3200 Issues

[LDM 3200]

Well it was bound to happen!

After 3 years of joyful ownership with no issues.
A while back I had what I believed to be a starter motor issue on the 3200. The car started to turn over very slowly and then not at all, the battery was checked and seemed to be ok and everything suggested the starter. I decided to get it sorted at a friends garage - they do all sorts of work and I trust them completely.

During the swap they replaced items such as pipes etc and rectified a few poor workmanship things that had been carried out by previous owners / garages. However now everything is back together there are a few issues, the battery appears fine and turns the car over but the car does not always fire up. If a booster is added car starts. On check and start up there are no CEL's but car will not rev over 2000 and if you try will trigger the CEL.

The garage tried a few of its readers but could not get them to connect. I tried with the software on my lap top that I had previously used ok (although I seem to have lost my cable and so tried using the garages) and could not connect.

I am suspecting the dreaded throttle body or pedal could be at least partly to blame but am hesitant to order one without a better idea. Also everything was fine before the starter motor failed.

I guess I will need to order a new cable, any recommendations?

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[allandwf]

"Appears fine"? For the price of a new one, I would just change it, especially now the weathers getting colder. I would do that first.

 

[Trev Latter]

Have you tried another battery on it? Although you checked it and it was fine, it seems odd that it will only start with a boost. So far as the other issues are concerned, check the connectors to the TB, Pedal pot and ecu (behind carpet in footwell on offside). Where are you located?

edit:

Just had a thought...is your charging system working correctly? starting it up with the booster on a (possibly) slightly dodgy battery would probably throw the voltages all over the place once running if disconnected and the charge system is messing about.

 

[jluis]

Try it with another battery first.
Your garage should have a spare lying around that you can hook up to your car even without removing the old one (it's a 5min job)

If your car is OBD2 compliant, just buy a cheap bluetooth adapter and run torque on your mobile to get the trouble code reading.

Mine is a late 2001 model and this adapter works well with Torque on android (Won't work on the iphone, tough):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM327-OB...181107?hash=item1a05c894f3:g:OqUAAOSwqu9VU1AB

 

[StuartW]

I would certainly look at a new battery too - the 3200 is notoriously ******* batteries a new Bosch high spec battery would be my recommendation. Of course, this may not fix everything but would hopefully rectify your starting issues and then you could look at the other areas & plug it in for a diagnostic

 

[LDM 3200]

I know what you mean about battery - everything only went back together last night. I did all the checks on the battery when the starter first played up and garage also checked this morning, as you say for price its probably worth swapping & have said I'm happy for them to get one.

Just slightly concerned that all was fine before starter failed and now this, therefore wondered if I was missing something.

I'm in Bexleyheath.

 

[Trev Latter]

Knowing the inlet manifold has to come off to do the starter motor, I'd be checking the wiring/ plugs to the TB, but I'd still rule the battery out first. Shame you're not a bit closer as I have the software and leads here.

 

[jluis]

How is your idle when it starts?
Normal or misfiring?

As you took the manifold apart, you could have developed air leaks somewhere or fuel injector problems.
Make sure all injectors are wired and working and both rails have enough fuel pressure.

Also check if the TB is stuck or sticking when opened by hand (Engine and key off)
Another check you can do is, with the engine off but key in MAR position, press the acelerator and see if the butterfly opens and closes all the way.
Not sure if this test also works on autos but it does work on manuals.

 

[LDM 3200]

Cheers!

I have the software on a laptop but seem to have misplaced the lead, in the early days it was on a shelf but the car has been so reliable and never showing any CEL's till now that at some point it must have been "put away" for "safe Keeping"

 

[Contigo]

Battery first point of call, check voltage is 13.6V when running if not get rid of it.

Next check is all TB cables, take a voltage at the pedal output too. Should measure 350-700mv in idle position and 2.9V-3.4V at WOT or thereabouts.

My guess is your pedalpot is shot if it won't rev over a certain voltage. To fix it short term you could do the white to yellow bridge which will take an average of the two circtuits. The problem right now is that one of your potentiometers is dropping out of tolerance and putting the CEL on. Come see me and will diagnose it for you free of charge.

 

[LDM 3200]

Whats WOT?

Thanks for reply and offer!

 

[Contigo]

Wide Open Throttle ie foot pressed all the way down to the floor.

 

[LDM 3200]

Cheers - having a thick moment!

 

[jluis]

Battery first point of call, check voltage is 13.6V when running if not get rid of it.

Next check is all TB cables, take a voltage at the pedal output too. Should measure 350-700mv in idle position and 2.9V-3.4V at WOT or thereabouts.

My guess is your pedalpot is shot if it won't rev over a certain voltage. To fix it short term you could do the white to yellow bridge which will take an average of the two circtuits. The problem right now is that one of your potentiometers is dropping out of tolerance and putting the CEL on. Come see me and will diagnose it for you free of charge.

I disagree with the test method in the battery.
A battery that is shot and has a high internal resistance will display whatever voltage is put out by the alternator at its terminals.
A more accurate test is to measure current draw and voltage drop when cranking, but it's much easier to just put a new battery to test than to actually make the referred measurements.

A faulty tb (especially one that is sticking) will also cause the engine not to go over a certain range and then throw a CEL when the throttle is pushed further.
I have tb here with that problem.

 

[LDM 3200]

I think I will be sticking a new battery on it anyway.

Really pleased with the work they have done, just annoyed that this has happened now!
I will be checking the pedal as well.

 

[jluis]

Just remembered that knock sensors cause limp mode and CEL.
I wonder if they nicked one while in there

 

[LDM 3200]

I had dodgy Knock sensors when I bought the car, although they triggered a CEL all that seemed to happen was a reduction in power, this problem is a lack of revs (if that makes sense).

The only time I have experienced anything like this was when we went to carfest last year and while unpacking the car the battery went a bit flat - another reason to put a new battery in!

 

[beau]

If my battery is not fully charged it will turn over (turns over fast and sounds normal) but not start, jump started its then fine

I got a new Bosch battery from euro car parts, it is much bigger and more powerful than the old battery, it was only £60, it only just fits in the gap! iv had much fewer issues since fitting this battery

 

[Zombie]

Could be a few things my first bet would be the four vacuum tubes at the back of the plenum - if they are not in their correct position it can cause merry **** from my experience when one of them broke off!

 

[davy83]

There are two braided ground straps that are connected over the starter mounting bolts that earth the starter to the body, are you sure these were replaced? They fall off when you remove the starter and they are easy to miss, as they come up the side of the bell housing and are out of sight.