session you would want the engine running or the battery hooked up to a ctek battery tender
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top