1994 Ghibli Purchase

[karozza]

Hi guys.

I'm very keen on buying a 94 Ghibli from Italy, so a 2.0 version. Is there anything out of the usual that I should look for in this model?

Apparently, although in very good condition, I have 2 issues I would like to solve.

The tool pieces are missing; are these available; are they the same as other Biturbo models?

More importantly, according to seller AC needs gas, but that to me means it's not working. So, what are common issues with AC that go wrong as I would definitely need repair. Again, do they match other cars so to source from alternative suppliers?

All the best.

 

[general_piffle]

Ghibli II ownership is sometimes a test of perseverance and patience. But a very fun and rewarding one nonetheless.

You will find yourself writing a ‘hit list’ of parts to find, while developing a contacts sheet from all around the world. Mine now covers the US, Holland, Germany, Italy and Japan.

Tools for the set won’t be easy to come by but you could get lucky. Someone like David Askew here in the UK ‘might’ be able to help.

With the air con the system might just need an overhaul. O-rings and other seals you can get as these are pretty generic. Mine wasn’t working and we found the expansion valve was full of crud that had built up over time. Once stripped, cleaned, new seals, and pressure tested, it was icy cold again.

 

[karozza]

Already asked David but didn't advise he had them.

So, you would say the AC is generally reliable?

 

[general_piffle]

Already asked David but didn't advise he had them.

So, you would say the AC is generally reliable?

Generally speaking, yes.

The main enemy of the Ghibli II is rust. There are a number of points to check:

Inside front grille frame, water can collect here leading to rust from the inside > out.

Base of A pillars where they join the main body of the car, difficult to check but look inside back of engine bay.

Bottom edge of boot door can also trap water, again difficult to check.

And of course usual points as for most cars like sills etc.

General rule of thumb, go for a well looked after car from a dry climate.

Let us know how you get on.

 

[Ewan]

My first Maser was a 1995 2.0 lt. Ghibli from Italy, that I bought from David Askew. He bought it in Turin and drove it back.
Nearly all the parts (and tools) are generic with other Masers of that bi-turbo period, so don’t worry about that. If it’s generally in good shape and not rusty, a little job such as fixing the AC shouldn’t put you off.
Best of luck!

 

[karozza]

Thanks for advice-appreciated.

That's why I'd like to buy an Italian car.

 

[Malcolm Pearce]

Hello, my first Maserati was a Ghibli II which I have owned for over 20 years. I've been pretty lucky with it with the only major expenses being a routine clutch replacement and new exhaust. Items especially headlights are had to come by so this needs to be taken into consideration. The thing I appreciate most is the size of the car especially compared to the GT. Good luck with your search.

 

[alpa]

Hi,
As already said the bottom of the A pillar: same problem on all biturbo up to QP4. The A pillar is in contact with the outside pannel and it always rusts. It's just a matter of time, at some point the paint will start making bubbles.
Same area: front fenders are made of two parts top and bottom. Rust where they join because the putty cracks.
And the main and real problem of all biturbo is the body part that holds the engine frame. Let's call it subframe. This subframe has a structural weakness just behind the end of the engine frame. As the frame is much stronger than this weak point the subframe breaks. So if when you drive you fill a float in the steering, especially when braking, then it might be a broke subframe.

It's not easy to inspect. I don't have a good picture. I'm attaching a picture of an opened subframe (it's all smashed there, it's a 222 but it's the same structure on ghibli and qp4). The frame is on the left, it ends in the firewall where you see a flat surface with a cross.

You would find a crack in the bottom curve of the opened part, it's 1-2 cm away from the end of the frame that is not in the picture.